ok, i put my blower for sale, and no one bought it, so now its time to use it i guess.
i need to by a stroker kit, but there is too many out there, i'm thinking of using the charger, and right now i dont have the ported heads, i have the stoke once back.. i will port them stageII again.. with the hot cam kit, and headers, no cats or muffler, no A/C, pullys, 3.73, and a CAI, so what is the a good setup for around $1500...

please help, and if there a chance i can make it less costly by reusing some of the parts, let me know..

idid a search, but most are running nitros setup.. Not me

 

if you want some REAL blower pistons, then get THESE..... you won't be dissapointed

 

I agree with Injected SS on this one. JE dished/domed pistons are the best for supercharger of nitrous applications. They can hold rediculous amounts of HSP. I heard that have one series that supports almost 1000 HSP

 

do i have to modefy the engien if i go with this set of pistones, the are kind of costly tho..

and if u can complete the set i would really be thankful..

thanx u guys...

 

What do u mean? Have u bored ur block at all? or is it sill 4.000? If ur building a stroker u HAVE TO have block work done. The pistons will fit find as long as u get the corresponding piston rings for your bore size. What kind of stroker are u building? I would go with a Callies or Cola crank with Eagle H Beam Rods if u want a bullet proof engine.

 

thanx for the info man..
the engien is stoke for now beside the hotcam kit..
see the problem is that i never paid attention to the engien before, so hounestly i dont know anything about it.. i know whats in and how it works, but i dont know how to pickthe god parts..

so many numbers that i dont ubderstand, like the bore and rod size..

i'm thinking of a 383 engien with my 8psi ATI procharger, the next move would be stage II heads (dont know number yet) and 58TB, and maybe a 70 shot of NO2.. dont think i'll use it tho..

then a stall and 12 bolt rear end..
what would u go wih if that was ur setup..
thanx for ur help again..

 

That cool man, we are all new at some point

I'll try and keep it simple...

Stroke: Basically, determined by Crankshaft size. To make ur 383 u'll need a crank with 3.75 stroke. Stroke is where the majority of displacement is made. more stroke = more torque.

Bore: The size of the piston sleeve, more HSP. U need bigger piston rings to accomodate bore. u'l' need bore of .030 to make a 383 also.

 

If it were MY engine, my combo would be:

-Callies 3.75" Crankshaft
-Eagle 6.0" H-Beam Rods
-JE forged Nitrous Pistons
-Clevite pistons rings and assorted engine bearings

Now, with a heads and cam package. U could make some SERIOUS power. I wouldn't really recommend a Hot Cam Kit for a 383. That's like using an eyedropper when u need a firehose.
The cam is basically the "powerplant" of ur engine. It is your profile for making power.

Find a local machine shop and tell them what u are planning to do. They can tell u what boreing, line boreing, honing, decking, balancing, and etc. that u will need for ur engine. For block work alone, ur gonna spend anywhere from $600 to $800.

Lemme know if u have anymore questions.

Also, understand that a QUALITY engine build up is gonna cost u anywhere from $4000-$8000, depending on how much power u want to make.

 

thanx man. see i called couble shops down here, but i didnt see them having the time to explain things to me, all i so from them is numbers..

that was really helpful..

i like the setup u chose.. its just now that mean they have to bore it over right?? cuz i remember the guy was telling me if they have to do that, i want see my car for a month..

is that true or r they just lazy.. he isaid if its under then thats fine..

 

yes and no i would say.

I mean, it doesn't take a whole month to do machine work on a block, but I'm sure they have a bunch of other motors to work on. And if they are pulling ur motor and reinstalling it, yea it will take that long.

Make sure that if u buy the parts from somewhere else, make sure U bring the crank to the machine shop. This way they can balance it and line hone the block for ur crank. This way your motor will be balanced more effectively and u will turn RPMS a lot quicker.

 

u got a point.. (the time it will take to get the job done)

well wheelmanz28, u have been a big help, thank you

 

ryan generalized everything pretty well but it goes a lot deeper than just "more stroke is more torque."

The Lt4 Hotcam IMHO (which isn't saying much) has too much overlap which isn't required on a forced induction motor. Its also not exactly a high lift cam.

The Xe 224/236 (i think its 236) is a proven cam for forced induction applications.

Sounds like you are new to this game and ran at this modding thing head first with a blower. All I can say is you are in for more than you bargined for. these motors are not exactly reliable, even after rebuilds and forged precautions.

I strongly reccomend you give combination motorsports a call. They have some GREAT prices, and more importantly great advice. They have the worlds most powerful LT1 with LT1 heads (somewhere around 950rwhp using a blower i believe) and the worlds most powerful LT1 (1300hp?) as far as i've seen.


They are extremely qualified in the area of forced induction, especially with LT1's. I highly reccomend giving them a call.

www.cmotorsports.com

 

No problem dude Email me in the future if u have other questions u need help with.

Trey brings up a good point. I only gave u the tip of the iceberg. With a Blower, ur going to also have to COMPLETELY redo ur fuel system as well.

I also agree that www.cmotorsports.com is an EXCELLENT company and I highly recommend u do business with them, at least give them a call. They have great products and great prices.

Good luck man :thumbs: