Opti removal
Re: Opti removal
Originally Posted by 94m5
bring it to beardstown and ill do it for ya........
thats the only way i'll take it anywhere to do anything on my car and i'd be standing there watchingotherwise i do all my own work
Sorry its kinda long..but i hope this helps you out..
its really not difficult at all. I lost my "opti-virginty" about three months ago
Its cake to pull of it off. You just have to put some good music on and it helps to have someone else there..but I never did
You really only need to buy the Opti and the Waterpump gaskets (i also purchased a $3 thing of 'blue' gasket sealant). Thats all I really replaced. I think I used the 10mm and 9/16" socket for almost everything. You will need one of those 'deep' sockets for the 9/16" on the Waterpump..where the bracket below the Ignition Coil is and shares the bolt with the WP..(not sure what thats for..It actually is never connected to anything in any picutre I've ever seen. Also for the bracket that holds the Coil on needs deep socket.
I put mine on wrong and had to uninstall..and reinstall everything..But if you realize your mistakes soon enough, you can actually salvage the Gaskets for the WP. I bet I could easily remove everything and put it all back together (replace the opti again) in less than 2 hours. The longest wait is draining the coolant..I never even used the block drain plugs. I simply drained it from the radiator and the 'bleed' screws near the thermostat housing..there are two (you can find just about everything you need to know on Shoebox's website..he's awsome for knowing what you need/need to do even with pictures provided). If you chose not to use the drain plugs..some coolant will come out of the bottom few bolts in the WP. This didnt bother me since i have something on the ground to catch it and I wipe the underside of my engine area down anyways after working on it.
I can assure you..its quick and simple(with confidence)..pull the air damn off under neath (like 5 bolts)...then pull out the radiator fan assembly..It literally took me about 5 minutes to pull off the radiator shield, and simply lift up the fan assembly from its spot it 'rests' in..and drop it out through the bottom (disconnect the two plugs that are in each fan). You may not need to go that far..the first time i simply unbolted the 3 bolts that hold on the RH side (passenger side) fan. Then you just unbolt the 'Balancer Wheel/Hub' (3 9/16" bolts or 5/8".forget. After you've taken the drive belt off (1/2" socket on the tensioner). Sorry this isnt all in the exact order to do this
This is actually a short version of the steps (and incomplete) on a how-to fix your opti. There are plenty of posts of how to..I just thought I'd let you know its quite simple...the only thing you can mess up is the placement of the 'dowl' in the opti shaft..make sure its lined up perfectly when you go to put it back together! This is partially why..the second time I took it off to reinstall it..I pulled the fan-assembly..so i could literally SIT inside my engine bay from underneath with a flashlight..to look inside the Timing cover (I think thats what it is..would have to look again lol
). The 'flats' have to match up perfectly between the inside of the Timing cover and the opti or it WILL NOT work...Learned the hard way
Again..sorry this is long, I hope you dont actually pay someone to do this cause the experience has GREATLY helped me understand more about my car and how-to of the LT1. The best way to know what is wrong and how to fix anything on your car..is NOT to take it to a shop..as far as bolt-ons go. Just my .02 (and some extra change for ya
) Good Luck!
(by the way..this was done on my 94Z as well
)
its really not difficult at all. I lost my "opti-virginty" about three months ago
Its cake to pull of it off. You just have to put some good music on and it helps to have someone else there..but I never did
You really only need to buy the Opti and the Waterpump gaskets (i also purchased a $3 thing of 'blue' gasket sealant). Thats all I really replaced. I think I used the 10mm and 9/16" socket for almost everything. You will need one of those 'deep' sockets for the 9/16" on the Waterpump..where the bracket below the Ignition Coil is and shares the bolt with the WP..(not sure what thats for..It actually is never connected to anything in any picutre I've ever seen. Also for the bracket that holds the Coil on needs deep socket.
I put mine on wrong and had to uninstall..and reinstall everything..But if you realize your mistakes soon enough, you can actually salvage the Gaskets for the WP. I bet I could easily remove everything and put it all back together (replace the opti again) in less than 2 hours. The longest wait is draining the coolant..I never even used the block drain plugs. I simply drained it from the radiator and the 'bleed' screws near the thermostat housing..there are two (you can find just about everything you need to know on Shoebox's website..he's awsome for knowing what you need/need to do even with pictures provided). If you chose not to use the drain plugs..some coolant will come out of the bottom few bolts in the WP. This didnt bother me since i have something on the ground to catch it and I wipe the underside of my engine area down anyways after working on it.
