the problem is likely either tuning, opti or misaligned timing marks on the timing chain. how sure are you that the timing chain was lined up properly and not off a tooth?.. it should be dot-to-dot. its possible your opti but then it would miss all the time id think and tuning again but even a bad tune wouldnt cause a car to misfire. what tables did you copy? 6 spd files are not the same as auto files. the only thing you should have copied are the timing tables and PE tables... change injector constants and offsets if necessary.

 

1 tooth on the cam sprocket is 10*(36 Teeth). Measure it if you wish. I retarded 10* mine when I changed my timing set(Stock Cam). Yes, I wanted to kill myself. It ran like **** below 2500 and came alive in the higher RPMs. The opti would miss at idle and not in the high RPMs. If you advanced 10* it would likely idle ok, be torquey below 2500 and run like **** in the high RPMs.

Unplug your MAF, If it won't run replace your MAP Sensor.(Speed Density Mode, Needs MAP to run)

What did you clean your MAF with? QD Electronic Cleaner works well. DON NOT USE Carb Cleaner or Brake Cleaner.

Your Troubleshooting Flow is as Follows:

1. Optispark
2. Plug Wires
3. Cam Timing
4. PCM Tune
5. MAF
6. MAP
7. Clogged Injector

$.02

Jon

 

The cam/crank were lined up dot to dot.

What about VE as well, since the cam profile is different than stock?

 

Some people leave VE, some people swear by it.

I personally, feel your efficiency has gone DOWN do to more overlap in the hotcam. Your VE will need to be adjusted.

Not entirely sure that it will do what I felt the other day.

I do think your map readings are odd, and the MAF test is a good one.

 

Exactly right, but I have sent detailed emails and gotten no response, I even left a detailed message on his answering machine, once again, no response. I have been trying to get an update for a while now.

 

I don’t want to Flame ANY Tuner.

In My Opinion:
I just think that the ECM, while complicated, is not impossible, and if you take your time, and learn how to do it right that every LT1 owner should be able to tune their car for them self. Tuning a Guitar is not easy for those who have never done it, and some guys spend a TON of money on them. But would you pay to have you Axe shipped across the country just to have it tuned? No, you would sit down and figure it out yourself. Well, when you learn to tune your own car, it becomes just as easy. It takes time. It takes effort. But when you have it down you will save yourself time, money & piece of mind!

Think about every time you need to send the PCM out (and now you cant drive the car) and wait for it to receive the "Best Guess" tune of a man who gets a ton and can only care so much, because there are only so many hours in a day!

Then think about the second you finish working on moding your car. You sit down, you use TTS Data master to log the car, then you tune the car, then your done. And it's not a best guess. If the car needs more fuel, you know. If the car needs more or less spark, you know. If there is something wrong, you know. If there are split BLM's you know. And now, instead of it being done on a wing and a prayer, it's done right, with the tuner right there, in full control, and in full understanding of what is going on.

Bryan, while I am sure he doesn’t set out to do a BAD job (per say) he doesn’t (once again in my opinion) do a good job. Because he has learned how to mask issues, or even turn it around and say that it’s not his tune that’s the problem! How would he know? Was he there? And speaking of that, even when he is right there next to the car, On the Dyno, I have seen him not pay attention. These guys I know flew him out to Dyno this car (i wont get into specifics, because I don’t want to drag innocent people the mud) and Bryan tuned the ECM based on the wide band 02 sensor. And he was having a hard time and the car wasn’t making the expected power. He wouldn’t get off of his but and look under the hood. He only sat there with his computer and the AFR box and tuned. Now, this is only one instance, but had he stood up, walked over to the CAR (GOD WHAT A CONCEPT) he would have seen the exhaust leaks (which throw wrong information at the 02's) and the BURNT SPARK PLUG WIRES on the header! Hmm, a couple of cylinders are not getting proper spark but hell, who cares , Bryan is busy tuning to the Wide band box?!?!?!?!?!?!

In closing. Do it yourself, because "NO ONE WILL TAKE THE AMOUNT OF TIME AND CARE WITH YOUR CAR THAT YOU WILL."

No amount of money can make a mechanic care about that car like you do. Once he's paid it is out of his life. But for you, it represents if nothing else, your hard earned money & probably a good chunk of your time! (If you’re anything like me!)

But then again this is just my opinion, I could be wrong!

 

Don't want to be a d!ck here guys, but you post-hijackers, get the heck out!

 

Yeah!

 

the VE is OK but its believed the VE table isnt used in MAF cars so it makes no difference really.

 

I have heard that as well.

I've also heard (no direct experience), that some tune by the VE and it makes a huge difference, and for others it does not.

VE = part throttle cruising tables mind you.

 

Thanks to DaveD and Barry at ARE (I live close enough to Agostino Racing Engines) for a painfully simple, yet effective, tip on tracking down my misfire, I have isolated cylinder #6 as the loser that is not firing properly. Now I get to see if it is a plug, wire or an injector that is causing all this BS.

BTW the tip they gave me: start the car and spray (from a spray bottle) water on each header tube to see which one doesn't evaporate water the same as the others. Arrgh, the simplicity.

Mike..