LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

planning a rebuild

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Old Jul 5, 2008 | 09:33 PM
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spyder24's Avatar
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planning a rebuild

ok im planning to rebuild my 96 lt1. i dont have the cash to put to many upgrades but i was gonna install a cam. i dont know to much about these engines or engines period but i have heard some cams need different parts in order to work correctly or at all. the model # on the cam the shop was going to install is como7-502- 8 it is a compcam...any suggestions or tips before i get into this.
Old Jul 5, 2008 | 09:51 PM
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Cam specs indicate its a fairly mild cam.... sorta like the LT4 HOT cam with a shade less exhaust duration. You would want to use 1.6 RR's with it.

http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...csid=1106&sb=2
Old Jul 5, 2008 | 10:06 PM
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ok it says something about requires machining on cylinder heads? is that necassary? and any other tips or suggestions before i get into it?
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 01:58 PM
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You absolutely have to replace the springs.

Why are you rebuilding? Most local shops will just screwup an LT1, the stock shortblock is rather good. Pistons are not that heavy, rings are thin and low tension, bore from GM is very good and rarely wears enough to warrant rebuilding.
Old Jul 7, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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well i dont want to rebuild but the problems im having leave me with no choice.. ive tried everything and i cant find the problem.. ive showd a few different people and they think its my connecting rod or something.. i checked the rockers and they are all tight and nothing seems wrong under the valve covers. i just want the car back to normal and i have no idea what else i can do to solve this problem other than get it rebuilt and what not
Old Jul 7, 2008 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by spyder24
well i dont want to rebuild but the problems im having leave me with no choice.. ive tried everything and i cant find the problem.. ive showd a few different people and they think its my connecting rod or something.. i checked the rockers and they are all tight and nothing seems wrong under the valve covers. i just want the car back to normal and i have no idea what else i can do to solve this problem other than get it rebuilt and what not
You admitted up above that you don't know much about engines. Why don't you go through a detailed explanation of what you are experiencing and see if we can help. Further, do a sig with all mods that are associated with the car. This might keep you from a rebuild.
Old Jul 7, 2008 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 95Blackhawk
You admitted up above that you don't know much about engines. Why don't you go through a detailed explanation of what you are experiencing and see if we can help. Further, do a sig with all mods that are associated with the car. This might keep you from a rebuild.
I completely agree with this guy, maybe we can help you and save you ALOT of money. You will find that the people on the internet are sometimes alot more reliable then just your back yard mechanics with the LT1.
Old Jul 8, 2008 | 12:48 PM
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yea thats what i thought.. i got a bunch of people from z28.com help me already and the suggestions they had were good but i did what they said and i still didnt find the problem.. symtoms are... at 1st it was just a slight ticking sound coming from the drivers side valve cover.. i knew that didnt sound right.. then it got alot worse and started feeling alot of vibration and i was losing alot of power..the oil pressure has been really low as well.. it hasnt over heated at all..the tranny also doesnt seem to be shifting the same all of a sudden like if i get on it it shifts where it normally would but my speed is no where to be found but im guessing its because of w.e the egine problem is..i took it to two shops.. 1 said it has to be a connecting rod or something in the bottom end of the engine.. other guy said it is missfiring and something with the main bearings or somthing i 4get all they said but ya..and the people on the internet so far thought it could be an exaust leak which i know it isnt that..and they suggested taking the valve cover off and checking the rockers and what not .. did that didnt find any loose ones and all the lifters seemed to be working correctly and what not.. also the check engine light wasnt on for the longest time now it recently just came on and the car is still doing th same thing .. hasnt seemed to got much worse or anything like that.. but ya thats about all i can think of .. if anyone has any suggestions or wants to know more let me know.. thanks
Old Jul 8, 2008 | 02:23 PM
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Sounds like a bearing with the knocking and low oil pressure.

If you want a cam that drives like stock and works within the stock rpm range, just has more power everywhere I can recommend you the Lingenfelter 211/219. Very fun DD cam
Old Jul 8, 2008 | 05:45 PM
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If the SES light came on, get it scanned. Might provide some insight to the problem.
Old Jul 10, 2008 | 09:11 PM
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ok well im planning on getting it rebuilt.. i was lookin in summit.. any one have any suggestions on what kind of kit i should get? like the summit kit seems cheap should i stay away from that? i am planning on basicly getting the whole bottom end redone and fix w.e the problem is. which is probably main bearings or something with the connecting rod. any suggestions anyone?
Old Jul 10, 2008 | 09:36 PM
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New rings and bearings, polish the crank and put arp bolts in the rods deck the block. GOOD TO GO.

This assumes that your bores havent worn, which most of the time the lt1 is still in perfect shape and people only bore them .030" out of habbit. The stock lt1 parts are better than any cheap rebuild pieces you will ever find.
Old Jul 11, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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so i wont need new connecting rods or a new crank? just polish the crank. and the bolts you speak of what are the called? arp? im not to good with engines yet but im tryin to buy all the parts i need now.. i was gonna just get a whole set from summit including...piston rings, rod,main,cam bearings,high volume oil pump,true roller timing chain,felpro gasket set,sealants and lubes,plastigage,rod bolt boots, oil line and brass freeze plugs.. and it cost 225$ and can add stage 1 connecting rods for 235$ if i need them..and new crank for 214$ if needed..or i can add new pistons.. is any of this necassary? just want to make sure i dont need anything more before i get it done. should i go with that kit or ???
Old Jul 11, 2008 | 05:01 PM
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None of that may be necessary, dont know until somebody qualified gets the parts in thier hands. Just new rings and bearings at the minimum. What you really need to do is take it to a machine shop that knows lt1's. Most of them dont and will **** it up good.

Arp is a company that makes aftermarket fasteners, thier rod bolts are stronger than the stock lt1 bolts and will keep you from spinning bearings at higher rpm. After they're installed you will may need the rods resized, which is easy for a shop. If you're able to use the stock pistons crank and rods back with new rings and bearings you are going to avoid alot of machine costs and balancing. It will save you a buttload of cash and the engine will be just as strong or better than if it just has cheap summit rebuild parts in it.

You do not need or want a high volume oil pump. A standard volume pump with a high pressure relief spring in it will do everything you need. Have the machine shop supply and install the cam bearings as it is not for a novice. Have them do the freeze plugs as well.

I'm still not sure how you're going to assemble this and have good results without somebody experienced looking over your shoulder. Parts have to fit a certain way and need to be checked over pretty closely, they should even feel a certain way when they're going together. Theres alot of little tricks to engine building that you learn over time by seeing things and experimenting
Old Jul 12, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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ok one thing i noticed yesterday while driving it. when i was going around 40-50 mph and id let off the gas it would like feel like it wouldnt go into a higher gear or something like something was holding it back.. and if id put it in neutral while drifting down a hill at that speed it would take the pressure off.. ive never noticed this before until now... any one know what this can be?



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