Ok so my TA is getting pretty slow and up in miles and im thinking of rebuilding it so i can get good performance out of it. I want to do like a 383 stroker with a cc503 cam and ported heads and intake with new injectors and a bigger tb with a tune. I have never done a rebuild before meaning never got in to the bottom end of the engine. The car has 106k on it and i have the time to do it right don't care how long it takes. But the question i have is what would be the best 383 rebuild kit im thinking like maybe eagle. And whats the probability of me messing it up seeing this is my first bottom end work? Also would you think my motor would be able to handle the mods of cam heads and intake with that many miles under its belt with out a rebuild

 

This is basic "LT1 Based Engine Tech"..... not Advanced Tech.

Moving.............

And, you need to provide more background info... "best" depends on the engine's ultimate use (e.g. - power adder?) and your budget.

 

Oh sorry ok well my budget is about 2500 at the moment trying to get things rolling. The background on the motor itself is that only three owners. I have had it for almost two years when i bought the previous owner put a n2o system in it and ran 150 shot and you can tell has been beaten on which i have not run n2o since i've had it. It runs great and everything just little things go out like opti plugs water pump alternator and so fourth all of that is brand new that i replaced the only issues i have at the moment is a leaking oil pan and tranny is slipping and on its way out. But i'm going to deal with that once i have the motor out. When its all done want to be an everyday driver but be able to got to the drag strip maybe once or twice a year. Any input would be appreciated

 

Budget is 2500? I would like to take the time to break down my build experience. Let me first mention that you can do the build for less, but the basic experience doesnt change much.

TOP END
Trick Flow Heads 1300 NEW
Edelbrock Air Gap Intake 400.00
58mm TB 300 New
Comp Pro Mag Roller 1.6 Rockers 290 NEW
Hardened Pushrods 100 NEW
New Lifters 100 NEW

Total :$2490

Bottom End

LT1 Block 200 USED
Forged JE Pistons 800 NEW
Forged 6.0 I beam rods 800 NEW
Forged Compstar 396 stroker crank 750 NEW

Total : $2550

AND DONT FORGET ABOUT MACHINE WORK!

Boring cylinders
clearancing block for stroker crank


Odds and Ends (cant remember prices)

Oil pump
Wires
TUNE TUNE TUNE

With this kind of power you are going to need to think about a serious build on that 4L60E.

I am sure I am missing some stuff, but the point is that you really should think about this REALLY hard before you jump. I had absolutely NO idea about what I was getting into, and just chalk it up as a learning experience.

You are looking atleast 6-8 grand for a good build (if you use all new stuff). That said, you should try looking into a mildly used shortblock or long if you can find the deal...and they are out there.

 

a good forged 383ci rotating assembly alone will cost u around $2500+,,,with that budget i would do a 355ci rebuild with stock bottom end and forged pistons

 

I have herd a couple people talk about a 383 rebuild kit is only 1000 minus machine work of course but idk if that is true or not. Should i just see if the motor will hold up with the bolt ons and if it doesn't rebuild it there is somebody down by my dad that will build the engine 383 with forged pistons for about 2700 i haven't herd anything about him. But the 2500 is just the start i plan on this build taking me 6 months to a year to finish even though i don't i have never worked on lower end. Also would it be just worth it to rebuild it stock and put bolt ons like heads cam and intake just trying to get my bearings on what i should do be for i take that plunge

 

Just curious... why would you spend $1,300 for new heads that don't flow anywhere near what you could get out of stock LT1 heads ported by AI or LE, and a 62cc combustion chamber volume that lowers your CR by one point?

Ditto on the Edelbrock intake manifold. What advantage does it offer over the stock intake, which has a significantly larger plenum volume, and in published dyno tests, out-performs the Edlebrock intake?

 

Lol, you are not the first person to point this out. I wish I had known then what I know now. I was excited to get the build going and had some money to blow on some parts so I just did what some "experts" told me to do at the time, man if I could do it all over again! I have seen sets of LE heads come and go, and as for the intake...I was going to meet Dale Earnhardt Jr. on base here and wanted to get him to sign an intake for me, he did, it looks cool, and I do not regret that part. But for the heads... I had a theory back then about the heads though, dropping the comp ratio would help reach a reasonable level for the SC, really not concerned about that now though as boost is still a year+ off.

 

You can get a fully forged 383 rotating assembly from Competition Products with a Howards Tracksmart 4340 forged American made crank, 6" 4340 h beam rods and SRP forged ft pistons with rings and bearings for $1600 then get your heads ported by LE to Stage 1 specs and one of his custom cams for about $1300 - $1500. Then all you need to do is get your block fully machined and clearanced for about $850 without 4 bolt splayed caps or about $550 more with splayed caps installed and get a mail order tune to get you started. This setup with some 42# injectors an ewp lts and free flowing exhaust should get you 410 - 430 rwhp with a m6.