ported heads please give opinions (pics inside)
ported heads please give opinions (pics inside)
well this a on going project of mine and im still not done but there are some pics of the exhaust ports that have been port and not yet polished.
tell me what you think and if you can see an area that i can improve somewhere tell me, please. id like to here all your opinions.
i was talking to loyd about getting thim to finish the exhaust for me but i said what the hey why not give it a shot.
i will be taking them to loyd and having them flowed and i will post back with numbers.
and if any of yall that have done your own heads have pics or flow numbers i would like to see them please.
no matter how the heads turn out i appreciate all the help guys. you made it alot easier with all your helpful hints.
well here they are....
tell me what you think and if you can see an area that i can improve somewhere tell me, please. id like to here all your opinions.
i was talking to loyd about getting thim to finish the exhaust for me but i said what the hey why not give it a shot.
i will be taking them to loyd and having them flowed and i will post back with numbers.
and if any of yall that have done your own heads have pics or flow numbers i would like to see them please.
no matter how the heads turn out i appreciate all the help guys. you made it alot easier with all your helpful hints.
well here they are....
I am pretty sure your supposed to leave material on the bottom of the port to prevent the exhaust from cominig back into the heads. I am not sure if you did that but then again I could be wrong...
Originally posted by Rodrigues
I am pretty sure your supposed to leave material on the bottom of the port to prevent the exhaust from cominig back into the heads. I am not sure if you did that but then again I could be wrong...
I am pretty sure your supposed to leave material on the bottom of the port to prevent the exhaust from cominig back into the heads. I am not sure if you did that but then again I could be wrong...
but i took off about a 1/32 of a inch off the floor and from about half in the runner i rolled the floor down to the gasket match. i took very litte off the floor itself. but i will see what the numbers say.
thanks for the opinions and keep them coming.
does anyone see where i can impove them.
Looks good!!! Here's some pics of mine, they aren't all that great shots though.
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d.../138h1-med.jpg
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d.../138h3-med.jpg
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d...38h_04-med.jpg
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d.../138h1-med.jpg
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d.../138h3-med.jpg
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d...38h_04-med.jpg
Originally posted by FastZinTennessee
Looks good!!! Here's some pics of mine, they aren't all that great shots though.
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d.../138h1-med.jpg
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d.../138h3-med.jpg
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d...38h_04-med.jpg
Looks good!!! Here's some pics of mine, they aren't all that great shots though.
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d.../138h1-med.jpg
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d.../138h3-med.jpg
http://www.tennesspeed.net/gallery/d...38h_04-med.jpg
anybody got anymore
Heres a pic on how much lip Lloyd Eliott left on the exhaust ports on my heads.
http://www.kak.com/camaro/DCP_0778.JPG
http://www.kak.com/camaro/DCP_0778.JPG
Exhaust could come back in the port because of reversion. Air exits in pulses like entering the intake side. Since there is piston movement, overlap, constant pressure changes, pulses, etc, etc.
I am not sure if leaving material on the floor is gonna help anymore than leaving material around the entire flange and making the exhaust port slighyly smaller than the header flange so "slow down" reversion. Some people do the same thing on the intake port and make the intake manifold a lil smaller than the intake port opening. It just makes a small "edge" to help to lessen the amount of reversion. If you have exhaust going back in the exhaust it could make it harder for more exhaust to exit since the pressure diff. is not as great.
As far as the portwork, the exhaust ports look good but what will relly help is the shortside radius. Basically roll the "bump" from the shortside radius but make sure not to lower the floor unless you are using a flow bench and looking at what you are doing to the low lift #'s as well as the high lift #'s. Come off of the bottom cut of the valve job and go strait up before you start "rolling back" the shortside. I just polish the floor and remove no material at all other than blending to the shortside and removing bump. If you lower the floor you are making a sharper turn from the seat to the exhaust opening. You might pick up #'s at .500, .550, .600 and above but the flow lost at low lift would make for a horrible trade. I usually widen the shortside about .050 wider that the seat.
If you are wanting good low and mid lift #'s concentrate on a good valve job and LEAVING the floor alone other than removing the bump. A 175-180 cfm exhaust port with good low and mid #'s will make more power than a 195-200 cfm port with CRUMMY low and mid #'s.
NightTrain66
I am not sure if leaving material on the floor is gonna help anymore than leaving material around the entire flange and making the exhaust port slighyly smaller than the header flange so "slow down" reversion. Some people do the same thing on the intake port and make the intake manifold a lil smaller than the intake port opening. It just makes a small "edge" to help to lessen the amount of reversion. If you have exhaust going back in the exhaust it could make it harder for more exhaust to exit since the pressure diff. is not as great.
As far as the portwork, the exhaust ports look good but what will relly help is the shortside radius. Basically roll the "bump" from the shortside radius but make sure not to lower the floor unless you are using a flow bench and looking at what you are doing to the low lift #'s as well as the high lift #'s. Come off of the bottom cut of the valve job and go strait up before you start "rolling back" the shortside. I just polish the floor and remove no material at all other than blending to the shortside and removing bump. If you lower the floor you are making a sharper turn from the seat to the exhaust opening. You might pick up #'s at .500, .550, .600 and above but the flow lost at low lift would make for a horrible trade. I usually widen the shortside about .050 wider that the seat.
If you are wanting good low and mid lift #'s concentrate on a good valve job and LEAVING the floor alone other than removing the bump. A 175-180 cfm exhaust port with good low and mid #'s will make more power than a 195-200 cfm port with CRUMMY low and mid #'s.
