Trying to diagnose this one. Anyone else have this problem?

Alignment shop told me lower LCA bushings were shot, so I put in poly bushings on both upper and lower control arms. Still there.

Replaced shocks with stock take-offs. Still there.

Any suggestions on where to look next? Thinking steering box, unless there's some slop in the shaft joints somewhere.

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

Tie-rod ends...period. On most cars bad ones are easy to detect. On f-bods, I've found most are lucky to make to 60k miles. F-bods are very sensistive to steering geometry. Once right you'll know it, a little off and it'll fight every ounce of the way. Just replaced mine and the wheel has no play. Also on the rack under the car, there is a preload screw on the front. Basically just loosen the large lock nut(~2") and thread the screw in until it bottoms out, then back it out an eighth to a quarter of a turn and tighten the lock nut.
Doug

 

Any idea how much for replacements? We're talking just tie rod end, right?

Wife's not too happy with all the money I've spent on this thing in the last few months (close to 2K) doing repairs.

 

Hey,

I have the same. I have also replaced bushings and shocks. I ended up taking my car to a shop that does alignments the old way (no computer) and havent had any other alignment problems. However, I still have a loose steering feel and will probably replace the steering box.

sorry hope it helps

john

 

Chances are its not your steering box!.. on your steering shaft there is a coupling.where the upper shaft meets the lower.... its made of a wafer type thingy.. it wears out and the holes' get oblong shaped.. therefore allowing play. Goto napa and pick up the new one.. pull your shaft out drill out the rivet's and install the new one w/ bolt's..and loctite..... that is most likely your problem if none of the other common things ain't it ( tie rod ends, etc) which you can pretty much dismiss by lifting up each side adn going left to right w/t he wheel..

 

Guys, the most common problem for steering slop (or free-play) in our cars is because of a worn "rag joint". It's a joint located in the steering linkage that connects the steering wheel shaft to the steering box. Two ways to fix it, if that's your problem: 1) replace the steering linkage (~$85 I think) or 2) buy a "rag joint eliminator" and repair your existing linkage assembly. Do a search for "rag joint" on here and you'll find lots of info on this subject.

 

How much are the new tie rod ends where can they be brought

 

$25-$35 depending where they're purchased...any car parts store will have them. Most, but not all are greasable; unlike the OEM's which had little or no grease in them or the capablibity to add some. I got the dana's from Pepboys.
Oh yeah, the rag joint will wear on the higher mileage rides.
Doug

 

Okay. Going to check the preload on the rack tonight, and take a look at the rag joint. Thanks for the info, all!

 

I went down the same path you're following and I'd be willing to bet that it's your rag joint. Check that before you invest the time and energy into checking/adjusting the steering pre-load setting on the steering box because the preload hardly ever needs adjustment after leaving the factory, even after 100k miles.

 

Same here couldn't figure it out for a white and it was pretty obvious when I pulled the steering shaft for a header install. You can buy rag joing eliminator kits from here:

http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/Rag_Joint/

 

How hard is that ti install waht do you have to do?

 

It's not a very hard install supposedely. I happened to have a parts car so I swapped steering linkages.

All you have to do is drill out the old rag joint rivits and bolt in the eliminator basically. Maybe an hour or so of work.

 

Too bad the headers make that 6hour job

 

Without the rag joint though, wouldn't you be able to feel more of the road vibration in your steering wheel. It seems like a good option for a non daily driver