quick question- heads are at machine shop
quick question- heads are at machine shop
I am doing a valve job and basically refreshing the heads, so while the heads are there should I go ahead and have the heads machined and have some new rocker studs and guideplates installed?
I know that the factory rocker arms are self aligning but I heard that with big cam and high RPM guideplates are recommended.I have a CC306 right now but plan to go GM847.
So what are your thoughts on this guys?
I know that the factory rocker arms are self aligning but I heard that with big cam and high RPM guideplates are recommended.I have a CC306 right now but plan to go GM847.
So what are your thoughts on this guys?
I am doing a valve job and basically refreshing the heads, so while the heads are there should I go ahead and have the heads machined and have some new rocker studs and guideplates installed?
I know that the factory rocker arms are self aligning but I heard that with big cam and high RPM guideplates are recommended.I have a CC306 right now but plan to go GM847.
So what are your thoughts on this guys?
I know that the factory rocker arms are self aligning but I heard that with big cam and high RPM guideplates are recommended.I have a CC306 right now but plan to go GM847.
So what are your thoughts on this guys?
ss.slp.ls1 I'm not sure I understand correctly...do you have stock rockers and springs? If so, get 1.6rr's, better springs, and chromoly push rods.
SO, should I have the heads machined for the guideplates so that the when the studs are installed they will be at correct height.
As far as the heads I am having a basic 3angle valve job, with new seals and they will mill it for flatness.
I was considering the pocket port but it is $100 each head is this worth it, they said it would give me the best bang for the buck, but I didn't know if it was worth the $200.
So should I have the pocket port done and Can I use the guideplates and studs with the self-aligning roller rockers?
1) Yes, have the heads decked, basic security/insurance that they're clean and flat, and it'll only help with power.
2) Yes, eventhough they are self aligning unless there's a clearance issue, run guideplates. GM guideplates are like $40 new I think. (hardened pushrods are a must)
3)Yes, personally I would spend the $200 extra and get them pocket ported. That is a great bang for the buck option. It'll run good with the 847.
4) Like Z-Rated94 said, run the Impala head gasket for even more compression. The motor will love the 847 with semi worked heads.
Also, just to save yourself time/trouble I'd get the machine shop to go ahead and assemble them. Most likely they've done it a shat load of times and it will take them an hour where it might take you 5.
Just for reference, at the machine shop I spent $430 for a 3-angle valve job, all new stock sized valves, cleaned and assembled with guideplates and springs, things looked brand spankin new. All I had to do was put on the roller rockers after the heads were on the motor.
Goodluck.
2) Yes, eventhough they are self aligning unless there's a clearance issue, run guideplates. GM guideplates are like $40 new I think. (hardened pushrods are a must)
3)Yes, personally I would spend the $200 extra and get them pocket ported. That is a great bang for the buck option. It'll run good with the 847.
4) Like Z-Rated94 said, run the Impala head gasket for even more compression. The motor will love the 847 with semi worked heads.
Also, just to save yourself time/trouble I'd get the machine shop to go ahead and assemble them. Most likely they've done it a shat load of times and it will take them an hour where it might take you 5.
Just for reference, at the machine shop I spent $430 for a 3-angle valve job, all new stock sized valves, cleaned and assembled with guideplates and springs, things looked brand spankin new. All I had to do was put on the roller rockers after the heads were on the motor.
Goodluck.
Last edited by tbird31; Mar 27, 2008 at 01:21 PM.
You don't have anything machined, unless you mean porting. If you go with an aggressive cam, then it is recommended to go with Non-SA RRs.
It is not recommended to use quide plates with SA RRs. Either you go with SA rockers which require no guide plates or hardend push rods, or you go with Non-SA rockers with guide plates and hardended push rods.
As far as bigger studs, you might as well use them, but make sure that the Rockers are for stud size you choose.
As far as pocket work----that is where the biggest restriction is in the heads. So if you were to do nothng else with the heads you would have the pockets worked. So yes to the pocket work. You should always emphasize that you want to most flow you can get without compromising velocity, that you want the most efficient ratio between the intake and exhaust flow and that you defiinitely want some quality pocket work including radiaus work.
As long as the heads are with the machinist, you might have them install the springs to the corrrect height and pressures to accommodate the cam since they need to install the valves anyway. If you your valve quides need work, don't settle for anything less than new guides or new valves, either chromed or larger stemed to take up the worn valve guides, i.e., don't do that part on the cheap----however you may not need any guide work at all. Just food for thought.
Polishing doesn't hurt if you can get a good deal on it.
It is not recommended to use quide plates with SA RRs. Either you go with SA rockers which require no guide plates or hardend push rods, or you go with Non-SA rockers with guide plates and hardended push rods.
As far as bigger studs, you might as well use them, but make sure that the Rockers are for stud size you choose.
As far as pocket work----that is where the biggest restriction is in the heads. So if you were to do nothng else with the heads you would have the pockets worked. So yes to the pocket work. You should always emphasize that you want to most flow you can get without compromising velocity, that you want the most efficient ratio between the intake and exhaust flow and that you defiinitely want some quality pocket work including radiaus work.
