Remember my other thread? Now I KNOW my car is slow!!
Ok, I've gone through the process of elimination.
Since I ran my 9.0 previously on street tires the things I have changed since then up until the night I ran 8.90 are- Installed Daaco converter and topped off tranny with Maxxlife ATF, new tranny input shaft seal, put on a set of BFG drag radials, cleaned my MAF sensor.........
The drags won't hurt me, cleaning the MAF won't hurt me, Maxxlife fluid and a new seal won't hurt me. I guess it has to be the converter.
I really don't want to go above a 2400 stall. Can you give me some details on a midwest stall?? Darkhorse you said it was a "3000 2.5 str", what is 2.5 str??
I know that the cheaper converter are stock shells, like 11" converters just reworked, and I know some of the more expensive ones are 9.5".
Like I said, I'm leaning towards the B&M converters because I can get one that's a 2400 stall, and for about $350, but I wouldn't mind spending a little extra if I can get a lot more performance.
John
Since I ran my 9.0 previously on street tires the things I have changed since then up until the night I ran 8.90 are- Installed Daaco converter and topped off tranny with Maxxlife ATF, new tranny input shaft seal, put on a set of BFG drag radials, cleaned my MAF sensor.........
The drags won't hurt me, cleaning the MAF won't hurt me, Maxxlife fluid and a new seal won't hurt me. I guess it has to be the converter.
I really don't want to go above a 2400 stall. Can you give me some details on a midwest stall?? Darkhorse you said it was a "3000 2.5 str", what is 2.5 str??
I know that the cheaper converter are stock shells, like 11" converters just reworked, and I know some of the more expensive ones are 9.5".
Like I said, I'm leaning towards the B&M converters because I can get one that's a 2400 stall, and for about $350, but I wouldn't mind spending a little extra if I can get a lot more performance.
John
Originally posted by LWillmann
John, I don't know if you remember me, but a buddy and I came down and picked up a drive shaft from you.. He was gonna buy the wheels but ended up selling his car...
I think you have a tranny issue. I watched the video and it seems like you launched REALLY easy off the line.
My 96 Formula with 160* thermostat, TB Bypass, SLP CAI and TB airfoil with 2.73's and an A4 has done a best of 2.1x 60' times with a 9.35 1/8 on street tires with my amp rack in the car (subs out).
John, I don't know if you remember me, but a buddy and I came down and picked up a drive shaft from you.. He was gonna buy the wheels but ended up selling his car...
I think you have a tranny issue. I watched the video and it seems like you launched REALLY easy off the line.
My 96 Formula with 160* thermostat, TB Bypass, SLP CAI and TB airfoil with 2.73's and an A4 has done a best of 2.1x 60' times with a 9.35 1/8 on street tires with my amp rack in the car (subs out).
BTW where did you run that?? At the hill??
John
Re: couple things to think about >>
Originally posted by Dave C. '97 Z28
You never posted what your 60's were before, but there are some things to think about:
How big are you? If you're a big guy your car will not come out as good as a smaller guy driving the car.
What altitude are you running at? Seems alot of the guys posting are from coastal areas which mean they're near sea level. If you're up in the mountains at higher altitude, your car will run slower.
Are your tires standard or are they larger slick type tires? If they're larger diameter then your car won't come out as good.
13.5 with just bolt ons is not bad. 103-104MPH in the 1/4 is about where your car should be for the mods you have.
Just some thoughts....
-Dave C. '97 Z28
You never posted what your 60's were before, but there are some things to think about:
How big are you? If you're a big guy your car will not come out as good as a smaller guy driving the car.
What altitude are you running at? Seems alot of the guys posting are from coastal areas which mean they're near sea level. If you're up in the mountains at higher altitude, your car will run slower.
Are your tires standard or are they larger slick type tires? If they're larger diameter then your car won't come out as good.
13.5 with just bolt ons is not bad. 103-104MPH in the 1/4 is about where your car should be for the mods you have.
