First the excuses. I have a full wieght 1994 vert. I had a full tank, spare tire and jack and my very heavy back pack. I decided screw it, I'll leave everything in and just use tonight to see if the car withstand the abuse.
I have a 383 with H/C and bolt ons, detailed mod list below and cut out open. I used BFG D/R 315 35 17 with 15 psi. I ran a 12.7 @ 110mph with a 1.9 60. I actually ran a 12.6 my first run up with a 1.7 60 @ 109 but that was fluke and never duplicated.
My A/F was between 10.0-11.2 most of the runs. My o2 milivolts ranged from 940-880. I used C16 racing fuel but it was added to a nearly full tank. I still had knock when in P/T driving around but only one time did I see any knock at WOT and it was 3.2 degrees. I should also mention that I didnt let the car cool down alot. That may account for the couple of 13 second passes I had also at the same mph lol.
I need to get this thing on the dyno and get some logs so I can see it's true potential. I didnt expect anything fabulous tonight. I'm only dissapointed with the MPH. I was kinda hoping it would be in the 117mph range. I may go back tommorow, but it's doubtfull. Untill I get a re tuned Ill never see the true performance even with less wieght. So what do you think?


-Engine-
Eagle 4340 383 stroker kit
SRP 5 cc pistons
Upgraded oil pump
Vented Optispark conversion (Dynaspark)
Cloyes Double Roller Timing chain
LT4 ported intake manifold
ATI crank pulley
Moroso deep sump oil pan
Meziere electric water Pump
AFR 190 Lloyd Elliot port and polished 217cc heads
Lloyd Elliot / Bret Bauer custom cam
Comp 977 dbl springs and Ti retainers
Crane energizer series non slef aligning Rocker arms
AFR guide plate
AFR one peice chrome moly pushrods
Racetronix 37lbs injectors
Racetronix fuel pump with harness
Taylor spark plug wires
Hypertech 160 thermostat
BBK 58mm Throtle Body
Moroso Cold air intake
MSD 6AL ignition
MSD blaster coil
4 bolt block
NGK Plugs
LT1 Scanmaster
PLX A/F ratio gauge
LT4 KM

-Suspension-
BMR relocation brackets
LS1 brake upgrade
BMR Adjustable lower control arms
BMR adjustable panhard bar
BMR Sub frame connectors
BMR Shock tower brace
C/E Adjustable Rear Drag Shocks
Poly Torque arm mount

-Drivetrain-
Pro Built race rebuild kit
Transgo shift kit
3500 Yank torque converter
4.10 gears
B&M supercooler w/fan
Trans temp gauge

-Rims and Tires-
Chrome ZR1 rims 17X11 rear 17X9.5 front
BFG drag radials 315/35/17

 

Ok well one thing I see wrong is racing full weight, thats certanly not helping. Take all the crap out that you can, you can put it back in when you leave. Spark retard is something that needs to be addressed in tuning, also verified through datamaster or a acceptable scanning/logging tool

Also your PSI in the radial is WAAAAAY to low, its not a slick its a radial with side walls, Ive used DR from BFG, Nitto and M/T and the most optinum ive seen for traction and top end mph has been between 23-26 psi. Also pump the front to like 50 psi.

that will help with the low mph

 

Well, you need to get a tune if your A/F is that rich. Typically 12.5:1 to 13:1 is a good range to be in. You need a dyno tune or a good street tune with a wide band to get your A/F and timing worked out. Talk to Bret or Lloyd and see what they suggest...And yes, your air pressure is way low...20 psi minimum with those 315s because youll cup the centers in and just run on the outrside edges with that little pressure. You'd definitely benefit form 16x8s and 255 M/T radials, but get the tune worked out first. Without knowing your cam specs and your race weight its hard to say what your mph should be, but it seems low and I think the tune accounts for a lot of it. Don't get discouraged...you'll get it nailed down...

--Alan

 

Depending on what the elevation is at your track, that could explain the lack of MPH. With your setup, I would expect to see you around 115-117mph.

 

Lose the spare and jack and run about 5 gallons. Put your backpack on someone elses back during runs too. You'll lose over 100lbs there. Air the DR's back up a bit and pass on the C16. You probably don't need it on your set up and it could actually hurt you. Just stick with a good premium fuel. Get on the dyno and see if you can tune to the mid 12 to 13:1 range on the A/F's like stated above. It will probably make most power there. As for the timing, it may even be false knock. If you can determine that it is, you can run with KR turned off if you have the capability to tune yourself. There are a lot of people here who run like that cause its nearly impossible to get rid of the false stuff once you get modified like crazy.

Ken R.

 

With my nitto's at ~17-18psi, 275/40/17's, I'm still wearing out the centers about twice as fast as the outside...

 

What Exhaust You Running??

 

Thanks for the advise everyone. I'm running hooker headers and 3.5 all the way back to the cutout. Like everyone said, I'm going to get it on a dyno and try to cut some of the wieght out it. I dont know if that will gain me the missing 5-7 mph I think I should have but it's a start.

 

Also, I forgot to mention that the highest i could brake stall my car with my yank 3500 was 1100 before the car would start moving. I think I need a new torque converter.

 

I can only get mine up to about 1500-1600 before it starts to move. But if I try and bring it above 1000, it will blow the tires off. I just flash it off the line.

 

You have a 3500? How well do you hook when flashing it? Ive never had success flashing my other cars.

 

I spec'ed out a 3600 when I bought it, but it will flash right under 4000 on the dyno. I am still working out my suspension, but it will hit the tires pretty hard lifting the front left several inches. But I am spinning right after it lifts. Still running consistant 1.6X 60fts. My best being a 1.57 60ft. Ran consistant 7.69's in the 1/8th last weekend, with a best last year of a 7.57 in the 1/8th.

 

So basiclly you just floor it at the light?

 

Whats your elevation?

 

Mine's only a 2500 stall and I can flash it to 3000 off the line. However I can only brake stall it up to 900 before my tires start spinning. Yes to flash it, just floor it off the line and see how high the revs jump to