LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

replaceing the seal for the water pump driveshaft help

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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 07:15 AM
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Post replaceing the seal for the water pump driveshaft help

My friend is trying to replace the seal(gasker) it goes on the waterpump driveshaft, and into the timing cover, he has ruined 6 gaskets. cant find the help in the haynes. Do you HAVE to take the timing cover off and put it on from that side?? Thanks for your help
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 07:43 AM
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Use an arrangement something like this or smooth up the drive coupler and use it to put the seal on. What you are trying to do, is protect the seal from the splines and the front edge of the drive.
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 08:10 AM
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What I did was actually made a plastic nylon tapered sleeve and as you pushed the seal on to the taper it would spread the seal so it could go over the shaft. Worked great!!
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 09:25 AM
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thanks. I love how you got a pic for everything. So what exactly is the seal on, on the end of the socket? Did you just make that? thanks
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 10:14 AM
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GM has a set for that but its easier to make your own. I have found that just covering the splines and oiling it up will do the trick.
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 10:56 PM
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One of the guys on here was very helpful when I had this problem, I had trashed a new seal trying to get it on and I used the advice from this board and it went right on.
Take the shaft that couples the splined end of the water pump to the splined drive and clean it up so its smooth, its the same diameter as the shaft your trying to get the seal on.
Oil up the shaft and slide your new seal on it (its much easier to do as its out of the car) now slide the splined shaft onto the water pump drive shaft and simply walk the new seal into position, remove the splined coupler and use a socket the same size as the seal and a hammer to tap it in.
Worked like a charm for me.
Old Jan 16, 2004 | 08:37 AM
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Smile

Thanks we will try, he has messed up 6 gaskets I think. The engine is still in the car, too bad.
Old Jan 16, 2004 | 09:35 AM
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Originally posted by Coolformula
thanks. I love how you got a pic for everything. So what exactly is the seal on, on the end of the socket? Did you just make that? thanks
Shoebox is our friend!
Old Jan 16, 2004 | 10:05 AM
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Originally posted by Coolformula
thanks. I love how you got a pic for everything. So what exactly is the seal on, on the end of the socket? Did you just make that? thanks
Yeah, that is a deep socket. My 6 pt, 3/8 drive, 1/2 Craftsman deep socket is ~ the same diameter as the coupler. It is already nice and smooth, so you don't have to do any sanding or polishing of anything (the coupler is a good idea, but it actually has small machined lines on it, plus you would want to avoid the end with the groove in it). Carefully slip the seal on the socket with a drop of oil. Butt the socket to the w/p drive and the seal should slide right over.
If you have a socket that is a smidge larger in diameter (I found that my 13mm deep was like that), it might even be better. The seal would then not try to catch at all, as it would be temporarily stretched a little larger. After it goes on, the seal will conform to it's original size. Just don't force the seal onto something that is much larger. The seal might not recover.

The bottom pic without the seal on it, shows how you can do sort of a slide hammer effect by slipping a larger socket (actually, my 7/8, 1/2 drive socket was about the right outside diameter) over an extension inserted into the smaller socket. This will help you get the seal started into the cover.
Old Jan 16, 2004 | 10:44 AM
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I use a piece of 1/2" conduit tapered on the end, leave the shaft in the drive, put the seal on the conduit, then butt the conduit flush with the driveshaft and slide the seal over very quickly. works everytime
Old Jan 16, 2004 | 10:52 AM
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Read this whole thread...... http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=162868
Old Jan 16, 2004 | 11:10 AM
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Originally posted by JBirdSS
Read this whole thread...... http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=162868
I did it the same way you mentioned in your post. I would just add that I "bull nosed" the coupler a little before inserting it in the seal. By bull nosing (I can't think a better descriptive word) I mean rounded and smoothed the OD of the one tip. This enables an easy insertion without tearing the seal lips.

I picked up this tip from MORE Performance in Charlotte before I redid my cam last March. It works!

Also, install the timing cover before you press fit the seal!
Old Jan 16, 2004 | 11:12 AM
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Originally posted by Don 97 SS
I did it the same way you mentioned in your post. I would just add that I "bull nosed" the coupler a little before inserting it in the seal. By bull nosing (I can't think a better descriptive word) I mean rounded and smoothed the OD of the one tip. This enables an easy insertion without tearing the seal lips.

Sounds kinda sexual
Old Jan 16, 2004 | 02:55 PM
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Originally posted by jonaddis84
Sounds kinda sexual
ROTFLMAO! We can tell what's on your mind. Well, I guess for those that are not getting it enough, it might sound "kinda sexual". Hee hee, just kidding.

I might add that I used some spare ATF fluid laying around the shop to lubricate the seal lips. (But don't try that at home for a lubricant! )
Old Jan 16, 2004 | 08:49 PM
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thanks were going to get a seal, thanks shoebox. I got all the craftsman stuff so we should get it,my friend is about to give up and put a csi like on the other post...were going to try once more.


P.S shoebox, maybe you should do the paypal option on your site...
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