LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Pulling motor from bottom (pics)

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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 01:41 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
Wow there is a whole lot of "ghetto" going on in this thread.


Rusnrno is doing it the safe and correct way, in fact thats almost the exact same way I did it.

Some key points here:
1. Use some ramps under the rear tires. Not your wheels
2. Use jack stands under the front as high as they will go.
3. Use a cherry picker and lift the front of the chassis up by the support just in front of the radiator to pull the k-member/tranny out. Some weight in the trunk will lessen the weight of the front too.
4. Use a moving cart or even better a ATV jack under the k-member and a floorjack under the tranny.
5. Take a flare nut wrench, heat it and close it up just a bit so it barely fits over the rear brake line fitting. Use the vice grips to clamp the wrench tightly over the flare nut and it will easily crack loose with some muscle and not scar the nut.

do you have anything nice to say? wheels for the back are not ghetto. Yeah I would never trust my car to be supported by WHEELS.. thats just stupid, IMO. If the brake lines come loose easily, then no need to do all that junk.
Old Nov 16, 2009 | 07:41 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by camaroz28383
the car can roll off ramps it wont roll off rims

Use the parking brake. Problem solved.

Originally Posted by ascastil
$20 wal mart ramps=whole lotta ghetto!
Please explain this without sounding too stupid.

Originally Posted by camaroz28383
wal mart sells ramps for $20???? those are on of the things you see in the store go wow 20 bucks then go O **** I'll be under the car then say no thanks I'll by something made of metal. Personally I'd trust cinder blocks more then walmart plastic
The name brand Rhino Ramps they sell are good for 4000 pounds.
http://www.rhinoramps.com/8000.html
Devide that roughly in half and and there is no possibility of overload or failure. Using cinder blocks under a car is simply retarded and the proof is easily found with a google search.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=cinder+block+jack+stand

Originally Posted by meissenation
Well, there you go.. I've put my hub on twice using a hammer.

Just because there's a "right way" that the engineers and white collars do it doesn't mean the "backyard mechanic" way doesn't work just as good - if not better
The risk of using a hammer is possible damage to the front main bearing and the thrust bearing. You got lucky. The correct way is a hub install tool or some all thread, a couple nuts and bolts that costs every bit of $1.50 or so plus tax. Why take a chance?

Originally Posted by GhostZ28
do you have anything nice to say? wheels for the back are not ghetto. Yeah I would never trust my car to be supported by WHEELS.. thats just stupid, IMO. If the brake lines come loose easily, then no need to do all that junk.
All I am doing is defending my opinion which one can accept or reject. Maybe I should have clarified, that if the rear brake line is seized to the ABS module, which is amost always the case, then there are better ways of breaking it loose than using vice grips (as shown in a pic in this thread) that will scar and damage the flare nut which might result in having to cut the rake line and reflaring it.

It is simply my opinion that wheels/tires under the rear to support the car are ghetto when you can use the correct tool, in this case ramps. Its the engineer in me so sue me. Use whatever you want. I was simply trying to add useful advice, based on experience to the thread. I will now leave your thread. Good luck.
Old Nov 16, 2009 | 11:30 PM
  #33  
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nah im just being a ***** i guess, all discussion is good discussion.
Old Nov 17, 2009 | 09:05 AM
  #34  
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I pulled mine the same way and it only took me about 2 hours to get it out. It's so much easier then pulliing it through the top of the vehicle
Old Nov 17, 2009 | 10:43 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
Just because someones write up states to do this, it does not make it the best or safest way to do it. You might be subjecting the tires to forces in the sidewalls which they were not designed to handle. Yes this is a stretch, but my $20 walmart plastic ramps will do the job perfectly fine and not risk any damage to my wheels or tires.

I have seen balancer hub install write ups that say to hammer the hub on. Nuff said.

