OK,
So I tried changing these things earlier.... Well a pad change is nothing, I undo the top bolt swing the caliper down, wa-la, easy, I c-clamp the piston back into the caliper... So I cant get to the bottom bolt of the cailper... I try to take the other two bolts out for the bracket that holds the caliper on. only the top would come off, couldnt get the bottom for the hell of me, sprayed pb blaster a few times... anyways I got so frustrated that its all back together with the stuff it had on... Well not my pedal feels all mushy and is making a weird *** noise when I push it down, goes down like 2 inchs before it starts to stop the car... What the hell did I screw up.. and how I do this job the right way.....

I appericate the help very much guys...

This brake job me

 

and how do I get my pedal feeling good again ?

I'm so and: confused: at the same time... I'll be out tommorow with the gf's car to mass but back sunday to fix the car.. Please help me out guys.... sorry about the double post here...

 

1) Get a breaker bar, I garuntee the bolt will come off like butter.

2) You probably have to bleed your brakes. LPE Dave has a good tutorial on his web page or just do a search on bleeding brakes.

 

how are ya gonna fit a breaker bar in there? I could barely get the friking socket and ratchet in there (3/8 w 15mm socket) that is the correct size right? also I jut went out and started it and the RED "BRAKE" Light is on... ???

 

You CAN fit a breaker bar in there, its just tricky . If you have and Q's just IM me because i just did pads and rotors.

 

What size breaker bar should I get? 3/8 drive of course...

What size is the correct socket? 15mm ?

Why is the pedal mushy? Do I need to bleed the system?
Why is the BRAKE light on?

 

you shouldnt need to bleed the system. just be sure to undo the master cyclinder cap. The breaker bar i got was from autozone with a swivel socket, i think it was about a 1 1/4 feet long.

 

why did the BRAKE light come on though? any ideas ????

 

Perhaps what happened during this is that you poked a connector or sensor for the ABS system back there, and now it's not happy or something. Remember your coolant sensor how it broke on the headers? typical old plastic cracking... I dont know if you can pull codes for the brake system on OBDI and I dont know OBDII well enough, but I'll take a look. I'll try to give you a call, my garage is full with my car, but perhaps we can get a few moments to figure out yours too.

Geoff

 

Geoff,
Give me a ring on sunday... if it isnt raining, maybe we can get together.. I may need some rear brake parts...

I wont be around saturday... til later after 9pm

Thanks buddy

I dont think I have any rear brakes working at all. went for a drive, its horrible.. pedal is so mushy its sure something isnt right back there.. dang cars

 

any ideas why the BRAKE light came on, feels like there is NO back brakes what so ever

 

So I take it, No one else, EVER had this problem?

 

Brake lights on, I can only think of two possibilities:

1. The brake pedal isn't returning all the way to it's rest position.

2. The sensor that checks to see if you are pushing on the brake pedal is faulty.

 

I think the master cylinder is shot... is that possible? front brakes have FULL pressure, rear NONE... Tried to bleed them with a friend, nothing comes out, maybe a drop or two... Sounds like a Master Cylinder problem... The two lines that comes off the master cylinder and go into the first distro block looking thing.. they have a 1'st senseor there on the abs box, i took that off, the brake light went out... so is it the master cylinder? I'm gonna replace it and find out....

 

Replaced Master Cylinder... Bled entire system and Flushed with NEW FLUID... Problem solved... Brake lights off too....