I can assure you..its quick and simple(with confidence)..pull the air damn off under neath (like 5 bolts)...then pull out the radiator fan assembly..It literally took me about 5 minutes to pull off the radiator shield, and simply lift up the fan assembly from its spot it 'rests' in..and drop it out through the bottom (disconnect the two plugs that are in each fan). You may not need to go that far..the first time i simply unbolted the 3 bolts that hold on the RH side (passenger side) fan. Then you just unbolt the 'Balancer Wheel/Hub' (3 9/16" bolts or 5/8".forget. After you've taken the drive belt off (1/2" socket on the tensioner). Sorry this isnt all in the exact order to do this
This is actually a short version of the steps (and incomplete) on a how-to fix your opti. There are plenty of posts of how to..I just thought I'd let you know its quite simple...the only thing you can mess up is the placement of the 'dowl' in the opti shaft..make sure its lined up perfectly when you go to put it back together! This is partially why..the second time I took it off to reinstall it..I pulled the fan-assembly..so i could literally SIT inside my engine bay from underneath with a flashlight..to look inside the Timing cover (I think thats what it is..would have to look again lol
). The 'flats' have to match up perfectly between the inside of the Timing cover and the opti or it WILL NOT work...Learned the hard way
Again..sorry this is long, I hope you dont actually pay someone to do this cause the experience has GREATLY helped me understand more about my car and how-to of the LT1. The best way to know what is wrong and how to fix anything on your car..is NOT to take it to a shop..as far as bolt-ons go. Just my .02 (and some extra change for ya
) Good Luck!(by the way..this was done on my 94Z as well
)
Re: Opti removal
I got the old opti off. All seems to be cake so far. I think I found something of interest though.
The back of the opti was ever so slightly damp w/ oil. There was also about one drop worth at the bottom of the opti. Is this common? It had me suprised and wondering if this is out of the ordinary. I have a BRAND NEW FELPRO seal on the timing cover for the opti.
Thanks for your help!!!
The back of the opti was ever so slightly damp w/ oil. There was also about one drop worth at the bottom of the opti. Is this common? It had me suprised and wondering if this is out of the ordinary. I have a BRAND NEW FELPRO seal on the timing cover for the opti.
Thanks for your help!!!
Re: Opti removal
The dowel pin only goes on one way, so its pretty hard to screw it up.
A good idea if you have the water pump off is too tap that bottom drain hole and install a rubber hose or tubing beyone the bottom of the opti, that way if the "weep" hole ever starts leaking when the water pump goes out, it won't take out your opti. I haven't done this yet because my opti hasn't failed me lately. My original opti failed back in '95 because I hosed the engine compartment down. It has been incredibly reliable ever since. PS do not hose your engine down.
A good idea if you have the water pump off is too tap that bottom drain hole and install a rubber hose or tubing beyone the bottom of the opti, that way if the "weep" hole ever starts leaking when the water pump goes out, it won't take out your opti. I haven't done this yet because my opti hasn't failed me lately. My original opti failed back in '95 because I hosed the engine compartment down. It has been incredibly reliable ever since. PS do not hose your engine down.
Re: Opti removal
Ok guys. Here is my main concern. The SEAL. Do those typically sweat a little oil? I have a BRAND new seal on there and figured it should be working properly but this has me concerned.
Upon further inspection I noticed the lip on the seal was pulled out. However, how might I check this seal to insure it's good? I can't seem to find another one in town. Has to be special ordered, they don't know if it's the right one and all that BS.
Thanks for the help!
Upon further inspection I noticed the lip on the seal was pulled out. However, how might I check this seal to insure it's good? I can't seem to find another one in town. Has to be special ordered, they don't know if it's the right one and all that BS.
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by weinerschizel; Aug 15, 2004 at 01:26 PM.
Re: Opti removal
Are you sure it's the opti seal?
The water pump seals have a habit of being bad, even new ones..
My opti seal doesn't leak at all [so to anwer your Q no it isn't normal to weep etc], nor does the water pump sealleak[it took 2 tries to get the WP right tho]
The water pump seals have a habit of being bad, even new ones..
My opti seal doesn't leak at all [so to anwer your Q no it isn't normal to weep etc], nor does the water pump sealleak[it took 2 tries to get the WP right tho]


