Proper new valvetrain break-in....
#1
Proper new valvetrain break-in....
Hey guys... installing my new cam, rockers, valve springs, and timing set this weekend.
My basic plan is to get everything installed by Saturday night and leave the RTV on the intake manifold to cure overnight and crank it up Sunday early afternoon. I'll also be using regular dino oil for break-in. How many miles do I wait before putting Mobil 1 back in?
I know you're supposed to hold the engine at about 2000 rpm for 10 minutes straight before taking her out. What else is needed for break-in? I know the cam itself needs no break-in, but how about the valvesprings?
Let me know guys, I want to go ***** out on my car ASAP, but I also want to make sure it's done right
My basic plan is to get everything installed by Saturday night and leave the RTV on the intake manifold to cure overnight and crank it up Sunday early afternoon. I'll also be using regular dino oil for break-in. How many miles do I wait before putting Mobil 1 back in?
I know you're supposed to hold the engine at about 2000 rpm for 10 minutes straight before taking her out. What else is needed for break-in? I know the cam itself needs no break-in, but how about the valvesprings?
Let me know guys, I want to go ***** out on my car ASAP, but I also want to make sure it's done right
#2
Comp Cams makes a special cam lube (creamy colored paste) that comes in a small container with a lid for about $9 that I'd recommend. Use that on the cam lobes and journels
Be certain to fill the lifters with oil before installing. Use an oil can with a small spout. WHile holding the lifter with roller down, insert oil into the small hole (on the side) until it pushes out the top. Fill them all and keep them up right until you install them. After the valve train is installed I pour oil over the rockers and springs to soak them good.
I recommend Valvoline 40w Race oil for break-in and change after a few hundred miles.
Be certain to fill the lifters with oil before installing. Use an oil can with a small spout. WHile holding the lifter with roller down, insert oil into the small hole (on the side) until it pushes out the top. Fill them all and keep them up right until you install them. After the valve train is installed I pour oil over the rockers and springs to soak them good.
I recommend Valvoline 40w Race oil for break-in and change after a few hundred miles.
#3
I think the biggest thing when breaking in a cam is to heat cycle it. If you did not replace any bearings, then they of course need no break in. I would start the car like you said, run it for 10 to 15 min at 2000, then change the oil. This will get all the assembly lube out of the oil. You do not want to drive around with that in your oil. After the initial break in, drive it for 20 min, and let if cool off. Do this a few times. After 500 miles, change the oil again.
I would go ahead and put the Mobil 1 back in after the 500 miles.
The only time you don't want to use the model 1 is if you re ring it. The Mobil 1 is to "slippery" and the rings will never seat right.
I would go ahead and put the Mobil 1 back in after the 500 miles.
The only time you don't want to use the model 1 is if you re ring it. The Mobil 1 is to "slippery" and the rings will never seat right.
#4
So buy 10 quarts of regular oil pretty much
Instead of buying a million filters can I just use the filter I have on the car right now (only has 2k miles on it) for initial startup? Then after the first oil change I will change the filter out for a new one.
I'll have to get some GM or other generic assembly lube probably b/c I'm not sure where I can get comp cams stuff around here anywhere locally.
So when can I actually "get on it"... after a few of those 20 minute heat cycles? 100 miles or so? I just want to make sure I don't jump on the throttle prematurely.
Good idea on soaking the springs / rockers... will also take care of the lifters.. thanks!
Any more suggetions or advice are welcome guys.. I want to do this right.
Instead of buying a million filters can I just use the filter I have on the car right now (only has 2k miles on it) for initial startup? Then after the first oil change I will change the filter out for a new one.
I'll have to get some GM or other generic assembly lube probably b/c I'm not sure where I can get comp cams stuff around here anywhere locally.
So when can I actually "get on it"... after a few of those 20 minute heat cycles? 100 miles or so? I just want to make sure I don't jump on the throttle prematurely.
Good idea on soaking the springs / rockers... will also take care of the lifters.. thanks!
Any more suggetions or advice are welcome guys.. I want to do this right.
#5
I think oil is all you need on a roller cam. IMO, the lube is more important on the lobes for flat tappet cams. You want the rollers to roll on the cam, not skid. Either way, you are probably not going to hurt anything. Comp Cams even recommends straight oil on the journals.
New springs need to be heat cycled a few times. Obviously, if you heat cycle the springs, you are also heat cycling everything else.
The lobes of the cam are lubed by oil splash. That is why you want to keep the revs up initially, so that they get lots of oil.
New springs need to be heat cycled a few times. Obviously, if you heat cycle the springs, you are also heat cycling everything else.
The lobes of the cam are lubed by oil splash. That is why you want to keep the revs up initially, so that they get lots of oil.
#6
Originally posted by Don 97 SS
Be certain to fill the lifters with oil before installing. Use an oil can with a small spout. WHile holding the lifter with roller down, insert oil into the small hole (on the side) until it pushes out the top. Fill them all and keep them up right until you install them. After the valve train is installed I pour oil over the rockers and springs to soak them good.
Be certain to fill the lifters with oil before installing. Use an oil can with a small spout. WHile holding the lifter with roller down, insert oil into the small hole (on the side) until it pushes out the top. Fill them all and keep them up right until you install them. After the valve train is installed I pour oil over the rockers and springs to soak them good.
#7
Originally posted by jpolz
Is this necessary if you're re-using the old lifters, or just when installing new ones. I'm following the StreetIllusions guide. If I do, I guess I gotta pull my intake and re-do it.
Is this necessary if you're re-using the old lifters, or just when installing new ones. I'm following the StreetIllusions guide. If I do, I guess I gotta pull my intake and re-do it.
#8
Originally posted by shoebox
Your old lifters should retain enough oil to where there should be no problem.
Your old lifters should retain enough oil to where there should be no problem.
#9
Originally posted by Don 97 SS
I would agree with SHoebox, but would also suggest you consider getting a new set of lifters. I know it is not necessary, but for $200 or so it might be a wise investment. How many miles on your current set of lifters?
I would agree with SHoebox, but would also suggest you consider getting a new set of lifters. I know it is not necessary, but for $200 or so it might be a wise investment. How many miles on your current set of lifters?
#10
I might be in the minority on this one, but I'd play it safe and replace them with a set of Comp Lifters P/N 850-16 or something similar. Roller lifters don't wear like the flat tappets but it only takes one of sixteen to go bad to ruin your day.
Let's see what others say.
Let's see what others say.
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