NightTrain66
Thanks Lloyd
That advice couldn't have come at a better time!!! I'll be finishing up the exhaust bowls and runners on mine sometime next week. BTW do you know anywhere that I can buy some reasonably priced abrasive stuff for my die grinder?? I have a nice bit for it, but the shank is not long enough. I need something with a sandpaper roll on it and a long shank.
John
That advice couldn't have come at a better time!!! I'll be finishing up the exhaust bowls and runners on mine sometime next week. BTW do you know anywhere that I can buy some reasonably priced abrasive stuff for my die grinder?? I have a nice bit for it, but the shank is not long enough. I need something with a sandpaper roll on it and a long shank.John
Originally posted by NightTrain66
Exhaust could come back in the port because of reversion. Air exits in pulses like entering the intake side. Since there is piston movement, overlap, constant pressure changes, pulses, etc, etc.
I am not sure if leaving material on the floor is gonna help anymore than leaving material around the entire flange and making the exhaust port slighyly smaller than the header flange so "slow down" reversion. Some people do the same thing on the intake port and make the intake manifold a lil smaller than the intake port opening. It just makes a small "edge" to help to lessen the amount of reversion. If you have exhaust going back in the exhaust it could make it harder for more exhaust to exit since the pressure diff. is not as great.
As far as the portwork, the exhaust ports look good but what will relly help is the shortside radius. Basically roll the "bump" from the shortside radius but make sure not to lower the floor unless you are using a flow bench and looking at what you are doing to the low lift #'s as well as the high lift #'s. Come off of the bottom cut of the valve job and go strait up before you start "rolling back" the shortside. I just polish the floor and remove no material at all other than blending to the shortside and removing bump. If you lower the floor you are making a sharper turn from the seat to the exhaust opening. You might pick up #'s at .500, .550, .600 and above but the flow lost at low lift would make for a horrible trade. I usually widen the shortside about .050 wider that the seat.
If you are wanting good low and mid lift #'s concentrate on a good valve job and LEAVING the floor alone other than removing the bump. A 175-180 cfm exhaust port with good low and mid #'s will make more power than a 195-200 cfm port with CRUMMY low and mid #'s.
NightTrain66
Exhaust could come back in the port because of reversion. Air exits in pulses like entering the intake side. Since there is piston movement, overlap, constant pressure changes, pulses, etc, etc.
I am not sure if leaving material on the floor is gonna help anymore than leaving material around the entire flange and making the exhaust port slighyly smaller than the header flange so "slow down" reversion. Some people do the same thing on the intake port and make the intake manifold a lil smaller than the intake port opening. It just makes a small "edge" to help to lessen the amount of reversion. If you have exhaust going back in the exhaust it could make it harder for more exhaust to exit since the pressure diff. is not as great.
As far as the portwork, the exhaust ports look good but what will relly help is the shortside radius. Basically roll the "bump" from the shortside radius but make sure not to lower the floor unless you are using a flow bench and looking at what you are doing to the low lift #'s as well as the high lift #'s. Come off of the bottom cut of the valve job and go strait up before you start "rolling back" the shortside. I just polish the floor and remove no material at all other than blending to the shortside and removing bump. If you lower the floor you are making a sharper turn from the seat to the exhaust opening. You might pick up #'s at .500, .550, .600 and above but the flow lost at low lift would make for a horrible trade. I usually widen the shortside about .050 wider that the seat.
If you are wanting good low and mid lift #'s concentrate on a good valve job and LEAVING the floor alone other than removing the bump. A 175-180 cfm exhaust port with good low and mid #'s will make more power than a 195-200 cfm port with CRUMMY low and mid #'s.
NightTrain66
well crap i dont know what to do now. but its not like i have alot of money in them. but i do have alot of time, i mean a lot of time.
i guees ill finish the exhaust side. and see what the flow bench says.
loyd ill be call you. and thanks for all your help, its greatly appreciated.
i guees ill finish the exhaust side. and see what the flow bench says.
loyd ill be call you. and thanks for all your help, its greatly appreciated.
I did not notice in any of the pics that anything was wrong with them.
???????????????????????
since you are in Waco, if you want to bring one down i can show you what I do (not that what I do is the greatest or anything). If you have lowered the floor on all of the ports I would not waste the $ on welding them. If it is really that bad just get some other cores unless you are getting the welding done for free. If I could see them in person I could mybe help ya a lil more or if you have been using a flow bench after every cut that will tell the story. If you want me to look at them give me a call or e-mail and we can set something up. I will not be online much longer so if you want to today than call me. (972-617-5671)
The "shortside description" and "how much" metal is gone from the floor is hard to take pics of and hard to describe and much better to see in person.
NightTrain66
???????????????????????
since you are in Waco, if you want to bring one down i can show you what I do (not that what I do is the greatest or anything). If you have lowered the floor on all of the ports I would not waste the $ on welding them. If it is really that bad just get some other cores unless you are getting the welding done for free. If I could see them in person I could mybe help ya a lil more or if you have been using a flow bench after every cut that will tell the story. If you want me to look at them give me a call or e-mail and we can set something up. I will not be online much longer so if you want to today than call me. (972-617-5671)
The "shortside description" and "how much" metal is gone from the floor is hard to take pics of and hard to describe and much better to see in person.
NightTrain66
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