As long as the heads are with the machinist, you might have them install the springs to the corrrect height and pressures to accommodate the cam since they need to install the valves anyway. If you your valve quides need work, don't settle for anything less than new guides or new valves, either chromed or larger stemed to take up the worn valve guides, i.e., don't do that part on the cheap----however you may not need any guide work at all. Just food for thought.
Polishing doesn't hurt if you can get a good deal on it.
ok, just got off the phone with the machine shop, I am getting:
3 angle valve job
w/back cut valves
pocket port and radius work
match porting on intake
new seals
guideplates and studs 7/16" the machining I was speaking of is to properly place the stud once the guideplate is installed
and are milling the heads for flatness they said that they might be a little warped on one head(visual inspection only) so it might need to ber milled more
I also plan to go with the impala head gasket, depending on how much is milled
and these heads are and extra set I have but when I dis-assemble the engine in the car they are going to test out the springs on those heads(pac) to make sure they will work with new cam and swap out springs then if not get some new ones.
next question, I know I need 7/16" RR but do I need self-aligning or non-self aligning?
I know tbird31 said:
but BUBBA also said:
SO which is it?, and I looked on summit and the only NSA RR I see for the LT1 are trickflow for $307.95, is there something a little cheaper I can run for now?
I was originally going to go with the COMP Cams Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rocker Arms for 112.69 or either the summit or proforms for 185.95 but I am not sure if they even sell the roller tip in a 7/16"
And also with the GM847 should I go 1.5 or 1.6?
3 angle valve job
w/back cut valves
pocket port and radius work
match porting on intake
new seals
guideplates and studs 7/16" the machining I was speaking of is to properly place the stud once the guideplate is installed
and are milling the heads for flatness they said that they might be a little warped on one head(visual inspection only) so it might need to ber milled more
I also plan to go with the impala head gasket, depending on how much is milled
and these heads are and extra set I have but when I dis-assemble the engine in the car they are going to test out the springs on those heads(pac) to make sure they will work with new cam and swap out springs then if not get some new ones.
next question, I know I need 7/16" RR but do I need self-aligning or non-self aligning?
I know tbird31 said:
tbird31
2) Yes, eventhough they are self aligning unless there's a clearance issue, run guideplates.
2) Yes, eventhough they are self aligning unless there's a clearance issue, run guideplates.
BUBBA It is not recommended to use quide plates with SA RRs. Either you go with SA rockers which require no guide plates or hardend push rods, or you go with Non-SA rockers with guide plates and hardended push rods
I was originally going to go with the COMP Cams Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rocker Arms for 112.69 or either the summit or proforms for 185.95 but I am not sure if they even sell the roller tip in a 7/16"
And also with the GM847 should I go 1.5 or 1.6?
SO which is it?, and I looked on summit and the only NSA RR I see for the LT1 are trickflow for $307.95, is there something a little cheaper I can run for now?
I was originally going to go with the COMP Cams Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rocker Arms for 112.69 or either the summit or proforms for 185.95 but I am not sure if they even sell the roller tip in a 7/16"
And also with the GM847 should I go 1.5 or 1.6?
I was originally going to go with the COMP Cams Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rocker Arms for 112.69 or either the summit or proforms for 185.95 but I am not sure if they even sell the roller tip in a 7/16"
And also with the GM847 should I go 1.5 or 1.6?
I'm a little puzzled by the above. The roller tip is not what the 7/16" is referring to...it's the stud size required by the rocker.
Originally Posted by ACE1252
Quote:
Originally Posted by 88IROC_Z View Post
I was originally going to go with the COMP Cams Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rocker Arms for 112.69 or either the summit or proforms for 185.95 but I am not sure if they even sell the roller tip in a 7/16"
I'm a little puzzled by the above. The roller tip is not what the 7/16" is referring to...it's the stud size required by the rocker.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 88IROC_Z View Post
I was originally going to go with the COMP Cams Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rocker Arms for 112.69 or either the summit or proforms for 185.95 but I am not sure if they even sell the roller tip in a 7/16"
I'm a little puzzled by the above. The roller tip is not what the 7/16" is referring to...it's the stud size required by the rocker.
And as far as the rockers I am going NSA full roller I am trying to decide which to go with since I am on a budget but I am for sure going 1.6 NSA full roller either from proform or dependent on how much I spend this next week when I go on vacation I might be able to afford the COMP Cams Ultra Gold.
Also though I had one more question, the machine shop is going to gasket match my heads and intake, right now I have the OEM intake, but plan to go to LT4, so should and could I have my OEM heads and intake ported to the size of the LT4 gasket?
I am supposed to drop off the gaskets I will be using by Monday so should I buy an LT4 intake gasket set, or is there a better part # to buy?
I was looking at GM PN 12528884 or Fel-Pro MS96386 which are both for 96' lt4 with "rectangle raised port" on gm and "stock LT4 only" from fel-pro , would either of these work for what I am trying to door should I stick with LT1 gaskets?
I just don't want to have to have the heads port-matched again when I get my LT4 intake.
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