Hello,

I recently changed my trans and put in a yank converter. While the trans was out i decided to change the RMS since the car is getting up there in age and I had access.

I took the car for a test drive for about 30 minutes on the highway and stopped to check my fluids. Took a peek under the car and noticed oil.

Brought it home and put it on the ramps. Pulled the inspection plate and saw oil with one drop looking like it was ready to fall from the RMS. Its def not the oil pan gasket as i changed that last year and it was dry before I pulled the trans.

Sooo, I cleaned everything up with brake cleaner and started her up to make sure thats where the oill is coming from. I let it run for about 20 minutes but not one drop fell and there wasnt any sign of oil from the RMS. Its been shut off for about an hour now an no sign of a leak.

When I replaced the seal i used the Felpro Teflon piece and installed it correctly with the sleeve that comes with it. Put a slight coat of RTV on the outside and drove it in with a piece of 4" PCV. Went in evenly...

Does anybody have any experience with this? Does the new RMS have a break in period where it might leak?

Any help is really appreciated. I dont want to pull the trans again if you think this might be normal.

Thanks so much!

 

Sometimes seals leak when there is blowby (crankcase positive pressure) and you might not see that at an idle or on shutoff. You should check your PVC system and also the back of the intake manifold or area around the starter where the dipstick goes in just to make sure you don't have another leak. Either way, it doesn't sound like you have much of a problem. My car is pretty leak free, but sometimes I notice a little oil on the inspection cover coming from somewhere - I'm certainly not going to tear it all apart to fix it unless it's geting all over the underside of the car or leaking onto the ground and spotting.

 

What sleeve?

 

The felpro teflon gasket includes what they call an installation tool. Its a plastic sleeve that slips onto the end of the crank. It keeps the lip of the seal from deforming when you drive it in. After you drive it in, you remove the sleeve.

When it took it out I played around in the higher rpms...you think it could be blowby? What can I do to stop this. Checked PCV valve and its good. Nothing else is leaking. Its bone dry under there right now. But maybe I should take it out for another spin.

Do these seals need to break in on to the crank?

 

I have run both Felpro and gm stock RMS. I like the gm RMS better. It has additional flutes that ride the crank for a better seal (my opinion). Also, the RMS housing can have some eccentric misalignment. On my 97ss 383, the seal housing and crank were slightly off (not concentric). I removed and re-aligned the RMS seal housing. It was always leaking a bit, but, oil never got into my clutch since oil could not get by the fly wheel (M6). Always a couple of drips when I parked. Also, I investigated crankcase pressure (PCV). I was gettin alot of it (run a Procharger D1), and, resulting RMS leaks (also front pan seal leaks). Even with plumb of the PCV to the blower intake duct. I even blew out the fron oil pan seal. Oil mist run into the intake made a mess inside the manifold, and, really did not solve the RMS leak. Then I designed a GZ103P Vac pump mod for the LT1 383. That works, and, really sealed the piston rings for more cylinder pressure. No leaks now. Oil will always ride the rear main seal under acceleration. Now the crankcase runs a healthy negative pressure (1/3 atm max.) B. Note... I had to move the rad to mod for the Vac pump, and, it looks much better. Not a bolt on mod. HTH. B.

 

Thanks Guys. I am having a tough time understanding why the RMS would leak and then not show me a drop for an hour. Quite a bit of oil came out of there during my test run. Now nothing. Can this happen? Maybe the RMS broke in? My pcv is totally functional and this is basically a stock motor with boltons.

The only reason im concerned is I dont want to take the car on a road trip and then have to deal with this far from home.

 

It is possible it wasn't seated on the crank properly and when you slid the card out it pulled the seal(lip) outwards allowing for a path that oil will find. After running it there is a possibility that it could have seated better on the shaft preventing the leak again. Who knows the answer for certain, if its not leaking no more its notta tumor, I mean problem

 

Im gonna take it for another ride in the morning. Lets see what happens. If it still leaks bad, gonna have to pull the tranny and fix it.

By the way, I just put in the FLT level 3 with a yank ss3200...and the car is sooo much fun! Money well spent...

 

You have a part list and procedure for this?

 

No written instructions. Just pics.
http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/n...p%204th%20gen/
I had to move the rad forward. The Vac receiver "can - from GZMS" was thrown out for a better design that I did myself. I have no pics of this piece yet. I made alot of these parts myself since none were available for a LT1 series engine/ 97ss. The 4th gen does not have alot of scace under hood. Do you think there is a market for thie mod??? This is a street driven car. The pump was purchased from gzmotorsports.com B.