brandonppr

I have my engine out of the car right now and have everything off of it. It had an oil leak. Not bad, but I think the seal around the water pump driveshaft was leaking, which was throwing oil all over the place. It looked like the oil pan may have a small leak too. So I am changing all the seals and gaskets while its out.

My questions are:

-My oil pan gasket is a one piece rubber gasket, does it need any kind of sealant on it?

-Do I put the timing chain cover on first and then put the oil pan on?

-I have seen that others use a special tool to put the seal for the waterpump drive shaft in, do I need this tool to install it? Also, should this be installed on the engine or while the cover is off?

-I believe the threads of the water pump bolts need sealant, am I right to say that the oil pan and timing chain cover bolts do not need sealant on them when I install them?

-On the hub that goes on the crankshaft, I pulled it off while it was pointing strait up(at least best I could tell). If I put it back on the best I can the same way it came off, will it be OK? I don't notice any slots that it goes in that would make it go on a certain way. Am I missing something?

-Anything I need to watch out for?

Thanks for any help on this.

Guest47904

Many of us like to put a dab of RTV like Ultra Black at the 4 points of the front and back where the oil pan gasket humps over the rear main seal housing and the timing cover. Put a dab under the gasket and on top of the gasket before putting the pan on.

Therefore that answers the question about the timing cover goes on first then the oil pan.

One of the water pump bolts MIGHT go all the way through into the water jacket. If so, that one at least needs sealant. If in doubt, put sealant on all of them. Will not hurt.

Seals are easier to replace in a cover when it's off the engine. When you put the cover back on the engine, it's a good idea to protect the seal with a sleeve over the shaft. If you don't have the tool, use a thin piece of plastic rolled up around the shaft and a little bit of WD to help it slide on and pay attention to double lip seals to be sure the inner lip doesn't get folded over.

As far as the hub is concerned. It should be put on the same spot it came off. As long as you haven't turned the crank and you remember how you took it off, it should be fine. HOWEVER

While you're there, it would be a great idea to replace the timing chain set. Therefore you will have to rotate the crank.

I also suggest changing the freeze plugs while you have it out. As well as the rear main seal.

The only other thing I can suggest is put 1 at TDC when you put the distributor back on. Put it back on with the cap OFF and be sure the rotor is pointing down when it's seated. While there should be no way to get it wrong, we see it put on wrong here on this bulletin board all the time. It's just extra assurance that it went on correctly.

dizwiz24

Clean the rear main seal groove of oil and put a little bit of red loctite 360 degrees inside the seal groove to secure the rear main seal.

brandonppr

I got the cover back on today. I ended up using a 13mm deepwell socket to get the seal over the shaft. It took me a while, but I finally fiqured it out. The first few atempts with a smaller socket failed. It started pusing the seal out with each try. When I used the larger socket it slid right on very easily.

I put my water pump on, then about and hour later I realized that I had forgot to put the shaft coupler on. It was too late when I pulled it off. The sealant had already dried. I am going to have to get a new gasket tommorow.