Just some thoughts....
-Dave C. '97 Z28
I'm not racing in a mountanous area, but I'm not at sea level either. The problem is that I'm trapping 4mph higher than some buddies and only running .2 faster, this and I have absolutely no tire spin.
I'm running 255/50/16 BFG drags. They are a little taller than stock, but not by too much.
John
185 >>
185 is what I would consider normal.
I guess then that the only other thing I could suggest is that if you have a cutout in your exhaust then make sure it's closed. You could be losing launching torque there.
Other than that, I would agree with the general consensus that the torque converter may be the culprit. A good racing converter will improve your launch substantially due to the superior torque multiplying effect. That is usually what you're paying for for the more expensive brands is the extra design and development that went into it. Maybe that Daaco converter just doesn't give you the torque enhancement of the other brands?
Good luck in figureing it out....
-Dave C. '97 Z28
I guess then that the only other thing I could suggest is that if you have a cutout in your exhaust then make sure it's closed. You could be losing launching torque there.
Other than that, I would agree with the general consensus that the torque converter may be the culprit. A good racing converter will improve your launch substantially due to the superior torque multiplying effect. That is usually what you're paying for for the more expensive brands is the extra design and development that went into it. Maybe that Daaco converter just doesn't give you the torque enhancement of the other brands?
Good luck in figureing it out....
-Dave C. '97 Z28
Did you go to Union Hill???
I ran up there last year and for some reason I was only running 9.2's cutting 2.2 60's...thats before the LT's, ORY, and cam...that track seems really slow to me...but thats just my opinion...and it usually isn't prepped to good on TnT...
It might just be the track, you never know...I haven't been up there in about year...
I ran up there last year and for some reason I was only running 9.2's cutting 2.2 60's...thats before the LT's, ORY, and cam...that track seems really slow to me...but thats just my opinion...and it usually isn't prepped to good on TnT...
It might just be the track, you never know...I haven't been up there in about year...
Originally posted by 1997rblckSS
Did you go to Union Hill???
I ran up there last year and for some reason I was only running 9.2's cutting 2.2 60's...thats before the LT's, ORY, and cam...that track seems really slow to me...but thats just my opinion...and it usually isn't prepped to good on TnT...
It might just be the track, you never know...I haven't been up there in about year...
Did you go to Union Hill???
I ran up there last year and for some reason I was only running 9.2's cutting 2.2 60's...thats before the LT's, ORY, and cam...that track seems really slow to me...but thats just my opinion...and it usually isn't prepped to good on TnT...
It might just be the track, you never know...I haven't been up there in about year...
Originally posted by 96blackbeast
i don't think you will be pleased going from a 2200 to a 2400. go to a 3200 vig and you will see a diiference (it flashes closer to 3800)
why don't you want to use a bigger stall?
i don't think you will be pleased going from a 2200 to a 2400. go to a 3200 vig and you will see a diiference (it flashes closer to 3800)
why don't you want to use a bigger stall?
John
Dude if you went to the hill, THAT is your problem. That is the slickest track!!! You may not even feel yourself spinning sometimes!!
I was hoping it had gotten better since april but I guess not
Anyways, you still may have a problem with your tranny maybe?? But please dont use the hills time to compare too
hehe
Jason
I was hoping it had gotten better since april but I guess not
Anyways, you still may have a problem with your tranny maybe?? But please dont use the hills time to compare too
heheJason
And stay away from US 43 Dragway down in Ethridge!!!!
OMG, they mine as well keep the track open when its raining, it couldn't be any worse than what is when it isn't raining...Son of a @#!!!
its sad we have to drive a hour and half to get a descent track to race at...yeah what Jason said, don't use your slips from the Hill to compare to...
