Questions about lt1
12-31-2003, 02:04 AM
#1
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Questions about lt1
ok i was doing some cam research and im pretty sure id like to get a roller cam and roller lifters... now the stock design doesnt have roller lifters does it?
well what i read said to change to a roller lifters i would need to get heavier springs and stornger pushrods and stroger rocker arms. and machine the block to accept the lifter guide plates.
ok what does it mean and how much does it cost to "Machine the block"
also id like some really heavy springs can someone give me a good recomendations along with pushrods and rocker arms.
well what i read said to change to a roller lifters i would need to get heavier springs and stornger pushrods and stroger rocker arms. and machine the block to accept the lifter guide plates.
ok what does it mean and how much does it cost to "Machine the block"
also id like some really heavy springs can someone give me a good recomendations along with pushrods and rocker arms.
12-31-2003, 02:33 AM
#2
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lets just step this out:
the 93-97 lt1 had roller lifters, but they wernt that great. replace them with compcams roller lifters, and use the stock guides.
there are many types of machining that can be done to a block. there is:
boring, which refers to removing metal from the cylinders. IE if you hear people talking about a .030 (pronounced thirty over) bore, thats what they are talking about. done usually to a used block that has wear in the chambers; but also sometimes for more cubes. not very expensive, ive seen as little as 8$ a hole.
splaying, the process of changing a 2 bolt main, to a 4 bolt main. mainly to strengthen the bottom end. this refers to the main bering caps, 2 or 4 bolts holding them to the block. ive seen prices as high as 900 for this mod.
releaving, this is where a shop takes metal away from the block to make up for a change in stroke geometry. usually caused by stroking a motor (longer connecting rods, thinner pistons, to simulate a larger block) This can be very expensive, i couldnt even start to name prices.
Keying, in this reference the harmonic balencer, just to make it stronger. seen a high of 100.
there are other things machine shops can do to your block, but those are the main things most shops deal with. there is also balancing and blue printing.
as for springs to buy, i bought comp cams 986-16, price from comp cams is 95.06, but you can find them on the net for less. for the push rods, i wouldnt change the stock length unless you are doing something else with the motor. a drastic cam can sometimes require a different pushrod length, as could a differnt rocker ratio (ie 1.5 or 1.6 roller rockers). i would also consider the use of guide plates for the push rods. if you want comp cams guide plates, they are number 4800-8
hope that helps
the 93-97 lt1 had roller lifters, but they wernt that great. replace them with compcams roller lifters, and use the stock guides.
there are many types of machining that can be done to a block. there is:
boring, which refers to removing metal from the cylinders. IE if you hear people talking about a .030 (pronounced thirty over) bore, thats what they are talking about. done usually to a used block that has wear in the chambers; but also sometimes for more cubes. not very expensive, ive seen as little as 8$ a hole.
splaying, the process of changing a 2 bolt main, to a 4 bolt main. mainly to strengthen the bottom end. this refers to the main bering caps, 2 or 4 bolts holding them to the block. ive seen prices as high as 900 for this mod.
releaving, this is where a shop takes metal away from the block to make up for a change in stroke geometry. usually caused by stroking a motor (longer connecting rods, thinner pistons, to simulate a larger block) This can be very expensive, i couldnt even start to name prices.
Keying, in this reference the harmonic balencer, just to make it stronger. seen a high of 100.
there are other things machine shops can do to your block, but those are the main things most shops deal with. there is also balancing and blue printing.
as for springs to buy, i bought comp cams 986-16, price from comp cams is 95.06, but you can find them on the net for less. for the push rods, i wouldnt change the stock length unless you are doing something else with the motor. a drastic cam can sometimes require a different pushrod length, as could a differnt rocker ratio (ie 1.5 or 1.6 roller rockers). i would also consider the use of guide plates for the push rods. if you want comp cams guide plates, they are number 4800-8
hope that helps
12-31-2003, 08:32 AM
#4
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Join Date: May 2003
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I believe what you read about is the generation 1 small block chevy engine which did not have factory roller cams until later. Your confusion was probably with the LT-1 in the early 70's muscle cars. The LT-1 is Gen I and ours is the GenII LT1. Don't ask me why they had to use the same nomenclature. 
To put a roller cam in the Gen I block is what you described. The LT1 that we have as rskrause already explained, has the roller cam.
To make things more confusing is that Gen I blocks received roller cams in 1987. The crank seal in the back changed at that time as well.
The major points of difference in our LT1 versus Gen I engines is reverse coolant flow, and the dreaded opti spark distibutor driven at the front end of the camshaft located behind the water pump. Both features were later abandoned either due to problems or a better technology.
Now since you already have a roller cam, your need for stronger springs is a mute (or is that moot) point. Just changing springs because you heard they're better is not a good idea. True the roller cam has a faster cam lobe ramp and can suffer valve float and thus requires more agressive springs. However, too agressive springs can be detrimental to cam and lifter life.
When converting from flat tappet to roller cam, the length of the push rods will change since the roller lifters are longer. Since you already have rollers, the length issue is mute unless you change something in the valve train.
Let's see I think I got that all straight.
To put a roller cam in the Gen I block is what you described. The LT1 that we have as rskrause already explained, has the roller cam.
To make things more confusing is that Gen I blocks received roller cams in 1987. The crank seal in the back changed at that time as well.
The major points of difference in our LT1 versus Gen I engines is reverse coolant flow, and the dreaded opti spark distibutor driven at the front end of the camshaft located behind the water pump. Both features were later abandoned either due to problems or a better technology.
Now since you already have a roller cam, your need for stronger springs is a mute (or is that moot) point. Just changing springs because you heard they're better is not a good idea. True the roller cam has a faster cam lobe ramp and can suffer valve float and thus requires more agressive springs. However, too agressive springs can be detrimental to cam and lifter life.
When converting from flat tappet to roller cam, the length of the push rods will change since the roller lifters are longer. Since you already have rollers, the length issue is mute unless you change something in the valve train.
Let's see I think I got that all straight.
Last edited by slopokrodrigez; 12-31-2003 at 08:37 AM.
12-31-2003, 03:41 PM
#5
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Originally posted by rskrause
Your '94 LT1 already has a hydraulic roller cam setup. Do you mean you are thinking of going with a solid roller?
Rich Krause
Your '94 LT1 already has a hydraulic roller cam setup. Do you mean you are thinking of going with a solid roller?
Rich Krause
and do i have to match the cam w/ the rollers or are they all the same?
12-31-2003, 03:45 PM
#6
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Originally posted by NewbieWar
no i wanted hydraulic rollers just didnt know it already came with them... so if i were to get better ones, what do i have to choose from?
and do i have to match the cam w/ the rollers or are they all the same?
no i wanted hydraulic rollers just didnt know it already came with them... so if i were to get better ones, what do i have to choose from?
and do i have to match the cam w/ the rollers or are they all the same?
12-31-2003, 03:47 PM
#7
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Originally posted by Josh-'97 WS6
The hydraulic roller lifters will be the same regardless of cam, if that is what you're asking. Go with the Comp Cams R roller lifters. Then pick the hydraulic roller cam of your choice, with valve springs that will control the valvetrain at your intended RPM levels.
The hydraulic roller lifters will be the same regardless of cam, if that is what you're asking. Go with the Comp Cams R roller lifters. Then pick the hydraulic roller cam of your choice, with valve springs that will control the valvetrain at your intended RPM levels.
can someone help me find a spring that will support this?
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