Possible Ignition Problem. Please help! (Cross-Post)
(I originally posted this in the Fuel and Ignition Board, but I didn't get a response. Maybe more people will see it here...)
Hi.
I've been reading through search results for a long time now, but I haven't found another situation with exactly these symptoms. Hopefully, you guys can help!
My '94 M6 wouldn't restart after I turned it off. Gauges/lights/power windows work. Fuel pump comes on, but when turning the key to start, I don't even get a click from the solenoid. I did notice a very quiet 'tick' noise from somewhere under the dashboard. Battery power was ok (Optima Yellow tested with a mutimeter). It was running fine just before I turned it off...
I checked all the fuses/relays I could think of, and nothing. Then I pulled the panel under the steering column and tested the the clutch switch, but it was ok too...
I then tried to pushstart it 5 times (in a busy parking lot! ) and each time it would fire and rev for about 5 seconds and then die, as if running out of gas. What the heck?????
I'm hoping it's just maybe a bad/burnt connector to the ignition switch, but I'm wondering if the 'tick' noise under the dash might be the switch itself activating...
Maybe one of you has come across this problem, and can help me before I go tearing out my steering column!
Thanks in advance...
Hi.
I've been reading through search results for a long time now, but I haven't found another situation with exactly these symptoms. Hopefully, you guys can help!
My '94 M6 wouldn't restart after I turned it off. Gauges/lights/power windows work. Fuel pump comes on, but when turning the key to start, I don't even get a click from the solenoid. I did notice a very quiet 'tick' noise from somewhere under the dashboard. Battery power was ok (Optima Yellow tested with a mutimeter). It was running fine just before I turned it off...
I checked all the fuses/relays I could think of, and nothing. Then I pulled the panel under the steering column and tested the the clutch switch, but it was ok too...
I then tried to pushstart it 5 times (in a busy parking lot! ) and each time it would fire and rev for about 5 seconds and then die, as if running out of gas. What the heck?????
I'm hoping it's just maybe a bad/burnt connector to the ignition switch, but I'm wondering if the 'tick' noise under the dash might be the switch itself activating...
Maybe one of you has come across this problem, and can help me before I go tearing out my steering column!
Thanks in advance...
Last edited by TomsBlackZ; Nov 21, 2009 at 10:00 PM.
Ticking under the dash could be the theft deterrent relay. Did you happen to notice if the security light was on or blinking?
vats wiring diagram
Check the relay under the dash I believe above the throttle pedal.
More than likely you have the same issue all of us have had eventually. The key pellet wears down and the contacts inside the steering column wear down. Making intermittent contact. If you unplug the white wires with the orange tubing on them you can measure the resistance of the key pellet through the ignition switch. Look for any change in the reading from the time you put the key in the switch to the time you turn the key to the start position. If that is the case, you can try a new key, replace the switch or simply do the resistor bypass and be done with the problem for good.
If you would like to test the relay, simply ground the yellow/black wire and try it like normal. If the starter then cranks the engine, you know the relay is good.
vats wiring diagram
Check the relay under the dash I believe above the throttle pedal.
More than likely you have the same issue all of us have had eventually. The key pellet wears down and the contacts inside the steering column wear down. Making intermittent contact. If you unplug the white wires with the orange tubing on them you can measure the resistance of the key pellet through the ignition switch. Look for any change in the reading from the time you put the key in the switch to the time you turn the key to the start position. If that is the case, you can try a new key, replace the switch or simply do the resistor bypass and be done with the problem for good.
If you would like to test the relay, simply ground the yellow/black wire and try it like normal. If the starter then cranks the engine, you know the relay is good.
Why do you post the long line of --------------- before you start your thread? All it does is negate the post preview feature. Probably discourages some people from even reading the post.
Sorry, I was away from the computer for the last couple of days...
Speedy, thanks for the info. I was kinda thinking along the same lines. I'll give it a try when I start playing with the wiring. Lets hope that's it ...
I didn't notice if the security light was blinking, but I'll check it when I reconnect the battery (I disconnected it for an unrelated issue).
Injuneer, I didn't type the ----------------. It must have been an artifact when I copied and pasted the post it from its original location (I copied the title and the message at the same time). I didn't notice it till you brought it up. Thanks...
Speedy, thanks for the info. I was kinda thinking along the same lines. I'll give it a try when I start playing with the wiring. Lets hope that's it ...

I didn't notice if the security light was blinking, but I'll check it when I reconnect the battery (I disconnected it for an unrelated issue).
Injuneer, I didn't type the ----------------. It must have been an artifact when I copied and pasted the post it from its original location (I copied the title and the message at the same time). I didn't notice it till you brought it up. Thanks...
If the key feels funny, and it will start but not stay running ,then it's the Ignition Switch on the steering column. I had the same problem!!! It's an easy fix just search ignition switch and you'll get alot of info. shbox site has a great run through.
Good luck
Good luck
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