Hey guys, I'm about to replace my opti. I've done the swap before, but it was over 3 years ago, and I wanted to look at a guide to refresh my memory and in case I forgot any tools I might need.

It seems all the old opti swap links are broken. I guess not so many people are working on lt1s anymore

Anyways, does anyone have any links that are still working?

 

http://www.z28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47479

 

Nah, everyone just knows what they are doing, now.

It's the same as it was before. I'm sure you will remember, once you start.

 

Thanks for the link ricehammer.

Shoebox, I hope I do remember again, I must say though many of the common problems I remember seeing on this forum daily don't seem to be asked much more. Either people really do know what they're doing or we're a dying breed

One thing I don't quite remember is if I need to use a puller puller/installer to get the crank pulley off, or if it comes off on its own. Isn't a 3 jaw puller recommended? What about for installation?

 

You may or may not need a 3 jaw puller to get the pulley off. Some come off more easily than others. Installation is nothing more than bolting it on. The hub does not need to come off for an opti swap.

 

Some additional advice. Once you have the Opti installed and before you install the water pump/coolant and everything else, you should do a "quick start" and "very short run" to make sure you have the Opti keyed correctly with the cam. Then if it won't run, it is easy to remove and recheck the Opti.

I've never had a problem with this myself, but I've seen where "several" people here on the forum have "somehow" miss-keyed the Opti, then had to take "everything" apart again.

Good luck!

WD

 

It is also a good time to replace the seal if it is leaking.

 

No, I agree with shbox, you do not need to pull the crank pulley for an opti swap. Unless you are changing your timing belt? Then now is a good time since you'll have everything nearly to that point.

 

Every LTX engine I've seen has a timing chain and not a timing belt!

WD

 

If you are going to agree with me, you will have to agree that the hub does not need to come off. The pulley does.

 

I have an "aftermarket" SFI keyed hub (round facing) and I "can not" remove the complete Opti or even the cap without pulling the crank hub.

Although, as you have pointed out with the "factory hub" (w/ three spokes), you can turn the hub to the correct position with the spokes in the right position and remove the Opti.

WD

 

Unless noted, I am speaking regarding stock parts. Your info regarding the SFI is good to note for those that have it.