I tried two different rocker studs, so I don't think it's a bent stud. And also, moving the same stud to a different hole doesn't create that half-pattern on the corresponding valve.

I noticed that the roller sits flat until I snug up the nut, then it tips ever so slightly. Everything seems to be pointing to the rocker stud hole. How would you even fix something like that? Is it even possible for a machine shop to retap the hole while indicating off of the valve to make them parallel? It's soooo close that I'd like to just go with it, but it makes me a little uneasy.


Javier - the checking spring didn't work so well. It was too light to leave a mark on the stem, but still stiff enough to compress the lifter. The worst of both worlds! Solid lifter gave best results.

 

I guess I'll give the checking springs a shot, if it doesn't work I imagine I can turn one of my oem lifters into a solid lifter with some quick steel....

I'm also using comp lifters.. how did you get the best measurement for the cup depth?

 

I didn't have a good way to measure the actual lifter roller-to-cup seat distance so I put the Comp lifter in place, put the rocker arm on, and with the lifter on the cam base circle, made a mark on the valve stem. Just kind of rolled the roller tip a little - makes a thin line. Put the solid lifter in place and did the same. Compared the two lines and adjusted the solid cup height a little. I added another disc under the cup from another lifter - had to leave the clip off though and be careful not to lose any little pieces!

 

Not a bad thought.. I have a couple bad comp lifters as well, so I can probably even use a comp lifter cup in an OEM lifter to get rid of that variance, then adjust height.

Thanks for the ideas Jeff, I've got some work to do tonight, gotta get those pushrods ordered tomorrow!

 

I need to get mine ordered too! Did you check just one valve or multiple? Just wondered if you saw any markings like mine on just part of the stem. Or maybe you don't want to know.....

 

Jeff, the 7.2's looked even a little too long for the stock deck and milled heads, but I never got the opportunity to measure 'em before the failure anyways.

With the zero decked block and the milled LE2's I just know they're going to be too long.

Anyone need a set of magnum 7.2"?

 

Same situation here. I "checked" them with just the milled LE2 heads and they seemed okay, but that was done with the engine in the car and just looking at them not making marks.

This time with a zero decked block and milled heads they're definitely too long. And this time there are **** measurements being done. I mean measurements being done very closely and repetitively, not actual measurements of the anus.

 

I hear ya.. I've been a little redundant with my checking this time, but I dont' want any failures so..

 

I'm loving that you two are about 2 steps ahead of me on your builds.
I can just log in every day and have my questions anwered and don't even have to type.

 

[Jeff95TA], your mailbox full?

 

Take one of your old lifters and take the guts out of them(2). Cut a 3/8" bolt just long enough to let the cap and locking clip go in its slot and use that for your checking lifter. Ya will have the same lifter ya will run.Save them and ya will have a set next time.

 

Oops, cleared it out.

 

Ok heres the deal on these things as far as I was informed by the machinist that did my last set of SBC heads. You drop these things onto your stud with your old pushrods on place and in theory, if you had the correct length pushrod from the start, the tool would touch both the pushrod and the valve at the same time. Now we all know that isnt going to happen. So,.......the difference in the measurements, which are taken with feeler gauges at whichever component DOES NOT touch are what you use to calculate the correct length. For instance,.....in your case.......you've lost deck height and head material so we know you'll need shorter P.R.'s........so the tool is going to touch the pushrod first. Measure the gap between the valve and the tool and subtract that from "tester" pushrod and you have your new length. Im not so sure that these tools will work on an LT1 though, unless the valvetrain geometry is the same as SBC Gen I. Anybody? Would be nice to know since I already own the tool.

 

lol i got creative and did something similar before I read this

thanks as usual tho!

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=450641

 

I have a question now...

I set this up and I was following the car craft article.. bring the lifter to the base circle of the cam, then just set the rocker on and wiggle back and forth without setting preload or anything?

That seems like an odd way of doing it to me.

I went ahead and used my 7.2" pr's first.. painted the valve stem tip, set my rockers and set lash as I'm going to run it. This gave me a reading towards the exhaust side, which I know is too long.

If I do it the car craft method I get a narrow line in the center of the stem...

I think with lash set is the way to do this? With my "solid" lifter of course