Pacesetter Header Install
im in the middle of my header install and i cant get either side to fit in. i have done everything that everyone has mentioned, taking valve covers off, steer knuckle is un boted, dipstick is out, alternator is off. i dont know what im doing wrong. dont mean to hijack the thread but that you might want to hear this.
I did mine from the bottom . Just take the starter off, dip stick tube, and the steering shaft from box. your going to be under there any way. Best thing is leave the o2s out and crank it a time or ten until the coating inside the headers is burnt off. I used 6 ton jack stands in front and 4 tons in back. Its easier to get some of the plugs out.
Are you sure you have to? As hard as it is to get apart it's even harder to put back together (As was my experience). I believe i used a screwdriver to pry it apart... and a tire tool and a bottle of swear words to put it back together.
Get the car itself very high in the air!
Take off the steering linkage on the driver's side.
Valve covers on both sides.
Starter, alternator, and dipstick on the passenger side.
Try going without unbolting the motor mount (especially the passenger side) as the bolt can be a bitch to get back in. Just try giving the engine a pump or too to see if that lifts it high enough. If that doesn't work, unbolt the motor mount(s).
Take off the steering linkage on the driver's side.
Valve covers on both sides.
Starter, alternator, and dipstick on the passenger side.
Try going without unbolting the motor mount (especially the passenger side) as the bolt can be a bitch to get back in. Just try giving the engine a pump or too to see if that lifts it high enough. If that doesn't work, unbolt the motor mount(s).
ah i see what youre saying. I had that problem getting the bolt out, but I put it back in the other direction to spare myself that nightmare.
Last edited by JoeliusZ28; Sep 15, 2007 at 11:38 AM.
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hah i wish i was doing a head swap too but not in the budget at the moment sadly ;0( cuz I also have an intake manifold that im working on porting and polishing that would be nice too so I would jsut do heads, headers, and intake all at once...damn budget setbacks hah!
Hell ya - pulling the heads is always easy on an F-body!
But if he's not pulling the heads, that's obviously not an option.
Roxy's car - the damn right side motor mount bolt - I don't know how that was put in, but it wasnt goint to come out with the AC lines there so we just jacked the engine up a half an inch or so and then the header squeezed in from below with about zero clearance.
But if he's not pulling the heads, that's obviously not an option.
Roxy's car - the damn right side motor mount bolt - I don't know how that was put in, but it wasnt goint to come out with the AC lines there so we just jacked the engine up a half an inch or so and then the header squeezed in from below with about zero clearance.
Short break down on how I did them. If you want anything clarified just ask.
Disconnect Battery.
Remove spark plug wires, spark plugs, steering shaft, oil dipstick, and alternator.
Jack car up as high as you can and support it on jack stands.
Remove exhaust all the way up to the headers.
Jack up motor and remove motor mounts.
Driver side header goes in from top, passenger from bottom.
Install copper MR. Gasket gaskets with a thin bead of high temp copper silicone RTV on both sides of the gaskets.
Install ARP 1" stainless steel bolt but do not tighten fully.
Install motor mounts with new Prothane mounts (you'll thank me later).
Lower motor and tighten motor mounts.
Install y pipe and leave loose.
Install Catback and leave loose.
Get everything lined up and then start tightening everything down little by little. DO NOT do it all at once.
Install old O2 sensors. DO NOT USE new o2 sensors until the headers have had time to break in.
Install spark plugs and reconnect plug wires. Some need to be done from the bottom so keep the car in the air.
Install steering shaft and oil dipstick.
Lower car.
Install alternator.
If you got your computer tuned this is where you would install your new tuned computer. RECOMMENDED.
Reconnect battery and start car checking for leaks.
Enjoy the new power!
On a side note, when I installed the exhaust clamps I used band clamps. I still had a few exhaust leaks so recently I went back through and used aluminum foil with high temp copper silicone RTV. I let it set for about 3 days and I have yet to have an exhaust leak.
Disconnect Battery.
Remove spark plug wires, spark plugs, steering shaft, oil dipstick, and alternator.
Jack car up as high as you can and support it on jack stands.
Remove exhaust all the way up to the headers.
Jack up motor and remove motor mounts.
Driver side header goes in from top, passenger from bottom.
Install copper MR. Gasket gaskets with a thin bead of high temp copper silicone RTV on both sides of the gaskets.
Install ARP 1" stainless steel bolt but do not tighten fully.
Install motor mounts with new Prothane mounts (you'll thank me later).
Lower motor and tighten motor mounts.
Install y pipe and leave loose.
Install Catback and leave loose.
Get everything lined up and then start tightening everything down little by little. DO NOT do it all at once.
Install old O2 sensors. DO NOT USE new o2 sensors until the headers have had time to break in.
Install spark plugs and reconnect plug wires. Some need to be done from the bottom so keep the car in the air.
Install steering shaft and oil dipstick.
Lower car.
Install alternator.
If you got your computer tuned this is where you would install your new tuned computer. RECOMMENDED.
Reconnect battery and start car checking for leaks.
Enjoy the new power!
On a side note, when I installed the exhaust clamps I used band clamps. I still had a few exhaust leaks so recently I went back through and used aluminum foil with high temp copper silicone RTV. I let it set for about 3 days and I have yet to have an exhaust leak.


