worked going through the bottom

 

HAH header swap, why do people complain about this so much? Now that ive done it, well mostly (waiting on a metal cutting bit to cut the exhaust for the ypipe)...i dont understand why people say its so hard. If I had not run into stupid setbacks like my plug wires had straight boots on them which rubbed up on the header, so I had to locate, strip, and reinstall angled boots. COuldnt get an o2 loose so that took some time....but as far as getting the headers themselves in....CAKE WALK. I left the alt and AC in too...they both went in form the bottom, and beleive it on not the passenger side was the easiest. had to remove the engine temp sensor form the drive head, pull oil dipstick, oil filter, disconect steering, and that was all the clearance "issues". WHat actualyl took the longest was extending the o2s

also on the gaskets...the GM gaskets dont want to work right with the headers, so i have a set for sale if anyone needs them. I jsut used the copper ones form pacesetter.

dynotune is soon to come

 

i actually would prefer this over an optiswap...so if youve done an opti...headers are no where near as a pain in the ***

 

I didn't feel there was anything particularly difficult about changing an optispark. I can't imagine headers being easier. Considering that I'm planning to put some on my car, it's nice to know that some people feel that's the case.

 

I don't buy that at all - I've done several of each and there's a lot more problems that can come up with a non-standard exhaust install than an OEM parts replacement. I'm not saying that doing an opti is fun - nothing much on our cars is fun except driving them.

 

im gonna admit i didnt go though all 3 pages cuz i see these topics all the time.

I did pacesetter coated long tube race headers on my 96 trans am, in my garage, on jack stands, it took me and my dad 5 hours, from taking the first bolt out of the stock mani, to start up. THIS IS AN EASY JOB

I DID NOT remove the motor mount, its useless.

I took the steering shaft out completely, took out the temp sensor,starter and thats it, i put them both in from the bottom, my passanger side literally slid right in, in about 5 seconds, just try putting them in diffrent positions to get them in, the driver side was really just as easy, i left the wrapping on the headers, and then cut them when i had them in place, i dont have one scratch, nick, dent, nothing.

the copper gaskets are very good, and i used stainless band clamps for the rest of it, i also bought extensions, but i found the 24in extention is a big to long, and if i had to do it again, i would just get 2 12in extensions. Nows a good time to do some new Gm o2s, i also dont reccomend cutting and splicing the o2s

we did Flps in my cousins 94 trans am, we did it about the same way.

Heres an install pic on my car http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...r/000_0549.jpg

 

everybody's experience is gonna be different. It's simple to say headers are easy if when you put yours in you didn't snap off any bolts or have any stuck or one with the head screwed up or anything like that. I spent two hours on ONE manifold bolt because it had a irregular head and I couldnt' get any socket or wrench on it. My brother in law had his done at a shop... they snapped off 5 manifold bolts and had the car for two days. I'm glad some people can do it in an afternoon, but the header install has a monstrous reputation for a reason.

 

reason i say it was easier is physically easier. I absolutely HATED my optiswap. I would totally prefer, time permitting, to do a header swap over another opti swap. that is just my preferance.

side note if you have ever done headers in a 3rd gen, as I had done a Edelbrock TES swap. Long Tubes in a 4th gen are FAAAAR easier.

yea the ones I put in were race headers. the biggest problems Ive run into were just stupid ones, ill list the problems I ran into so anyoneelse might beable to see.

install notes:
Didnt unbolt motor mounts. I did remove the starter but that was before trying to fit the headers in. I had to remove it due to how my facotry y-pipe was "rigged".

make sure all your plug boots are angled
BE SURE to remoce the temp sensor on driver head
BE SURE to remove steering linkage
I had a hooker catback put on at mineke, and they cut and welded things wrong, so when I put on my off road y-pipe things didnt line up right so it took a little cutting and what not to mate it up right.
Have some PB Blater for O2 removal

other than that no real issue int he actual instal itself