ACE1252

Could be, but we are starting to get into areas that are best answered by professional tuners. I think I've got a good handle on the process and I'm very close to taking my car to the dyno to do some tuning on it myself, but i have not seen enough known good tunes to tell you if the VE or spark is good enough on a 383. My impression is that the tune is good enough for it to run fair and not give the problems you are having.

A good place to start would be figuring out why the MAP sensor is so high and verifing that there is no issue with your FPR. The pressure needs to come back up to 43.5psi(set with no vacuum on the regulator). From there troubleshooting needs to be done around why it's running so rich.

Do the logs show the coolant sensor in the water pump working fine? Does it roughly agree with the dash gauge?

There is a users guide for LT1 Edit on this page.....
http://carputing.tripod.com/9495LT1Edit.htm

For the question on the injectors, there should be something on them to indicate what model number it is.....generally molded into the body of the injector somewhere.....even around the connector area.

mrmint69

I used PMCFORLESS for a mail order tune. I then sent him my datalog and he made adjustment accordingly, to come as close to a dyno tune as you can get. The more info on the car like your cam, heads and any mods will help to best dial it in. It was very cheap and everytime I made changes like gears, I just paid a little to modify the tune and used my lap top to download it.

numskull

Thanks. Im gonma look at my injectors this weekend, and take another datalog in closed loop. If i recall the temp was pretty close with my gauge.
I actually have that user guide, Im gonna try and pull my tune so I can have it as backup and to compare the one i have now.
Since Im not goin to spary no time soon, shoule the timimg be adjusted?

what plays into the map reading high that i should check?

Thanks again jeff

ACE1252

I would make absolutely sure there are no intake vacuum leaks. For example, there is a seal around the MAP sensor, is it in good condition? Are the hoses connected to the intake manifold in good condition? Any oil leaks around the intake manifold(front and back)? Is the gasket between the throttle body and intake in good shape?

As far as tweaking the tune, I'd give PCMFORLESS or Madtuner a call or email. Give them your mod list, ask them to look at the tune, and ask how much it would cost to for them to tweak it based on what you have got already.

I would not go tweaking on the tune until you have done quite a bit more research into how fuel injection engines operate. Read, read, read, and read some more.

Also, read back over what Injuneer wrote in your other thread.

ACE1252

Since the MAP is so high, here is how to test the sensor and the circuit for proper operation. From my factory service manual....

• Get a MityVac vacuum pump(with gauge....20" Hg min).
• Key to run, but engine not running. Connect the scan tool. Monitor MAP reading.
• Remove the MAP sensor from the intake Manifold but leave the electrical harness connected.
• Connect the vacuum pump to the MAP sensor.
• Observe the MAP reading, on the scan tool, while slowly applying vacuum up to 20"Hg as indicated on the pump gauge.
• Each 1" of vacuum applied should result in a 3 to 4 kPa drop in the MAP sensor scan tool reading. The value should change smoothly with each increase in vacuum.
• 20"Hg of vacuum should read 34kPa or lower. With no vacuum, the reading should be 85kPa or above(my MAP reading with no vacuum is 99kPa).

numskull

I'll go back over it with a fine tooth comb this weekend. Whats the best way to check for a vac leak, soapy water?

ACE1252

Soapy water is for a pressure leak, this is for a vacuum leak on an engine. Do be careful, but here you go.....use the propane method if possible.

[autostream]http://autostream.com/camaroz28/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=2618& transactionid=1334897296-75191131167&posted_by=ACE1252_www.camaroz28.com&yo utube_video_id=9CPqbaSgcok[/autostream]

numskull

Great video!! Im gonna try it tomorrow, if its not raining!! That sounds like my problem...lol

ACE1252

Just as some additional info, my MAP reading with the key on, engine off is 99kPa. I was tinkering with Autotap to setup my tuning config and glanced at that setting.

Injuneer

The MAP reading with KOEO is the local barometric pressure. It's going to vary with the elevation and the weather.

numskull

Is there a site that would have the proper location pictured for the vac lines and the MAP sensor. I wanna make sure I hooked everything up correctly when I reinstaled the engine.
I have some PDF file but they didnt show them.

ACE1252

Shoebox's site is a treasure trove of 4th Gen F-body information.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

http://shbox.com/1/component_location_views.html

http://shbox.com/1/evap_sol.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/pcv_pipe.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/map_seal.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/map.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/opti_vacuum_conn.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/fp_reg.jpg

Injuneer

There should be a label on the radiator cover showing the routing of the vacuum lines.

numskull

I wish, all that has been removed from mine.

I sure do miss a carb......simple screw adjustment and bam no flooding..lol

numskull

AWESOME! Thanks man. I look on shbox, I musta looker over the ones I needed, these are perfect! I feel that IM indebt to you guys..lol for all the help. Thanks again!