I know, it's a terrible picture, but if you look closely, you can see that where the wires wrap around that post, one of them (i believe it's the red one for ignition feed). goes to either pin b or c looking into opti harness. it was left center. anyways. it shorted to that post, and the wire cases are all melted and pulled back from the grommet / seal. is there anything wiring related that could cause this. before pulling the opti, i had good voltage and ground to it, but i did not have any change on the signal wires to the icm. also, if this was the ignition feed wire, i'll find out tomorrow for sure if it is, i would have been sending voltage to the cylinder block through the opti. what other problem could/should i expect from this. i'll be sending it back to MSD to get it rebuilt since i don't have the cash for ac/delco. this one lasted 3 years. I only wonder if i don't have a serious wiring issue because this will be my 5th opti failure since '06. 2 of which were definitely caused by coolant leaks. For what it's worth, the top left opti cap screw was backed waaaaay out. cap was clean/ no signs of arcing anyways. shutter wheel was not clogged up either. although there was signs of some rust on the rotor screws.

 

Being that you have had a opti problem every year for the last five years I would go with this ignition http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/default.aspx. I know it will cost some cash, but in the long run I think it will balance out; you will never have to pull the front of the motor apart again for ignition problems. I just finished my 24x ignition it cost me $800 plus the dyno tune; it is well worth it so far.

 

It could be due to MSD box you're running. I don't have any first hand experience but that seems to be a common concern when reading posts like these....

 

+1
My 6al burned up a stock opti and a msd pro billet. It took the stock one out in about a month , and the msd out in about 5 months. I have been back to stock for a little while now with no 6al and its all good.

 

I see. I have ran it before for a few months without the 6al hooked up, but it ran better with it hooked up. however i did have some small intake leaks and a few other problems which may have been why it didn't run so hot without the msd. i didn't think of that. Thanks for that info. any idea what i should watch for since i sent voltage through my block?