I was trying to figure out why engine had overloaded with fuel and locked up. Been a few months but finally replaced engine and my fears are back.
*I was having a cylinder 6 misfire when i just dropped this 70k used engine in, which apparently the code I had before my last engine locked up.
I knew it wasnt a spark issue because I had a tester connected to the wire and plug and they all looked good. So I assumed injector. I used the pinout diagram and checked all injector grounds to pcm and they were all with in 1 ohm +/- .03. I started with a test light and seen that i had power to injectors with key on but the pink wire that runs to the injectors was also grounding out when I put test light from positive of battery to hot on injector side (I was checking for short). I never could find where it was grounding so I temporarily ran a fused hot wire from the pink injector wires to a power just to see if it ran better. I used a noid light and they were all flashing while engine was running like they were supposed to and I don't have a injector 6 misfire code now.I let the car run for about 20 min at idle with a few revs in between to get hot to check coolant and all. Everything seemed ok but smelt a little rich.
While driving in today its flashing and I have several codes. P1441, p0300, p0174, p0403, p0151 and p0122 only code I can vouch for is*egr*which I did not hook up because I was going to have it tuned out.any help is appreciated. I know its a long thread but I tried to be a little detailed so people knew what I done

 

The short could be on one of the injector ground wires. If the pink wire was shorted it would have blown a fuse a long time ago. If you hooked a test light between the battery and the injector end of a pink wire, the ground would have to be on the other side of the injector, where the current flow is limited by the resistance of the injector = no blown fuse.

That would explain an injector staying open. Not sure why you would have the noid light flashing on injector 6 though. The resistance check of the ground wire to the PCM connector wouldn't show up a wire shorted to a chassis ground. Maybe in testing this, you somehow disturbed and eliminated the ground on that wire.

You need to add a signature, with basic info about your car - year, model, engine, trans and any major mods. I can tell it's a 96 or 97 from the codes, but I would like to check them in the GM data base for the specific year. Lacking that, I'll just use the 97 list.

P0122 = TPS sensor low voltage. (less than 0.2V)
P0151 = Bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensot lean/stationary (below 200mV)
P0174 = Bank 2 fuel system lean (LTFT's avg above +21.9%)
P0403 = EGR vacuum solenoid cricuit (why not just use a resistor to eliminate this)
P0300 = Multiple cylinder misfires
P1441 = EVAP vacuum switch circuit high (vacuum present during non-purge)

Sound like you may have a faulty injector, or you didn't get all the connectors back on tight. Did you check the resistance of each injector?

 

I apologize thought I did all this but apparently signed in with through fb cause I forgot old info. And yes its a 97 z28. Ill start from your list.
1. what resistor for the egr harness cause I assumed it needed tuned out of the pcm.
2. I switched my o2s from bank 2 to 1 and the code followed. So I threw new sensor in it.
3. I forgot to hook hose up from the fuel line loom back to the ourge solenoid. I did that and waiting for that code.

And as far as the injector issue goes. I listened to all of rhem with a automotive stethoscope and can hear them all clicking . They all appear to be working. As far as my #6 I apparemtly have a plug wire arching from behind a wire boot protector. Ill finish that and see if I have another misfire.
The test I did with positive battery to pink injector and was gettimg voltage. I even grounded it out to see if fuse would blow and it did. Maybe there wasnt enough to cause fuse to blow im not sure. Maybe my tests weren't the right ones. I domt appear to be having any voltage to them now like I had previously.
Thoughts?

 

Just put a 2,000ohm resistor across the two pins in the EGR vacuum solenoid harness connector.

P1441 will appear if you have the two hoses reversed on the solenoid

To add a signature, you have to left click on "User CP" on the task bar at the top of the page, then click on "Edit Signature" on the dropdown. It will automatically be appended to all your posts.

 

I know how to add a sig I had lost my old password and the email I used. So I assumed signing in with fb it would keep same sig I used to have. No worries. But thank you.

Say the resistor will take care of the egr and as for the 2 hoses reversed your talking about the hoses being backwards on the purge solenoid causing code or egr. I blocked off the egr and the egr tube and didnt hook any hoses up and left the connector unplugged. This obd2 world is new to me. I come from a world of 3rd gens lol.
Thanks for the help. Going to work out the other codes tonight.
How do I test the tps even though it hasn't come back "yet." I seen the voltages but where do I stick the probes and to what wires. And how do I check it if its plugged in?

 

With key on, harness connected to the TPS sensor:

Check to see if you have 5V reference signal between the gray wire (5V reference) and the black wire (PCM sensor ground).

Then check voltage between the dark blue signal wire and the black wire.

At closed throttle, voltage has to be in the range of 0.30 - 0.90V. Typical stock reading it 0.65-0.67V.

Slowly rotate the blades open. The voltage should increase smoothly (no spikes or dropouts) until it is wide open and reaches about 4V higher than the closed throttle reading.

Pierce the wire insulation with a straight pin. Minimize the damage.