Passanger side power door lock problem
#1
Passanger side power door lock problem
The drivers side door works fine with the remote and both the drivers side switch and the passanger side switch. So im guessing its not the switch thats the problem... The passanger side lock wont lock or unlock unless i reach over to do it manually which just plain sucks
I removed the door panel to check out the door lock today, there were no problems inside there, so im pretty sure its jsut something like a fuse that has blown. I can hear the sound under the passanger side dash, where the glove box is, it sounds like it is still active but its just not locking/unlocking it... Should i just take it to a dealership or is there a specific fuse i could just check?
I removed the door panel to check out the door lock today, there were no problems inside there, so im pretty sure its jsut something like a fuse that has blown. I can hear the sound under the passanger side dash, where the glove box is, it sounds like it is still active but its just not locking/unlocking it... Should i just take it to a dealership or is there a specific fuse i could just check?
#3
their is only on fuse for the locks. if your d.s. door is working then your fuse is good. you said you can hear the relay clicking so thats good. but in some cars their are 3 relays for the locks d.s. and p.s.
so its one of 3 things your lock motor is not geting power to it, if their are individual relays for each door you could have a bad relay, or your lock motor is bad.
i would say its the lockmotor sense it is factory, but i would check the power at the motor just to be safe.
before you got to the dealer i woud go to a car audio shop they would be much cheaper!
good luck
-brian
so its one of 3 things your lock motor is not geting power to it, if their are individual relays for each door you could have a bad relay, or your lock motor is bad.
i would say its the lockmotor sense it is factory, but i would check the power at the motor just to be safe.
before you got to the dealer i woud go to a car audio shop they would be much cheaper!
good luck
-brian
#4
Where are the relays, and if you know, where is theo ne specifically for the p.s. lock.
And imguessing the motor lock is the thing that i checked right on the side of the door where when you pull the manual lock bar, it moves and clicks into place, then out when you pull the other way... If so then, no, this is not gettin any power to it, and i checked the wiring, it looks good.
And imguessing the motor lock is the thing that i checked right on the side of the door where when you pull the manual lock bar, it moves and clicks into place, then out when you pull the other way... If so then, no, this is not gettin any power to it, and i checked the wiring, it looks good.
#5
You are *not* getting 12V to the door lock actuator (motor) when you hit the power door lock buttons? You will need to start tracing wires to find out where the bad connection is.
Not sure how F-bodies are designed, but keep in mind many GM cars don't use relays for the door lock actuators. They are wired directly to the switches. e.g. my '96 C4 doesn't use door lock relays.
Not sure how F-bodies are designed, but keep in mind many GM cars don't use relays for the door lock actuators. They are wired directly to the switches. e.g. my '96 C4 doesn't use door lock relays.
#6
Well it looks like we’ve got some contradicting info here! Allow me to clear it up for you their!
First things first, almost all GM vehicles have what is called 5wire reversing polarity door lock setup that requires relays to function, including the 1996 Corvette! JasonL
All right, on to the door locks!
The best way to check your door motor is to find the motor its self their will be 2 wires going into the motor. Now what your going to want to do is cut those wires leaving your self room to reconnect them if the motor turns out to be good. After that take a cordless drill battery and touch one wire to the pos side and the other to the neg side than reverse the 2 wires. One way will lock and the other will unlock. If the motor doesn’t move than the motor is the problem. Now if the motor works, sadder and heat shrink your wires back together. Post your results or any other questions you got.
That’s how I check them at my shop when this type of problem shows up. This is the first thing that I would do since you have already checked the fusses.
I will post the relay locations later tonight or sometime tomorrow. I might even post the vetts locations if I have time.
Hope that helps!
-brian
First things first, almost all GM vehicles have what is called 5wire reversing polarity door lock setup that requires relays to function, including the 1996 Corvette! JasonL
All right, on to the door locks!
The best way to check your door motor is to find the motor its self their will be 2 wires going into the motor. Now what your going to want to do is cut those wires leaving your self room to reconnect them if the motor turns out to be good. After that take a cordless drill battery and touch one wire to the pos side and the other to the neg side than reverse the 2 wires. One way will lock and the other will unlock. If the motor doesn’t move than the motor is the problem. Now if the motor works, sadder and heat shrink your wires back together. Post your results or any other questions you got.
That’s how I check them at my shop when this type of problem shows up. This is the first thing that I would do since you have already checked the fusses.
I will post the relay locations later tonight or sometime tomorrow. I might even post the vetts locations if I have time.
Hope that helps!
-brian
#7
Originally posted by CamZ2811
First things first, almost all GM vehicles have what is called 5wire reversing polarity door lock setup that requires relays to function, including the 1996 Corvette! JasonL
First things first, almost all GM vehicles have what is called 5wire reversing polarity door lock setup that requires relays to function, including the 1996 Corvette! JasonL
This is from an '86 Corvette
http://www.batee.com/corvette/keyles...kschematic.gif
If there are in fact door lock relays, then both the '86 and '96 Helms manuals have incorrect wiring diagrams.
#8
Here is another site that explains why 5-wire systems don't need relays:
http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w
http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w
Like the configuration above, the switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground directly to motor legs without the use of any relays.
#9
Bad news.... just tried the new door lock acuator i bought and it didnt work.. then i tested the connector which i should of done first lol, and it is not gettin a current to it.
I dont know where to trace back the wires going to it because the wires inside the door arnt gettin a current either cuz i tested them like further down near where the wires go inside the door..
It might be in/near the bcm
any help is great
I dont know where to trace back the wires going to it because the wires inside the door arnt gettin a current either cuz i tested them like further down near where the wires go inside the door..
It might be in/near the bcm
any help is great
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