So the car runs 180 going down the interstate, and normal driving. But if I stop at a red light for any period of time, my temp climbs to 210 and sometimes more, but when I take off it cools back down till I stop again. Anybody have this issue, fans are working as far as I know also. Thanks in advance.

 

That's normal operation for cars with electric fans.

 

What can I do to keep it down? I'm trying to keep it at 180 at the track so that maybe I can be a little more consistent.

 

Get a tune and have them alter the fan turn-on, turn-off temps, along with a 180 thermostat.

 

Stock is 180*F. He want an LT1-specific (not generic SBC) 160*F thermostat.

 

Buy and install the 160 degree thermostat and get it tuned for that. You can also add a switch that will allow you to turn the fans on whenever.

Hypertech 1008 Powerstat 160 Degree Thermostat GM LT1 759609000460 | eBay

SLP Performance 63011 - SLP Performance Electric Fan Control Switches - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

What about taking two of the relays out, running a wire from the fuse panel and put it in the place of relay #2 I think it is, and turn them on that way. It really only bothers me at the track when I want the car at 180* has anybody done what I'm talking about? Will a hand held tuner do the fans, I think a friend of mine has one, and I really don't want to do a full tune til I at least install a cam. What all will a hand held like superchips do for my car? I do plan on buying a 160 state but that will be after I figure this fan thing out.

 

Just looked at the links supplied by Mr.mint and the slp fan control is the way to go. I like that I can turn the fans on and retain factory operation. That and a 160* state seems to be the way to go.

 

...or you can make your own fan switch for a few bucks. Works just like the SLP one.

 

I used a Hypertech for years and only used the 160 degree stat, tire size and gear ratio change. They aren't that cheap and if you buy or build your own switch for the fan, you can use that at the track and do a tune and thermostat later. Just a few options for you to pick from.

 

I installed a dual temp sensor in the waterpump and moved the head sensor wire to there. Now the gage reads the same as the computer sees and not the fluctuating head temp.

In case anybody is interested, here is where I found out how to do it:

The HERD Garage Forum - LT1/LT4 temperature gauge anomalous readings

 

While that's helpful, I doubt it would solve overheating problems, it would only make the gauge more accurate

I've had ZERO issue with the proper LT1 Specific 160 deg. T-Stat, and a PCMForLess Tune accounting for it. Gauge sits at 1/4 while driving normal, and will get as high as 1/2 stuck in stopped traffic for more than an hour. PS - It's using the Stock Sensor Location.

 

I don't have a problem with my gauge being inaccurate. It tracks with what the PCM sees.

 

The car is not overheating to the point its gonna melt down, I just want my temp lower while sitting in the staging lanes. The car has taken the abuse I've thrown at it like a champ, ive made well over 60 passes and about a dozen John Force style burnouts, and I want to keep it that way until my budget allows some serious upgrades. Only issues I have with the car is the cooling situation an oil leak that I finally figured out, which just so y'all know the oil sending unit was about a half turn from FALLING OUT, and I have a lifter or rocker making a heck of a noise till it gets oiled good, and I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. So I'm stumped on that till tomorrow.

As far as my cooling situation I'm goin to use the 160 stat and the fan switch from slp till I do the upgrades that require a tune, and James Short at Race Proven Performance near Lexington ky will be doing it.

 

Shoebox, it looks like you have put alot of time and energy into your diagrams and information, and I want to thank you. Some of your old post have been great help to me and a couple friends of mine. I appreciate it, thanks.