ok, im installing a CC 230/236 cam, using the OEM lifters, and switching to 1.6 RR. what size pushrods do i need? OEM length or different? also just exactly how is push rod length checked? the shank part of it or from tip to tip? thanks

 

nobody??

 

PR length is something that you need to check to get the EXACT length. Use an adjustable PR checker and start at 7.150" and adjust the length until you get the wear pattern most centered in the valve. Go .050" shorter and watch the wear pattern move. If it gets worse, go .050 longer. It could be anywhere from 7.00 to 7.250 depending on everything done but a 7.150" (Comp 7939-16) is what I suggest for people that do not know how (or do not wanna take the time) to do this.

look at post # 5 on this page.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=327734

It tells how to do it. I am not sure why they have this info posted on an LS1 website since the LS1's use non adjustable rockers and only use PR length for lash and NOT to correct geometry. This is the correct method for an LT1, SB Chevy or most engines with adjustable valve trane.

 

thanks Lloyd....a little off topic, but what kinda of gains would i see if i have you port my intake? It's a 95 intake so it already has the bigger ports...the ports on my heads are just slightly bigger, like maybe a centimeter larger...is it worth the time and money? thanks

 

When I installed 1.6 RR Pro mags on my bone stock heads the stock 7.200" were to long making for bad geometry. I had to use 7.050" to get the correct geometry.

If you need 7.050" chromeoly pushrods I have some with less than 3K for sale. Send me a PM.

 

the car has been bored to a 355 and has RGR stage 2 heads so i honestly dont know what size i need yet

 

stock length pushrods are 7.1" I put the hot cam kit in and new lifters and still bought stock length pushrods just hardened. thats what you should do.

 

Stock length is 7.2.

 

this is correct.

 

just exactly how is a push rod measured now? is it the shank part of it or from tip to tip? just curious.

 

That is not entirely true. There is a way to calculate more exactly than using a PR checker see this post from the advanced engine tech forum. However according to the posts there the push rod checkers are close enough to accurate to not be a problem. And a pushrod checker is 10000x easier than and much more difficult to **** up majorly.