I think I'm almost done buying parts for a little while. I still need EWP, Pushrods, Head Bolts, Oil Pump & Pickup, Gears, Plugs & Wires, Poly Motor & Tranny Mounts, and a few little things here and there. Next Monday my motor goes into the maching shop and I think I have everything that I'm going to need.

But 1 question, should I get a keyed crank pulley? My buddy has one that I can buy for pretty cheap but is it really needed?

Also anything else that I might be forgetting about just let me know. The rest of the parts are in my sig I can't wait to get it back on the road

I also just want to say THANK YOU GUYS FOR THE HELP

 

I don't think a keyed crank hub is needed unless you go w/ a supercharger or SR setup where you need to reference TDC.

 

IMO skip the EWP and use a stock timing set, will save you a chunk of money.
Stock head bolts from good sources are DIRT cheap, paid $23 for a full set and they come with sealer applied.
What head gasket are you looking to use?

 

I already have a cloyes true roller timing set and am going with an ewp, so no comprimise there. I also have a complete felpro gasket set coming and I was going to get ARP head bolts since they are reuseable just incase something happens and are better than the stockers from what I have heard. But where have you found the stock replacements for $23 a set? My brother works at autozone and the best deal he can get me is about $23 per side and I figured I'd spend the extra $10 and get some ARPs.

Let me know for sure. My rod and main bolts will be here Tuesday and the rest of my exhaust will show up about the same time. Have a few odds and ends that I waiting on, but I have most of the big stuff just getting impatient to drive my baby again LOL its going to be completely different and I can't wait.

I'm also am sending my PCM to MadZ28 once I drop off my motor for machining, forgot about that above.

 

I would not call a stock timing set and stock waterpump a "compromise" I actually pay attention to REALITY unlike everyone who will tell you how you need a "stronger" chain. I would call an EWP and having to have the more expensive "stronger" chain falling victim to the internet.
I am only aware of two LT1 chains breaking both on the same car and the guy found an external cause so it was not the chain that was the issue.

Far as the bolts Dal Slabaugh sells GM parts at a fraction dealer cost, he is the most commonly used guy by the b-body crowd, think the f-body crowd usually goes to Jason cromer.

Stock timing set was about $60 from someone like Dal last I checked and a stock reman WP $42 from Advance Auto online store.

 

Dude settle down, all that I was saying is that I bought the cloyes timing set to run with the EWP and am going that route and I'm not changing my mind, simple as that. Nothing against you or your info its just what I planned from the start of this build.

I'm not saying that the stock timing set is bad in any way. They hold up to many, many thousands of miles on almost every chevy motor since the beginning of time HAHA.

Thanks for that, but I think I'll stick with the ARPs for the extra little security and being able to reuse them in the worse case senerio.

I'm not trying to call you out on anything, you seem to know your stuff on the LT1, but don't take what I say out of proportion. I'm learning as this goes on, and I know that using a EWP will free up a little power and take some of the strain off my cam bearings and valvetrain.

Thanks for your insite, I truely appreciate it but don't treat me like I'm stupid and incapable of making my own decisions.

Have a good one

 

There have been others. Shawn97Z28M6 (moderator of the Texas forum) was driving, came across some kids who were throwing rocks at cars. He slammed on his brakes and the chain broke. It's always a good idea to step up to a true roller if you plan on running "beating" on your valvetrain by racing and such. Stock chains stretch. That's what they do.

 

This is very true. One of my buddies had a 96 Z with 64,000 miles, his broke and really did a number on his valves and pushrods. It worked out okay though, TEA ported his heads and he put a cam in there as well while it was down. Stock chain lasted me 113,000 miles before I swapped cams, but I made an upgrade when I put it back together. Just a little more security...