d2stephen

Okay, I sent the heads off to be checked, came back fine, replaced gaskets, bolts, ect. Put everything back together and as I'm filling the radiator up with coolant, I hear a stream of water coming from under the car. I feel around the back of the motor and find that coolant is coming out of the back of the heads (keep in mind, the car hasn't even been started yet, no pressure what so ever)
This is really bothering me, I torqued everything to specs, and in the proper order, took my time and tried to do everything the right way.

So my question is, could I just pull the valve covers off, and re-torque the heads, or do I have to pull the heads off, clean everything up, and start all over again?

LT1_Z28_1994

Neither. You need to install/tighten the coolant crossover tube which should link the passages at the back of both cylinder heads.

d2stephen

Okay, just so I dont mess up any more, where exactly is that?

LT1_Z28_1994

See item 6 and associated parts...

http://shbox.com/1/95-97_hoses.jpg

This is a great pic of it installed directly below the oil pressure sensor...

http://shbox.com/1/op_sensor.jpg

d2stephen

Okay, I'm glad that it is what I thought it was. Now, my question about that is, I had one heck of a time trying to install those two bolts back in, they did not seen to want to go in no matter what I did, I feel that tube got bent or something along the way and was causing the bolts to not go on flush. Should I try to bend it back to normal as much as possible, buy a new line, or just tighten it down even harder than it already is and hope for the best? Also, in the first diagram you posted, what is the part name of #3-4? I have a part that I can't figure out what it connects to. When I shake it, I hear rattling, and little black charcoal looking pieces fall out of it. Was wondering if that was it..
I really appreciate the help.

jwindh1

You can tweak the tubing a little to provide for better bolt alignment.

I would hope that you didn't crossthread the bolts into the head and you need to also use thread sealant. There is no need to overtighten either.

Ken95Z28

Don't forget to install the rubber gaskets on each side of the bolt.
That helps to seal the bolt to the tube.
That bolt is a special bolt known as a banjo bolt. It has holes in it to get the water from the head to the crossover tube.

shoebox

3 and 4 is the hose and clamp from the steam line to the throttle body. If you have something with charcoal in it, that will be the EVAP vacuum hose. http://shbox.com/1/1996_evap.jpg
BTW, it should not have any charcoal in it.

d2stephen

Okay, I'll just have to try and bend it a little, I also did not cross-thread it, I made sure to avoid that on everything I did, and those rubber gaskets are installed. However, I did not use thread sealant.

And shoebox, I have been searching everywhere for that diagram, could not find it at all. Thank you for posting it. However, it does have charcoal in it..... So what does that mean?

shoebox

It means your EVAP solenoid was staying open during periods of high vacuum (which it shouldn't), causing charcoal to be drawn from the canister in the LH wheel well. You will need to blow out the line, vacumm switch and solenoid. You'll have to keep an eye on it to see if the computer reports improper vacuum conditions in the lines (especially DTC P1441).

d2stephen

Okay, I'll make sure to blow all that out. And actually, funny you mention the code, because I do have the code P1441.


Edit: Just tightened the banjo bolt down, it wasn't tightened all the way. Coolant is still coming out at a pretty decent rate, this is so aggravating.