Question about engine install from bottom
#1
Question about engine install from bottom
Engine is out, but will be going in soon. I bought a transmission jack this morning to help jack up trans along with engine and k member. (also for future clutch installs)
My question is where/how to support tubular k member so I dont jack up the powder coating. Any ideas? I am pretty sure it involves some wood on top of jack, but want to keep it balanced.
I pulled engine from top BTW, but with the k member swap I decided from bottom would be best for the install.
This build has taken a very long time, because of 101 reasons, but it seems the project has gained momentum, and it will be running soon. Here are a couple pics .
My question is where/how to support tubular k member so I dont jack up the powder coating. Any ideas? I am pretty sure it involves some wood on top of jack, but want to keep it balanced.
I pulled engine from top BTW, but with the k member swap I decided from bottom would be best for the install.
This build has taken a very long time, because of 101 reasons, but it seems the project has gained momentum, and it will be running soon. Here are a couple pics .
#2
Is that k-member resting on a furniture dolly? If so, that's what you want to put the engine onto with the trans. I've dropped my own engine twice, my dad's once, and my buddy's once now.
What you want to do is mount the engine and transmission to the kframe, and spin the kframe 90 degrees on that engine dolly. Have the kframe supported by one side where the castors are and then slap a 2x4 under the other side's castors to support the transmission. Slide the whole assembly under the car, and then use a cherry picker / engine hoist to lower the entire car down onto the k-frame.
Here's a ton of pics:
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album7.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album36.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album43.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album48.htm
We've also sat the kframe a little bit further back and then used a standard jack with a 2x4 ontop of the jack to balance the trans.
What you want to do is mount the engine and transmission to the kframe, and spin the kframe 90 degrees on that engine dolly. Have the kframe supported by one side where the castors are and then slap a 2x4 under the other side's castors to support the transmission. Slide the whole assembly under the car, and then use a cherry picker / engine hoist to lower the entire car down onto the k-frame.
Here's a ton of pics:
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album7.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album36.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album43.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album48.htm
We've also sat the kframe a little bit further back and then used a standard jack with a 2x4 ontop of the jack to balance the trans.
#3
Is that k-member resting on a furniture dolly? If so, that's what you want to put the engine onto with the trans. I've dropped my own engine twice, my dad's once, and my buddy's once now.
What you want to do is mount the engine and transmission to the kframe, and spin the kframe 90 degrees on that engine dolly. Have the kframe supported by one side where the castors are and then slap a 2x4 under the other side's castors to support the transmission. Slide the whole assembly under the car, and then use a cherry picker / engine hoist to lower the entire car down onto the k-frame.
Here's a ton of pics:
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album7.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album36.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album43.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album48.htm
We've also sat the kframe a little bit further back and then used a standard jack with a 2x4 ontop of the jack to balance the trans.
What you want to do is mount the engine and transmission to the kframe, and spin the kframe 90 degrees on that engine dolly. Have the kframe supported by one side where the castors are and then slap a 2x4 under the other side's castors to support the transmission. Slide the whole assembly under the car, and then use a cherry picker / engine hoist to lower the entire car down onto the k-frame.
Here's a ton of pics:
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album7.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album36.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album43.htm
http://meissenation.com/projectlt1/Album48.htm
We've also sat the kframe a little bit further back and then used a standard jack with a 2x4 ontop of the jack to balance the trans.
Ok that makes sense. I was looking to lift engine up, but your actually lowering the car down and then putting bolts in. So are the k member bolts accessible easily on each side of dolly?
OBTW thanks for the links, pictures help alot.
Last edited by Dave1980; 10-13-2009 at 04:29 PM.
#4
engine
just make sure the engine is up high enough off the ground top start with, the car can't go all the way to the ground. I stack a few 2x4 on the furniture dolly. It works great with another dolly under the tranny. You should have it in in about 30 min.
#5
Also, remember when you're lining it all up that the engine hugs the passenger side - driver's side has the steering knuckle linkage. The first two times we always tried to put the engine "in the center" according to the intake manifold... and each time we'd have to scoot it to the passenger side when it started coming down.
#6
Excellent info! I am ready to do this now. And yes the locating tabs are on the tubular k.
I am debating pulling the harness from engine bay and attaching to engine prior to installation. As of now the compressor and accessory bracket are still in the bay also.
I basically initially disassembled and removed from top and left harness and a/c in bay. Am I going about this the hard way? I am trying to keep the a/c connected, but if it is going to make a world of difference I can remove it. It is just a hot **** in Houston, the a/c is like gold here.
I am debating pulling the harness from engine bay and attaching to engine prior to installation. As of now the compressor and accessory bracket are still in the bay also.
I basically initially disassembled and removed from top and left harness and a/c in bay. Am I going about this the hard way? I am trying to keep the a/c connected, but if it is going to make a world of difference I can remove it. It is just a hot **** in Houston, the a/c is like gold here.
#7
A trick you can use is to buy some long bolts with the same thread as those mounting the K-member to the car and cut the heads off. Then thread them into the bolt holes finger tight. These wil act as guides and make it a little easier. Once everthing is close you can pull these out and the cradle bolts will just twist right in....
#8
Excellent info! I am ready to do this now. And yes the locating tabs are on the tubular k.
I am debating pulling the harness from engine bay and attaching to engine prior to installation. As of now the compressor and accessory bracket are still in the bay also.
I basically initially disassembled and removed from top and left harness and a/c in bay. Am I going about this the hard way? I am trying to keep the a/c connected, but if it is going to make a world of difference I can remove it. It is just a hot **** in Houston, the a/c is like gold here.
I am debating pulling the harness from engine bay and attaching to engine prior to installation. As of now the compressor and accessory bracket are still in the bay also.
I basically initially disassembled and removed from top and left harness and a/c in bay. Am I going about this the hard way? I am trying to keep the a/c connected, but if it is going to make a world of difference I can remove it. It is just a hot **** in Houston, the a/c is like gold here.
If you do decide to go this route, you'll have the obvious stuff in the engine bay to disconnect as well as there's 4 connections on the inside passenger kick panel area. If you remove the kick panel - the long one that runs along the seat - there's like 3-4 modules right there that have plugs going to them from the engine harness and then there's a little 2 wire plug for hvac. If you remove the PCM and have someone gently tug on the harness from the engine bay while you're in the car looking at all the wires, you'll see what ones need to come out. Shbox has an awesome picture with the harness and where it all goes: http://shbox.com/1/harness.htm
A trick you can use is to buy some long bolts with the same thread as those mounting the K-member to the car and cut the heads off. Then thread them into the bolt holes finger tight. These wil act as guides and make it a little easier. Once everthing is close you can pull these out and the cradle bolts will just twist right in....
#9
What I did was to build a wooden stand for the k-member and with a jack roll the engine and tranny back under the car(a jack under the tranny too). Like so...
Once in position, I lowered the body close to the engine, then set the body on jackstands. Then I put a chain across the heads and pulled the engine to the body with the cherry picker(jacking up the tranny as I go up with the cherry picker). Like so...
This way you can easily swing the engine to the alignment pins and put the bolts into the K-member when the entire assembly starts to lift up on the body.
Once in position, I lowered the body close to the engine, then set the body on jackstands. Then I put a chain across the heads and pulled the engine to the body with the cherry picker(jacking up the tranny as I go up with the cherry picker). Like so...
This way you can easily swing the engine to the alignment pins and put the bolts into the K-member when the entire assembly starts to lift up on the body.
#11
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