Well I wont be doing the RR install this weekend. The CC 7/16 studs are too long.
The studs threads in and stops befor the plate is even touched. There appears to be a piece of wire like a heli=coil in the hole. The stud appears to be bottoming out against the helicoil.
Do I need to drind some off of the bottom of the studs?

whats up?

What brand and model number 7/16" studs do I need for LT1 with guide plates.

Thanks

 

Is the helicoil crossing thru the bottom of the thread hole? If so you can knock that out, JUST DONT KNOCK IT INTO THE PORT!

 

I did some searching on this.

The ARP Studs are .700 - .710 long on the base.

The CC studs are .750 long on the base.

So the CC studs are more likely to hit bottom, but not by much.

Have you measured the stock studs?

The helicoil wire can be broken out with needle nose pliers. Bend the wire back and forth until it breaks at the bend. I have not tried this but I found a post that suggested this approach.

I am concerned that my ARP studs 3/8 will be too long also I have the ARP 134-7104 with the .710 base. I got them from jegs, supposed to be for sbc but the 134-7101 is also listed for SBC and the base is .700 long. I think I might have been better off with the shorter stud. Not looking forward to breaking 16 heilcoil wires with needle nose. I am not running guide plates so my install may suck more than yours.

I hope somebody will chime in that has done this recently.

Z28

 

The best way to break off the tang on a heli-coil is to get a punch or other solid object about half the size of the hole and swiftly strike the tang at the corner.

I have always had the best luck with that procedure.

 

Are you using guide plates? If not, maybe you got studs for guide plates?

 

I was very leary of trying to break it off. I decided to just grind 3/32" off the bottom of the studs. This still left plenty of thread to bit, more so than the stock ones.

Yes I used the GM guide plates.
The left head is totally done.
Thanks guys.