The lines going into the ABS are easy to remove if you torque on them while tapping the housing near the line with a hammer. I figured this out after I completely rounded one with a line wrench, frees them right up.

 

I'm not a big fan of cinder blocks on top of floor jacks either but those jack stands on top of car ramps doesn't look very safe.

I used a pair of spacesaver spare tires and my strut to brace to make rolling the engine/K-member assembly easier.


I used some garbage can dollys under the K-member to roll the assembly out.


A heavy duty strap is less likely to damage sheet metal than a chain while lifting.


Here are a few more pics from my F Body engine R&R experience.



I had to take my car out of the garage to make room for a donor car. Bolting the engine-less K-member back in the car made moving it around easy.


Taking the time to clean and paint while it's out is well worth the trouble.

 

Great pictures! Its good to see so many F-bodies up in the air, it goes to show all those who want to DIY just how many people have made it through the whole deal. I think its interesting to see who needed the extra 3 inches and removed the radiator air-dam.

 

Do NOT do what he did to remove the engine, that is very dangerous.

 

yea no cinder blocks for me I'll be using a hoist

 

 

Wow there is a whole lot of "ghetto" going on in this thread.


Rusnrno is doing it the safe and correct way, in fact thats almost the exact same way I did it.

Some key points here:
1. Use some ramps under the rear tires. Not your wheels
2. Use jack stands under the front as high as they will go.
3. Use a cherry picker and lift the front of the chassis up by the support just in front of the radiator to pull the k-member/tranny out. Some weight in the trunk will lessen the weight of the front too.
4. Use a moving cart or even better a ATV jack under the k-member and a floorjack under the tranny.
5. Take a flare nut wrench, heat it and close it up just a bit so it barely fits over the rear brake line fitting. Use the vice grips to clamp the wrench tightly over the flare nut and it will easily crack loose with some muscle and not scar the nut.

 

Most of the writeups available on the internet show the rear tires on a set of wheels. It actually works great, and I prefer using the wheels than ramps. I used wheels with tires on them, not just the bare rim, and I like doing that because it gives you enough space on both sides to stick a 2x4 against the tires to ensure it won't roll back and forth. When the torque arm changes it's angle, the tires are going to roll forward or backward regardless of having the emergency brake set.

 

Just because someones write up states to do this, it does not make it the best or safest way to do it. You might be subjecting the tires to forces in the sidewalls which they were not designed to handle. Yes this is a stretch, but my $20 walmart plastic ramps will do the job perfectly fine and not risk any damage to my wheels or tires.

I have seen balancer hub install write ups that say to hammer the hub on. Nuff said.

Personally, I would not trust any write up that would have me doing something as WTF as this. I prefer to use the correct tools that were designed for the task at hand.

 

As far as the fuel lines go, you could have just taken the fuel rail off the intake and set it aside; no reason to take the lines off.

Putting the rear tires up on wheels worked well for me, too.... I actually think it's safer than ramps because it allows the car to rotate without the possibility of it moving forward or backwards..

 

the car can roll off ramps it wont roll off rims and if the 1/2" that the sidwall moves before the rim contacts the ground hurts the tire then you got crappy tires its generally recomended that you use an old steal rim not your new shiney $600 a pair rims though

by the way its not in one write up saying to use rims its in every write up

 

$20 wal mart ramps=whole lotta ghetto!

 

wal mart sells ramps for $20???? those are on of the things you see in the store go wow 20 bucks then go O **** I'll be under the car then say no thanks I'll by something made of metal. Personally I'd trust cinder blocks more then walmart plastic

 

Cherry picker, big jackstands and a heavy-duty cart worked for me.
Yes, I used a set of stock TA rims to hold the rear end in place ... ghetto or not, they worked great.
I'd trust them over any junk you find at Walmart.

I did use a proper hub installation tool.
I've borrowed that silly tool from the parts store so many times over the years that I just went ahead and bought one.
It sure makes the install much easier.
I don't think using a hammer is the best idea, but it's pretty common practice among both shady trees and small shops.

 

Well, there you go.. I've put my hub on twice using a hammer.

Just because there's a "right way" that the engineers and white collars do it doesn't mean the "backyard mechanic" way doesn't work just as good - if not better