LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Prices and Info on 383???

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Old Apr 19, 2004 | 08:36 AM
  #1  
97BLKZ28's Avatar
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From: FT. Collins
Thumbs up Prices and Info on 383???

anyone know where i could get a good bang for the buck deal on a 383 stroker kit. and also could some of you with 383 lt1 offer some insight on what i might need to change or do while i am performing my rebuild. and finally whats some of you 383 Lt1 guys hp rating.. thanks
Old Apr 19, 2004 | 09:10 AM
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If anyone responded it would be to ask many questions. It is wise to examine your goals and consider the potential for trouble aftermarket parts can cause. Everything needs to be taken into account as a whole. You need to work closely with your builder. If you are doing the work youself Thunder Racing has most of what you need. I am on my second build myself.
Old Apr 19, 2004 | 10:06 AM
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Like the previous post said, to get useful answers you need to post a lot more detail. Are you looking for a place to do the whole job, parts to do it yourself, or what? How do you plan to use the car? What is your budget? Etc.

Anyway, more hp is going to be in the heads and cam, not in the shortblock.

Rich Krause
Old Apr 21, 2004 | 11:30 PM
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97BLKZ28's Avatar
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well here we go

if i were to buy a good 383 kit who would be an affordable but not weak kit.

ive heard nu tek has a good 383 kit, but ill take any other suggestions
Old Apr 21, 2004 | 11:34 PM
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Call Bruce at Aggressive Performance (586)771-9122. He will help you out.
Old Apr 22, 2004 | 07:51 AM
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It sounds like you have a good setup already. I don't remember hearing anything good about Nu Tek. Like Rich said you can't make much more horsepower with the stroker. I was wanting to be different but the extra money for rod clearancing and oil pan are probably not well spent dollars. I wanted forged to spray nitrous and did not see as much extra cost going to 383.
Old Apr 22, 2004 | 08:21 AM
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If you can assemble and engine and take your time to look everything over good and clearance etc yourself then you can save a ton of cash.

My only regret with my 383 is the pistons I used, I wish now that I had went with some forged SRPs instead of the KB signature series, I'm now looking at nitrous and I'm limited til I pull those slugs out of there.

But I used the cast steel Eagle 383 crank, it took very little to balance it. the rods I used are the ESP 5.7 I beams with the best bolts they sold with em.

I already had the heads, I just cleaned up the ports and had them make sure they were flat. I went with 30# SVO injectors and a racetronics in tank 255 lph pump, 52mmt/b and the exhaust mentioned below.

I originally went with the cc XE 224/230 grind but it seemed to run out of breath, I moved to the 230/236 and it improved matters, but I had to change lifter so I added CC pro mag lifters and a GM 847 cam andK-motion K-800 springs.


The things I would do different...

Pistons, would go forged
Injectors, would ahve went ahead and used 36 #ers for expansion (although the 30#s are doing fine now)

Cam, would have used the right cam the first time.
Heads, would have opted for the 210 cc AFRs instead of the 190s (but at the time I bought the 190s I had a 350)
Old Apr 22, 2004 | 10:21 PM
  #8  
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what are typical horsepower expectations?
Old Apr 23, 2004 | 07:36 AM
  #9  
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If you are lucky you could see 1 per additional CI 383 vs 355 is 28 horsepower. You would need real good head flow and take advantage with your cam spec. and maybe bump the compression ratio a bit. This all gets real tricky unless you have heads you can mill and stay above 54 cc or whatever is appropriate for the piston you use. Its a lot easier to spend 1200.00 on head porting and get the same bang for your buck.
Old Apr 23, 2004 | 09:07 AM
  #10  
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Do not stick a set of heads that flow less than 260/200 cfm @ 500 lift.

There are numerous pistons out there with differnt CC dishs in em, so a small chamber doesnt limit you too much in my opinion.

For instance SRP/JE makes an 18, 12, 7, cc dish and then they have a flattop , but that would be 13:1 so kinda outta the question. I would try to settle around 11.5 or 11:1 for a street driver, tuning and good gas will allow you to never have a problem with detonation (baring excessive oil consumtion).

The GM 847 cam is nice in the 383, but it truly is not fully optimal, but works to my expectations.

I pull to 120 (top of 3rd gear) before you can say scat! I can imagine how the cam would act in a standard.

But that being said, a custom grind with a little closer lobes and optimised timing would probably beat my power by 20 to 30 horses simply by closing the exhaust valve differntly.

Exhaust on a 383 is a big issue, for instance I just added cutouts on my car and though very loud the extra tire spin I got at a 45 mph go was shocking !!

I just noticed SPR also has a 16cc dish piston (courtesy of gentleman above)
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