OMG, they mine as well keep the track open when its raining, it couldn't be any worse than what is when it isn't raining...Son of a @#!!!
its sad we have to drive a hour and half to get a descent track to race at...yeah what Jason said, don't use your slips from the Hill to compare to...
haha, I know what you mean. I with I could just say "the hill sucks" and call it a day. Honestly, the hill does suck, but the fact remains that with the addition of drag radials and converter I gained a whole .1
Plus when I ran at the hill the weather was almost perfect!! Mid 60s, I'm not sure what the humidity was, but it didn't feel too bad. The car just lacks the power to launch, and I think the converter may have something to do with it
John
Plus when I ran at the hill the weather was almost perfect!! Mid 60s, I'm not sure what the humidity was, but it didn't feel too bad. The car just lacks the power to launch, and I think the converter may have something to do with it
John
Dude you should seriously consider a higher stall. Like 3200or 3000 and flash it. I have a 3200 Vig and it hits like a ton of bricks. I am cutting 1.62 60' and with my other mods I am running a blistering 7.09 in the 1/8th.
Damn dude, that's moving!!! I just saw a 2400 B&M stall for $239 in summit. Lockup and everything, it will work on my car.
Can I get a deal that good on a higher stall anywhere?? If so tell me where and I'll look in to it. I'm about broke at this point.
John
Can I get a deal that good on a higher stall anywhere?? If so tell me where and I'll look in to it. I'm about broke at this point.
John
Try calling them and seeing if they can't stall it a little higher. If you don't have much money I hear Midwest isn't bad either. But you really need around 3000 stall to get in your power range. Even if you buy a 3000 stall, it doesn't stall that high normally because you want to let the verter flash
FASTZ
FASTZ,
The problem is definitely in your converter. The Dacco converter that you have is actually less stall than your factory converter! On the '93-'97 Z28, the factory converter utilized a 14 blade Corvette style stator. The flash stall is around 2200-2300 rpm. The STR is Stall Torque Ratio...which is to say the torque multiplication of the converter. When a converter is stalled up it multiplies the engine's torque. That torque multiplication factor can be anywhere from 1.4 to 2.8 or even higher for dual stator applications (4L80E). You really need to step up to the 9.5" converter that is so popular. If the 3500 stall is too agressive for you, you may consider a 2800-3000 stall speed. You can get a great deal on a 3000 stall TCI converter through Jegs for $437. It's Jegs part number 890-243105. It's very streetable and should get you some low 1.7 to high 1.6 sixty foots on the drag radials. I've got one in my stepson's '94 Formula as well as in my '85 Cutlass.
If you're really hardpressed for money, you can use a factory 12"
converter from a 4.3V6 S10 truck. You can buy them new from GM (or Dacco) fairly cheap...however, not all of them are furnaced brazed, they don't have heavy duty bearings or super strong clutch linings. It'll probably be fine on motor...just don't use it with N2O.
Kevin
The problem is definitely in your converter. The Dacco converter that you have is actually less stall than your factory converter! On the '93-'97 Z28, the factory converter utilized a 14 blade Corvette style stator. The flash stall is around 2200-2300 rpm. The STR is Stall Torque Ratio...which is to say the torque multiplication of the converter. When a converter is stalled up it multiplies the engine's torque. That torque multiplication factor can be anywhere from 1.4 to 2.8 or even higher for dual stator applications (4L80E). You really need to step up to the 9.5" converter that is so popular. If the 3500 stall is too agressive for you, you may consider a 2800-3000 stall speed. You can get a great deal on a 3000 stall TCI converter through Jegs for $437. It's Jegs part number 890-243105. It's very streetable and should get you some low 1.7 to high 1.6 sixty foots on the drag radials. I've got one in my stepson's '94 Formula as well as in my '85 Cutlass.
If you're really hardpressed for money, you can use a factory 12"
converter from a 4.3V6 S10 truck. You can buy them new from GM (or Dacco) fairly cheap...however, not all of them are furnaced brazed, they don't have heavy duty bearings or super strong clutch linings. It'll probably be fine on motor...just don't use it with N2O.
Kevin
Last edited by bad79z28; May 15, 2003 at 12:34 PM.


