pHEnomIC

I am gonna go to the store to get the stuff to fix my intake leak and i got some questions:

Do i need anything besides: Fuel line disconnects, tools, permatex copper gasket maker, throttle body gaskets, intake gaskets, header wrap?

I was wondering, do i have to put any adhesive on the gaskets for the intake ports?

Should i do anything when the intake and tb are off besides cleaning them up a bit?

simple

you dont need the fuel line disconnect tool
just unbolt the rails from the intake and move the rails still connected to the lines out of the way. it will move too the drivers side pretty easily and leave you enuf room too do what needs too be done. i did this when i did my head and cam swap
leave your throttlebody bolted too the intake and you wont have too buy that gasket (no need too remove it) unless you really want too clean it

why do you want header wrap? most will tell you not too use it. it traps the heat so well that it will rot out the header inside the wrap and eventually you will have nothing left (there is a reason it voids header manufacturers warranties)

no adhesive needed for the intake gaskets

1quikZ

so basically only buy the intake gasket. lol

simple

well he will need some RTV for the front and back of the block/intake mating surfaces

pHEnomIC

I was thinking about putting header wrap on my egr because that is what melted the gasket to begin with. I always have trouble with gaskets when i use adhesive, they always seem to leak but... Should i use any besides in the front and back of the block/intake mating surfaces.

zhevy-1

What's the best RTV Compound/Sealant out there to use?

ZMAN Z28

High Temp RTV.

Z

NVetro

Just use ALOT of it, its what I did for mine and my friends and it never leaks. Can use black RTV, it works fine, and wont make your engine look like a pumpkin (high temp rtv). Also aside from puting the rtv in the right areas (front and back) as well as going upto the gasket level on the side of the heads on both front and back, how you place the intake manifold is VERY critical. Use 2 people for this, if you slide it from the front of the car on and wiggle it in, it will push ALL the rtv out like a waterfall. You need a stright shot right down on the surface, some people like to use the pencil guide method. I used 2 people, angle into position and drop it directly on its target, no sliding it on, thats what will cause the leak. Also be cautious of the area about the oil pressure sensor, make sure to put an amble amount of RTV around that metal fitting. Do that, and you'll be fine. Easy job, and yes you didn't keep fuel disco tools, could just take the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rails to the manifold off....

Compstall

If you're going to take the intake off the engine, why not just disconnect the fuel lines and clean it up while you're there?

And if you're careful, you can take your throttle body off the intake without ruining the gasket. But then sometimes the inevitable happens anyway I guess, if the gasket is old. I don't know, I take my throttlebody off at least once a year for cleaning so my gasket never gets a chance to really stick on there. I've had the same gasket for 3 years on there, off and on.

turbo_Z

I wouldnt go with that copper gasket maker.. The black stuff works just as well and doesnt look like crap.

What really helps to keep the intake from not leaking again is to get a healthy bead of RTV on the front and back of the block with it trailing about an inch up the head on each side... so basically right over the top of the small tabs on the intake gaskets at the front and rear, on both sides. And let the stuff set for 10-20 minutes so its good and tacky which helps the RTV stay in place when you set the intake down. And lastly the less you move the intake when its down.. the better your chances are of it not leaking in the future so try to line up the bolt holes as you lower it and set the intake down as evenly as you can. Maybe try doing it a couple of times w/o RTV so you can get a feel for everything.

JohnD

I used two pencils as guides putting the manifold in place. Lots of folks tell you not to start the engine for 24 hours after tightening the bolts down. I followed that advice and have had no problems since the repair.

pHEnomIC

I couldn't find any type of heat reflective tape to put on the egr pipe even at my local speed shop. They told me header wrap on there would cause more of a problem than help. Is the heat reflective tape necessary and if so, what exactly do i need to get? Is it good enough to just put the rtv at the front and back of the intake?

Joe 97RA

As was stated, let the RTV skin before reassembly and don't start the engine for 24 hrs. Jegs sells all kinds of self adhesive heat shielding, header wrap will work also. Just make darned sure that you lower the intake carefully and don't allow it to slide around else the RTV will be distorted enough to allow more leaks. Personally, I would use the disconnect tool for the fuel lines and really clean up the manifold prior to reassembly. Since you are already in there, why not do things right?