Personally, I would not trust any write up that would have me doing something as WTF as this. I prefer to use the correct tools that were designed for the task at hand.
Sorry I'll have to disagree on this one. I'll bet a million shade tree mechs. have done this and I have never heard of a tire or wheel being damaged!!! If you want to get technical the "right" way to do this is with a two or four post lift. But not many can afford to have these installed in their home garage.
If your Camaro pulls .9G's your putting around 6650lb. of force on the two outside tires/wheels. Given the safety margin built into the tire/wheel I doubt putting the back of the car on them could possibly hurt!!
And before we had cool tools for installing balancers, they were amost all tapped on with a BRASS hammer or punch.
Old Nov 29, 2009 | 06:35 PM
  #36  
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which sensors are these connectors for? and how the hell do I remove them without breaking them? PS if your oil looks like this, time to buy a new engine =)
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 12:18 AM
  #37  
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On the passenger front there is a bolt that sticks out about an inch and a half... snagged my power steering line and gave it a slight bend. Not comfortable with the bend, I replaced the line... but something to look out for when dropping the engine.
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 08:34 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by GhostZ28

The first picture is your oil level sensor - there's a clip plug that plugs into the end of it. Here's an e-bay auction link showing a brand new LT1 oil level sensor and you can see the end where the plug and clip go. That should give you an idea on how to get the plug unplugged on yours.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-03...#ht_1909wt_799

Here's a picture (courtesy of Shbox) that shows the oil level sensor plug:
http://shbox.com/1/harness8.jpg

Second pic is the knock sensor plug - squeeze each side where the arrows are to make it an oblong instead of perfect circle and it will pop off the knock sensor.
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 11:05 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Z28SORR
If your Camaro pulls .9G's your putting around 6650lb. of force on the two outside tires/wheels.
Unless I don't understand this correctly, this is way overstated. At rest, your 347;0 pound car puts an average of 867.5 pounds on each of its' wheels with 0 lateral g's. When cornering at 0.9G, you get an average lateral force equal to 90% of the weight of the vehicle on each of the 4 tires, unless you have two of them off the ground. Sure, weight transfer affects that average but I can't see how a 3470 pound car can generate 6650 pounds of lateral force. It would appear to me that the number is somewhere in the region of 780 pounds per wheel.

I'm sure once Injuneer sees this he can correct my faulty thinking and straighten out this equation.....
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 11:49 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by meissenation
Second pic is the knock sensor plug - squeeze each side where the arrows are to make it an oblong instead of perfect circle and it will pop off the knock sensor.
Isn't that second pic the plug for the transmission electronics?

But removing it is as stated- squeeze to elongate...
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 05:02 PM
  #41  
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awesome thanks
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 11:01 PM
  #42  
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Thanks a lot! The low oil level is a PITA whats the trick? I used a combo of yanking the wires and a tiny screwdriver to pry back the retaining clip or whatever you'd call it. by the way, look what I ended up buying to make this whole thing easier..
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 10:29 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by SmokeyZ
Isn't that second pic the plug for the transmission electronics?

But removing it is as stated- squeeze to elongate...
Yeah you know looking at it again you're 100% correct - that's the transmission plug. Knock sensor is more oval shape.
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by bw_hunter
Unless I don't understand this correctly, this is way overstated. At rest, your 347;0 pound car puts an average of 867.5 pounds on each of its' wheels with 0 lateral g's. When cornering at 0.9G, you get an average lateral force equal to 90% of the weight of the vehicle on each of the 4 tires, unless you have two of them off the ground. Sure, weight transfer affects that average but I can't see how a 3470 pound car can generate 6650 pounds of lateral force. It would appear to me that the number is somewhere in the region of 780 pounds per wheel.

I'm sure once Injuneer sees this he can correct my faulty thinking and straighten out this equation.....
You are correct. This is what happens when you don't double check your numbers. I used 3500lb. for the car weight so at .9G's you would have 3150lb. not 6650! $^&o))_*##!!!!!!! Anyway most of this weight is being carried on the outside TWO tires not equally on all four, so you still have around 1575lb. per wheel. I'm sure you've seen the stunt drivers, driving their car up on two wheels. In this case ALL of the weight is on the two wheels with the loads almost completely sideways.
Bottom line is that your cars wheels/tires are more then capable of handling the weight!!
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 12:58 PM
  #45  
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"New"/90k mi engine came in today! I hope to get the transmission bolted up and the whole thing secured to the kmember before I get too tired to work anymore



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