Question about water pump drive gear??
#1
Question about water pump drive gear??
Well, I am planning on building a 383 soon as some of you know. I will be running an electric water pump, so there is no real need for that water pump drive gear. Do I have to put that gear back on with the shaft on it or can the thing be left off???
If it can be left off, what are the steps to take in order to leave that gear/shaft off and make sure it gets done right??? Do you have to plug the hole that they come out of??? Anybody ever done this before???
Thanks
If it can be left off, what are the steps to take in order to leave that gear/shaft off and make sure it gets done right??? Do you have to plug the hole that they come out of??? Anybody ever done this before???
Thanks
#2
Nevermind...answered my own question.
http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/CSI...mp/Default.htm
Anybody have any tips on this??
http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/CSI...mp/Default.htm
Anybody have any tips on this??
#3
I didn't go that route but in hindsight I would have. I assume you are still OBD2 so I believe you will have to stay with an overpriced timing chain setup unless you switch to OBD1 because of the cam position sensor. So with the added cost of a timing set for an LT1 you could always go to OBD1 and use a cheaper (higher quality) true roller set for the same $. You will need tuning anyhow if you go 383.
j/m .02
j/m .02
#4
I have heard the OBDI conversion on the 97's is a total BITCH..not sure why, but I have also heard that the 96's are a lot easier to convert. Any insight on why this may be??
As of now, I will stay OBDII for when I get done. I was going to get the Extreme Duty chain from GM for 200 bucks.
Tuning is my biggest fear right now. I will definitely be leaving the state of NE most likely to get a good tune done, but I dunno where.
As of now, I will stay OBDII for when I get done. I was going to get the Extreme Duty chain from GM for 200 bucks.
Tuning is my biggest fear right now. I will definitely be leaving the state of NE most likely to get a good tune done, but I dunno where.
#5
Dude, u dont have to get that high doller t/c. I just did the ele w/p, and cloyes conversion. All u have to do is delete the cps, it is only used to determine which cyl.is miss-firing. Its only needed for drivability probs., scanning etc. Send your pcm to pcmforless and have him delete it, totally remove the w/p drive gear plug the hole in cover,remove the reluctor ring on the crank gear. I paid I think like 80 bucks for my cloyes double roller!! u need tuning anyway so just have him delete the cps and u should be fine. Drop me a line if u need anymore info, I just got my pcm back from Brain and i'm going out and fire this thing up for the first time, been sitting since turkey day!!Later, Chris
#6
That cloyes chain sells for 400+ dollars on Tbyrne so how would I be saving money by gettng the cloyes??? The ED chain sells for about 200 bucks???
If there is something I don't know about this cloyes chain, let me know!!!
And the CPS I kind of want to keep...I have access to Tech 2 which I can go into the PCM and view which cylinder is missing which helps in diagnostics a LOT, which is why I don't want to switch to OBDI. If you knew how many problems I have had over the past year, you would understand why I want to keep the CPS function.
If there is something I don't know about this cloyes chain, let me know!!!
And the CPS I kind of want to keep...I have access to Tech 2 which I can go into the PCM and view which cylinder is missing which helps in diagnostics a LOT, which is why I don't want to switch to OBDI. If you knew how many problems I have had over the past year, you would understand why I want to keep the CPS function.
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