I posted this as a reply in another thread, but thought I'd start a new thread with this information so that other people can see it without having to scan through a few pages of replies.

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Well, I got around to taking some pictures of my recently-installed Jet-Hot LTs and the k-member area as well as some other shots.The picture descriptions are not very informative, but I hope some of the pics will prove useful to those of you out there. Also, the car in the pic is a '96 TA with original motor mounts and 94k miles.

Header top; pass-side
Header top; driver-side
Pass-side header-to-A/C/heater proximity
Driver-side collector-to-floorboard distance
Driver-side k-member-to-header distance; looking up
Driver-side k-member-to-header distance; looking up
Driver-side k-member-to-header distance; looking up
Pass-side k-member-to-header distance; looking up
Pass-side k-member-to-header distance; looking up
Pass-side k-member-to-header distance; looking up
Pass-side k-member-to-header distance; looking up (starter area)
Pass-side k-member-to-header distance; looking up
Pass-side k-member-to-header distance; looking up (starter wire proximity)
Pass-side collector-to-floorboard distance
Ground clearance (car on jacks)
Another Ground clearance shot (car on jacks)

 

I've about to get started installing my Hooker Long Tubes, so your pics will certainly help me!

I do have one request, could you measure (with car on ground) the distance from the front jack pad to the ground, and the distance from the bottom of the collector flange to the ground?

I realize that the Jet Hots are supposedly tucked up a little tighter, but they should be close enough to give me an idea of how much ground clearance to expect.

I do need both distances, cause I will compare your jack pad to ground clearance to mine and adjust your collector clearance according to the difference (if any) to get an approximate clearance for my car.

Thanks!

 

I'll take the measurements for you once she is done jack-stand racing. She's still up in the air at the moment waiting for me to find time to install the Hooker y-pipe. Once it's back on the ground (hopefully this Sunday) I'll do the measurements and reply here.

 

how many hours did it take and what issues did you run into installing them??

I want some but just me and my friend changing my plugs yesterday took like 2 hours its such a tight fit lol.

 

I did the entire install by myself and it has been roughly 10 hours total just to get the old stuff out and the headers and new spark plugs installed. That time does not include OVC wire installation or y-pipe installation, just removing the manifolds, rerouting wires (to keep them from burning) and bolting the headers into place and installing O2s. Be aware though, that my ****-ness added some time to that as well.

There were many times an extra hand, eye, or two of each would've helped. However, some bungie cords and a couple of old bath towels kept things held in place while I moved from under the car to under the hood, or vice-versa. It hasn't really been hard, just frustrating. The real key to it is patience and not having to rush through anything. I've blurted my fair share of cuss words though...

 

How old are your motor mounts?

My clearances look the same as yours and the passenger side header vibrates againts the k-member at idle. It looks like yours will too. I might try new motor mounts but I have heard people that put new ones in and nothing moved. My motor mount didn't look worn when I put the new engine in. I think the problem is the tolerances on the car and new motor mounts won't fix it. I am looking for other solutions. The vibration is pretty annoying.

The picture are great, and I'm sure they will help a lot of people,
Thanks

Dustin

 

Just a heads up to you since I just finished up my Jet Hot LT and Hooker Y-Pipe install a couple of days ago. The Hooker Y-Pipe fits like crap, at least for me. Even after grinding the lip on the crossmember it wasn't close to fitting. I took it to my exhaust guy and he fixed it for me, but this pipe was far from being a "bolt on" for me.

 

My motor mounts (as shown in the pictures) are the factory original (1996) with 94k miles on them. On the passenger-side of my car, the closest the k-member and the primary get is 5/8". This is hard to discern in the pictures because I didn't hold a ruler up there during the photo shoot. I'm curious, since you're having rattling issues, how far apart is yours from the k-member when the engine is off?

Thanks for the comments and heads-up guys.

 

You look to have a lot more clearance on the drivers side than we had. I just finished installing a set on a friend's car 2 weeks ago, and we had tons of room on the passenger side, but the drivers side slip fit-to-primary junction was jamming against the heat shield for the hard brake lines. (Which later caused it to rupture )

 

how did that hooker y-pipe fit? did it go in with little issue or was in a PITA?

I have the jet-hots with a hooker y coming in.

thanks.

 

I must have been looking at the picture wrong.

I'm not sure what you mean by "when the engine is off". If you mean not running, my primary tube is ~1/16" from the k member on the passenger side. When the car is in park or neutral I don't get any rattling but when it idles in drive, the motor vibrates just enough to make it touch. My motor mounts have 135000 miles on them so I'm sure they are worn but I don't want to spend the time to replace them if it won't fix my problem.

Dustin

 

Yep, I meant when the engine wasn't running; just to ensure that you get a static measurement. 1/16" is pretty darn close. I know a couple members on here have reported having to grind the k-member to get the passenger header installed; others don't. I'm fairly certain I won't have rattles on that side with 5/8" distance, but then again, I've been wrong before!

 

I think you will be fine if you have that much clearance. I think I will jack the tranny up to get a little clearance so I can grind the k-member. The problem is that the driver side header is so close to the floorboard that I can only go about 1/4" up. At least it doesn't rattle on that side.

Thanks again for all of the pics

Dustin

 

Make sure you drive the car before you measure ground clearance so the suspension has time to settle to its ride height.
Mine stays up a bit right after letting it off the jackstands, the new poly suspension might have something to do with that but it won,t hurt and you will get good measurements.

 

Hey BitCypher, you have a chance to make those measurements for me yet? I sure could use them.