I ripped these out a long time ago when I lived in Indiana, thinking I'd never live in an emissions state. Fast-forward 10 years, and of course I'm in Texas now. Even w/o the emissions requirement, I'd still want to reinstall EGR, an I intend to tomorrow. Since the pipes aren't made anymore, and are hideous anyways, my plan is to use tubig and AN fitting to build one. My question is, can I install the tubes for EGR to connect to the headers only, and still leave the AIR pump line off? Basically not even build it in? Or will this cause problems with EGR functioning correctly because they use the same line?

 

The 93 plumbing is unique, because it uses the same system of lines for both AIR and EGR (they never operate at the same time). You could hook the EGR up the same way the 94-97 system is hooked up - a simple corrugated tube from #8 exhaust primary to the back of the intake manifold.

Courtesy of Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

You will just be missing a place to connect the AIR on the passenger side header. If you have 94/95 headers, you can use the 94-97 plumbing for AIR.

You should be able to find 94-97 components that people have removed. Try the "parts wanted" forum.

 

That's the same pic I was using as reference originally . My plan was to basically use a T-connector to draw from both of the AIR tubes on the headers, and thread the block-off plate I have so the T will screw directly into it.

Or if the block-off plate proves to be too thin for the thread pitch, get a small block of aluminum and grind a thicker piece to have the T screw into. (This is a new idea I came up with after 12 hrs of work, so be gentle )

Speaking of which, can you recommend a type of AN-line that would work for this kind of system? I know exhaust gets extremely hot, but the little hardline emissions tubing can's possibly be stronger than something like radiator hose right?

 

You're going to need metal lines for this. The plastic hard lines are nylon...they'll melt...

 

I think I may have all of the emission pipes and AIR pump from my 93 Firehawk. I put headers on last year. I also have the exhaust manifolds.
I need to look and make sure. If you are interested let me know I will sell them to you. I had the EGR and AIR deleted when I had my chip made.

It would save you alot of time.

 

And you aren't going to find "-AN" (braided SS) lines that will handle 1,000-degree plus exhaust.

The corrugated steel tube is made that way so it will tolerate the thermal expansion that occurs when it heats to 1,000-degrees.

 

Ok, so I'm buying a set from another member, but just for completeness of understanding, are the rubber tubes that come as part of the stock EGR pipes a special grade that can withstand higher temps? On a 93 at least, the pipes running from the passenger side header to the back of the intake are hard metal, but the driver side tube has only a small riser pipe made of metal, the rest is rubber. Given that the exhaust gases can't possibly cool that much, how does this pipe not melt/warp?

 

The check valves keep the exhaust from entering the rubber hoses that supply the injected air. If a check valve fails, a melted hose is usually the result.

 

Ahh, that would explain it. Thanks again everyone!

 

Is there any type of gasket material I can put around the outside of the egr but on the header? I have a slight leak somewhere, and I barely got it on the first time b/c the egr tube is a little bit further away than the stock lovation