Ok you guys i put 1.6 rr on last night and now it idles a lot rougher than it did. and it doesn't start right away, but that might be the elbow. it also seem a litte sluggish at the bottom end. it doesn't tap or any thing, is there any thing i can do to make it idle smoother so that my dad dosen't find out i did this. also this is off topic but the guid plates for my push rods are messed up and my brother thinks i have a blown head gasket, any thoughts on that you be great. sorry for the long post but i need help fast.


thanks,
Dustin

 

Re adjust your roller rockers, they may be overtightened. Remember that zero lash isnt when the pushrod stop spinning, but when you can't move it vertically up and down. If you did the spinning method and turned it 3/4, try backing out each bolt 1/4 of a turn. Your valves are probably not closing all the ways causing your rough idle as well as make your car "sluggish".

 

thanks for the advise that is greatly apperitiated(sp) i will try that.
but is you car suppose to idle different with those or not?

thanks

 

o yea also i thought that 0 lash was when you couldn't spin the push rod any more is that why it is running rough.

 

Yep, I did the same thing my first time. Also, with the 1.6 Roller Rockers, you could be getting "coil bind". Where the springs bottom out at max lift on the stock cam and springs. Let us know how it runs after you re-adjust your valves. I'm curious about the other issues you brought forth...

 

It may be easier for you to set them with the motor running. For the inexperienced person its kinda tricky to do it with the motor turned off because the lifters bleed off as you go through the sequence hand cranking the motor then when your done most of them appear to have loosened up. With the motor running they stay pumped up, all you would have to do assuming that they are too tight is loosen the rocker until it begins to chatter loudly, tighten it slightly until it stops chattering then go an additional 1/4 to 3/4 turn and lock it down with the allen screw. It really isn't all that messy either not like what I'd heard it was anyway, you may get a little on the exhaust manifold but for the most part the oil barely shoots out to the end of the rocker arm while idling. You can slide a piece of cardboard between the exhaust manifold and head just for extra insurance, it'll be fine no longer than what it takes to set them (5 or 6 min.) The only drawback to this procedure is taking everything apart like the alt. and air pump plumbing just to get the valvecovers off then putting it back together to run the motor then repeating the process to put the VC's back on, which you may be alright leaving the air plumbing apart while you set the rockers, I reattached mine to be safe. The alt. was the most time consumer of the two.

 

thanks i will reajust my rockers tonight but how do i reajust my valves. also when running right can you tell a difference in sound between stock and 1.6. my dad will kill me if he finds out i did this to my car. he is on vacation and i decided to do it while he was gone

ps how do i know if i'm getting "coil bind" and how do i fix it.

thanks in advance.

 

Adjusting the rockers does adjust the valves. There isn't any procedure to adjust the valves apart from the rocker arms. They shouldn't make any sound difference through the exhaust... however, you may hear more "clacking" or rocker noise directly from under the valve covers. But it isn't that bad or noticeable... definately not with the hood down.

 

You might get some more internal engine noise, I would definetely get an LT4 knock module. Your dad won't find out just by listening to the car.

 

Coil Bind - Here is a rule of thumb. Put on and adjust your roller rockers. With your engine off, rotate the crank until the rocker arm on the desired cylinder is pushing the valve open at it's maximum lift... meaning it won't push down any more and before it lifts up. Then, take a small paper clip and bend it open.... then slide it in between the spring space on that rocker that is pushed down. If the paper clip goes through without force, then there should be enough clearance.

A better way is to use a feeler guage... or even better, install springs that will work with your set up like LT4 springs. But, without the extra money and effort, just check for the space in the spring coils with a paper clip.

 

your exhaust side is what is going to be close. My budy is running stock springs but I would not recommend it.

 

Just put my 1.6 RRs today... no coil bind on stock springs. They do push in far though. With a feeler guage, there is over 0.35 in the coils when the rocker is at TDC. It will "over-exercise" the spring but I'll be changing the set up this summer anyways.

 

thanks for the help but why would i need an lt4 knock sensor. will it hurt anything if i don't get that.

 

If the rockers generate noise that the regular knock module interprets as knock, then it will cause timing retard during the time it hears the noise.

The LT4 module is a little more forgiving and tries to ignore the rocker noise, but still gives you protection from real spark knock.

The only real way you can know if you need it is by monitoring the knock counts with a scan tool.

 

cool thanks a lot shoebox. how much is an lt4 knock senser, where can i get it and how do i install it.

thanks for the help in advance