Im getting ready to order my 165 thermo and one thing im wondering is if it gonna run TOO cold for the motor? Can some shed some light on this for me so i can quit worrying and order it

 

What is your reason for getting one? With the 180* thermostat and water wetter, my car stays at just a hair over 160* all the time. Personally, I don't see a reason to go any lower.

 

yea alot of f body guys tell me this but the way i look at it is with my s10 its alot of motor in a small engine bay. Hot days it gets to about 200-210 and on the highway it sky rockets

Also Ion I need to know what i have to do to send my ecu back to get my air pump taken off and retuned? Do i need to fill out another tech sheet?

 

I had a 180 in mine and the car would run constant at 200 deg. I put a 160 hypertech in and I am running at a constant 170. If you need the heater for the winter stay with the 180 thermo cause you will have no heat.

 

Not a problem... Its a show truck and hardely ever sees rain and no snow at all.

 

Wait, 160* Hypertech is what I have... duh!
165* will be just fine... if they make one for the reverse cooled LT1 that is.

 

Would be sort of odd for it to run 160degF with a 180degF t'stat

I run the Hypertech 160degF t'stat, and my heater works fine. You're going to find that sitting in traffic, the engine is still going to push the coolant temp up, to whatever you have your fans set at. "Cooler" is not necessarily better.... when we were tuning my setup on the engine dyno, we got the best results with the coolant at 195degF.

 

160* Hypertech

Opens - 165*
Fully open - 175*
Closes 160*

Mine stays right around 170 on the highway and requires 3 consecuative red lights for the temperature to rise. As soon as you get moving it cools back down so it's not a big deal. 165 degree thermostat is perfectly fine.

 

That could be a spark thing though right? Plugs not being gapped wide enough or too wide, and spark not burning hot enough to ignite the fuel. As long as the oil is at operating temp you shouldn't loose hp becuase of the colder thermostat. I think it would be a spark gap/firing issue that's causing it not to burn properly with the colder temps.

 

I know I'll get flamed for this but, don't waste your money on a Hypertech Reverse cooled. I've ran the old style in both my LT1 cars with zero problems, for about 5yrs in one an 2 in the other, both cars run at 170 usually, and their only a couple bucks at your local parts store.

Jason

 

Remember, the warmer the coolant temperature-the more heat being removed from the cylider. The cooler the temp-the less heat being removed from the cylinder. The cooling system is designed to maintain cylinder temp, generally mistaken for cooling the complete engine. Now with lower coolant temps, the oil has to work harder to cool the internal parts, which reduces the life of the oil. Oil does about 2/3 of engine cooling. Also, in California, with higher cylinder temps means higher NOX emissions. Now I know your going to say in your state you don't do testing, but I'm sure your government is doing some kind of air quality study that may change the way they will do testing in the future. And I know INJUNEER your going to say something that a lower temp thermostat doesn't change anything and doesn't hurt anything but you can't change the laws of physics. With one reaction there is an equal and opposite reaction.

 

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The colder the coolant temperature the more heat it can dissipate. If your coolant goes to 210 degrees, thats the boiling point of water and so it is harder to get water to heat much above 230 degrees. The colder thermostat allows for more heat to be dissapated through the radiator. That is physics 101.

The warmer the cylinder temperature the lower the emmissions are. The warmer air/fuel allows it to burn more thoroughly.

 

With a 16 lb radiator cap, the boiling point of water at sea level is 257 degrees. There's a reason why a cooling fan comes on at 230 degrees. the water (which is what removes the heat, the anti-freeze is alcohol and alcohol doesn't have any heat transference properties, and is there for lubrication and corosion) has to absorb the heat before it can remove the heat. The amount of heat is measured in BTU's. The more BTU's removed, the more efficient the system is. If you have 200 degrees of coolant temp, and 70 degrees of ambient temp going across the radiator, that's 130 degrees of difference. If you have 160 degrees going across the radiator that's only 90 degrees of difference. The higher the difference the more BTU's will be removed. The cooler the temp in the cylinder when the air/fuel mixture goes in, the greater the temp difference will be when the mixture is compressed and ignited. More temperature difference - more pressure created - more output. Temperature = pressure.

 

the coolant temperature is reduced by allowing it to LOSE heat to the atmosphere via the radiator. So cooler coolant is remove MORE heat from teh motor and giving it off to the atmosphere.

HOTTER coolant is losing less heat to the atmosphere and is therefore less able to cool down the motor.