opinion on these/ rotors
opinion on these/ rotors
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2452620056
Seems to be a good deal. Plus they are just slotted. Ive heard not to go with drilled and slotted like these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2452334431
Which would you guys do. Just the slotted or drilled and slotted.
Seems to be a good deal. Plus they are just slotted. Ive heard not to go with drilled and slotted like these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2452334431
Which would you guys do. Just the slotted or drilled and slotted.
Cross drilling is just a Gimmick, it offers no performance improvement and shortens the life of the rotor. Its a myth that you need them just like aftermarket LCAs.
read this:
http://mtfba.org/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=122&
read this:
http://mtfba.org/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=122&
Chris, its no myth about LCA's at all. Where do you get your info?
anyways dont waste your money on slotted rotors. they wont help at all. instead save your money and buy the LS1 brake upgrade kit. there will be some good results from those
anyways dont waste your money on slotted rotors. they wont help at all. instead save your money and buy the LS1 brake upgrade kit. there will be some good results from those
This says it better than I can here:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1701/bushings.htm
In a nutshell the rear LCA only needs to be strong longitudinally. Lateral stiffness is handled by the Panhard rod so there really are no side loads on the LCAs. Torsionally, you actually want the LCA to twist because if it did not you would limit your wheel movement and enter into suspension bind. The stock LCAs are more than strong enough for what they need to do, some 1LE bushings are all you really need.
I'm guilty of it too, I have BMR tubulars...but are they necessary? No, but everybody out there with an F-body thinks they need them.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1701/bushings.htm
In a nutshell the rear LCA only needs to be strong longitudinally. Lateral stiffness is handled by the Panhard rod so there really are no side loads on the LCAs. Torsionally, you actually want the LCA to twist because if it did not you would limit your wheel movement and enter into suspension bind. The stock LCAs are more than strong enough for what they need to do, some 1LE bushings are all you really need.
I'm guilty of it too, I have BMR tubulars...but are they necessary? No, but everybody out there with an F-body thinks they need them.
I got the secret to braking power and it lies on the ABS unit. There are two bolts on there with nipples on top. One is stealth and one works to let pressure off the back thus putting more pressure on the front. Remove the functional bolt and put in the stealth bolt and you got more stopping power to make you say WHOA. I did this on my Impala ( bolt is on the brake fluid canister) and everyone who rides now cant believe how it stops on a dime. They alway think I spend money on these big brake system of some sort then they relieze who they are talking to (EL chepo).
But I want these for the look as well as to see if it really worked or not. Then Im gonna do the Stealth Bolt Mod after I install the rotors. I guess Im gonna go slotted since the drilled cracks.
But I want these for the look as well as to see if it really worked or not. Then Im gonna do the Stealth Bolt Mod after I install the rotors. I guess Im gonna go slotted since the drilled cracks.
This Stealth Bolt mod sounds hilljack to me. I need to research it more though. "better" brakes are not really about stopping power on a 1 stop occassion, as almost any car can lock the tires under full braking...therefore increased braking "power" is useless. Better brakes have to do with increased resistance to fade, which has more to do with the ability to store heat.
Your tires limit your braking ability more than the actual brakes do.
Your tires limit your braking ability more than the actual brakes do.
I can tell you right now that the drilled rotors on my car do not fade nearly as much as the stockers did. Now I changed pads at the same time and it may be the pad (raybestos red) making the difference.
Ceramic pads have their place. They are very low dusting.
But, they hold heat like a brick oven (ceramic does that). If you use the brakes a bunch in regular driving, getting them really hot, or you autocross, you don't want ceramics. Since Ceramic is an insulator, the heat in the pad won't transfer into the caliper and be dissipated to the atmosphere. What happens when you stop the car is the rotor is literally baked by the two pads and it will warp.
I wouldn't even use them on a drag car, because you can build up some good heat slowing down after the traps....drive back to the pits and shut the car off and then the ceramic pads are sitting there cooking your rotors.
But, they hold heat like a brick oven (ceramic does that). If you use the brakes a bunch in regular driving, getting them really hot, or you autocross, you don't want ceramics. Since Ceramic is an insulator, the heat in the pad won't transfer into the caliper and be dissipated to the atmosphere. What happens when you stop the car is the rotor is literally baked by the two pads and it will warp.
I wouldn't even use them on a drag car, because you can build up some good heat slowing down after the traps....drive back to the pits and shut the car off and then the ceramic pads are sitting there cooking your rotors.
Originally posted by Chris 96 WS6
Ceramic pads have their place. They are very low dusting.
But, they hold heat like a brick oven (ceramic does that). If you use the brakes a bunch in regular driving, getting them really hot, or you autocross, you don't want ceramics. Since Ceramic is an insulator, the heat in the pad won't transfer into the caliper and be dissipated to the atmosphere. What happens when you stop the car is the rotor is literally baked by the two pads and it will warp.
I wouldn't even use them on a drag car, because you can build up some good heat slowing down after the traps....drive back to the pits and shut the car off and then the ceramic pads are sitting there cooking your rotors.
Ceramic pads have their place. They are very low dusting.
But, they hold heat like a brick oven (ceramic does that). If you use the brakes a bunch in regular driving, getting them really hot, or you autocross, you don't want ceramics. Since Ceramic is an insulator, the heat in the pad won't transfer into the caliper and be dissipated to the atmosphere. What happens when you stop the car is the rotor is literally baked by the two pads and it will warp.
I wouldn't even use them on a drag car, because you can build up some good heat slowing down after the traps....drive back to the pits and shut the car off and then the ceramic pads are sitting there cooking your rotors.
So knowing that would they be ok for semi daily use. Thats why I want them because of the low dusting issue.
Just my 2 cents worth but I have cross drilled and slotted rotors on my 94 and it stops better than an LS1.
We were racing one nite and it was close so we were both pushing it and in front of us the light changed we both stood on the brakes and I made the stop but the LS1 car did not he gave up and rolled through the light.
Mine are autozone Aimco Extreme rotors and so far I have been very happy with them.
We were racing one nite and it was close so we were both pushing it and in front of us the light changed we both stood on the brakes and I made the stop but the LS1 car did not he gave up and rolled through the light.
Mine are autozone Aimco Extreme rotors and so far I have been very happy with them.
I have those slotted rotors, been running them for almost 2 years now with EBC Greenstuff pads.
Wow. That's all I can say. First time I drove it after the brake job it felt like my previous 99 did when braking. Really grabby, but not harsh either.
And, they haven't warped on me. I'm kind of hard on them at the track too.
I'd give them two thumbs up.
Wow. That's all I can say. First time I drove it after the brake job it felt like my previous 99 did when braking. Really grabby, but not harsh either.
And, they haven't warped on me. I'm kind of hard on them at the track too.
I'd give them two thumbs up.
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