Exactly what do you have to do and what parts need removed to install a new opti? I kinda want to do it myself and save some cash, but if it requires too much work (which I don't have much time for right now) then I think I'll just take it to my shop. I did a search but didn't find much.
Thanks

 

i just had my opti replaced tuesday, from what i hear its a bi***. They also said its a good idea to replace the water pump with the opti because playing around with the old one may make it leak in the future.

 

I replaced the opti myself. I think it's easier to do then it sounds. If anything it's just really time consuming. This should help.

http://ken.lowrance.com/projects/CSI...mp/Default.htm

It explains how to replace the pump but that's also everything you need to do to replace the opti.

 

Yeah, I think I can just get new water pump gaskets instead of a new pump to help avoid leaks though.

 

Just found this install guide... http://www.houston-f-body.org/tech/optispark/
Is it a legit source or not?

 

That one will also work. You may also want to use the link I posted above because it has good pictures. As for the water pump, If you have over 100,000 miles, I would replace it. I was on a long road trip when mine decided to take a dump on me. It would also be pretty frustrating if you do the opti and then soon after have to do it all over again cause your pump seal went out and leaked all over the opti and ruined it like mine did.

 

It takes a really long time and a lot of profanity. I changed the water pump as well. Putting the balancer back on is a bitch if you don't have the tools. BIG NO NO. If your gonna buy a new water pump don't get some cheap discount piece of crap. It will leak on you faster than your old one. Also if your gonna change the disty why not get an MSD. It should last much longer.

 

I guess I'll throw in a water pump with the opti, but I think I'm gonna end up taking it to a shop and paying for labor because I no longer have the time to do any time consuming jobs on the car right now. As for the MSD opti, I think I'll hold off on that until they work out all the kinks because I've already heard a couple issues on this forum alone.

 

What did you find so hard about the balancer?It's only 3 bolts..
Some people have a prob getting it off, if it's rusted on.. but putting it back on shouldn't be a prob..
You didn't take the HUB off did you? You don't need to remove the hub to change the opti..

 

The balancer was one of the easier parts of the job for me. I think the hardest part of the job was getting the intake elbow back on without ripping it. The rest is really all nuts and bolts.

 

I don't know what the problem was. I couldn't get it to slide back on right. And when I did, I had no room bang it in.

 

Some of you guys are little girls when it comes to working on your cars.. damn.

Opti swap is simple.

Take off intake elbow, take off balancer (you might need a puller if it's been on for a while), pull off the AIR pump if you still have it, remove the water pump (6 bolts, 9/16" socket, use a swivel for the one behind the p/s pump if necessary, but it shoudln't be..), then pull off the 3 bolts holding the opti.. 3 bolts, 10mm or 3/8" don't remember. R&R

 

Little girls? NO!!! Some of you guys have to much money and can buy anything you want, while the rest of us have to borrow tools from 5 different friends and reinstall a 125,000 mile water pump over the new cap and rotor. Little girls,,, not in my face!

 

So just for clarification, all you need for an opti replacement is:

Optispark (obviously)
Water Pump Gaskets (2)
Teflon thread sealant

Correct? What is this OPTI SEAL that some people refer to, while others don't?? Do I need it? Anyone have a part number? Thanks alot - I'm replacing the opti on sunday.

 

Why do you have to "bang it in"..... its a loose fit? The only reason it MAY be difficult to remove the damper/pulley from the hub is if it has a lot of rust on it (most of them do). In that case, after you got it off, you should have removed the rust, wire brushed the mating surfaces of the hub and the pulley, put some anti-sieze on it and bolted it back on - no "banging" required.