Oliver billet rods and probe pistons
Oliver billet rods and probe pistons
Does anyone have a good source for Oliver billet rods and probe pistions. I have checked ebay a few internet suppliers and our vendors but not found any good deals.
I need a set of Oliver billet rods, 6" stroke.
I also need two probe pistons 13719-030 (you don't want to know).
Thanks in advance for time and effort.
Jim
PS: maybe I should have put this in Wanted to buy but I doubt I am going to find these on the board. It is like buying Weld Racing wheels on this board!
I need a set of Oliver billet rods, 6" stroke.
I also need two probe pistons 13719-030 (you don't want to know).
Thanks in advance for time and effort.
Jim
PS: maybe I should have put this in Wanted to buy but I doubt I am going to find these on the board. It is like buying Weld Racing wheels on this board!
Re: Oliver billet rods and probe pistons
http://www.rpmmachine.com/probe-srs-...350-dome.shtml
flatlander racing also lists that part # on thier site
flatlander racing also lists that part # on thier site
Re: Oliver billet rods and probe pistons
Yes, it is BIG TIME overkill your all correct!
I just had this 'past' 383 built and somehow one of the rod nuts (Eagle I beams) was not torqued down properly. This basically destroyed the block, two rods and two pistons, oil pan, pump, etc. and maybe the crank. The first engine builder said he would build it again no charge. I know he does not have the money and now lives 3 hours away.
My new engine builder said he would not build it unless it had bullet proof parts. I don't have a house or a garage right now as I am building a new home so I am at the mercy of others.
The Eagle rods were only recommeded for 6000 RPM's max and I had turned 7500 on a pass with 26" tires but now have 28.5" tires.
If I didn't have the drag strip car set up for a small block, with Fuel Injection fuel system (1/2" lines) and aeroquip pump, with shocks and springs (front) for a smalll block I would probably put in a 502 or 454 NA.
I don' t like power adder's like super chargers or Twin Turbos or NO2. I like N/A , high compression. And the probes will give me 13.5 or 14-1 CR and I am running 110 race fuel.
If anyone has a better idea to make HP I am very open to sugestions. Some have said to go with a flat top piston and deck the block or shave the heads down further to do the same CR. But I am thinking that the dome pistons will give a better flow and combustion.
Really, give me some ideas.
Thanks
Jim in Orlando FL
PS: I am working 6 days a week and two jobs to support my racing adiction.
I just had this 'past' 383 built and somehow one of the rod nuts (Eagle I beams) was not torqued down properly. This basically destroyed the block, two rods and two pistons, oil pan, pump, etc. and maybe the crank. The first engine builder said he would build it again no charge. I know he does not have the money and now lives 3 hours away.
My new engine builder said he would not build it unless it had bullet proof parts. I don't have a house or a garage right now as I am building a new home so I am at the mercy of others.
The Eagle rods were only recommeded for 6000 RPM's max and I had turned 7500 on a pass with 26" tires but now have 28.5" tires.
If I didn't have the drag strip car set up for a small block, with Fuel Injection fuel system (1/2" lines) and aeroquip pump, with shocks and springs (front) for a smalll block I would probably put in a 502 or 454 NA.
I don' t like power adder's like super chargers or Twin Turbos or NO2. I like N/A , high compression. And the probes will give me 13.5 or 14-1 CR and I am running 110 race fuel.
If anyone has a better idea to make HP I am very open to sugestions. Some have said to go with a flat top piston and deck the block or shave the heads down further to do the same CR. But I am thinking that the dome pistons will give a better flow and combustion.
Really, give me some ideas.
Thanks
Jim in Orlando FL
PS: I am working 6 days a week and two jobs to support my racing adiction.
Re: Oliver billet rods and probe pistons
Jim,
If you like NA high compression a stroker LT1 is usually a good way to go.
The Eagle rods you destroyed are the I beams are decently strong.... and closer to bullet proof once the rod bolts are TQed to spec.
A Eagle or Scat H Beam would be a cheaper alternative to a Oliver I beam.... And considering that they are about 1/3 the price it's the way to go. Eagle H Beams Power "Big Daddy" Dwayne Guthridge down the track in his Turbo Mustang on Drag Radials in the 7's so I don't think you are going to break them NA.
If you are doing a 383 now you could get 13:1 with flat tops, a zero decked block and a angle milled LT1 or LT4 head easy. That's only with a 51cc chamber, you could probably get them lower if someone really went to town angle milling a set of LT1 heads.
The flat top setup is actually better for flame travel and burn since there is not a dome in the way of the flame as it burns the fuel in the chamber. This results in less timing to get all the burn done and more HP.
What's the rest of your combo?
Bret
If you like NA high compression a stroker LT1 is usually a good way to go.
The Eagle rods you destroyed are the I beams are decently strong.... and closer to bullet proof once the rod bolts are TQed to spec.
A Eagle or Scat H Beam would be a cheaper alternative to a Oliver I beam.... And considering that they are about 1/3 the price it's the way to go. Eagle H Beams Power "Big Daddy" Dwayne Guthridge down the track in his Turbo Mustang on Drag Radials in the 7's so I don't think you are going to break them NA.
If you are doing a 383 now you could get 13:1 with flat tops, a zero decked block and a angle milled LT1 or LT4 head easy. That's only with a 51cc chamber, you could probably get them lower if someone really went to town angle milling a set of LT1 heads.
The flat top setup is actually better for flame travel and burn since there is not a dome in the way of the flame as it burns the fuel in the chamber. This results in less timing to get all the burn done and more HP.
What's the rest of your combo?
Bret
Re: Oliver billet rods and probe pistons
Lloyd did the heads and intake. The valves are Manley Severe Duty 2.055" x 1.6". So the cc's are probably around 56 to 58 but I am going to check that in the next two weeks.
SVO 42 pound injectors
Comp Solid Roller cam .630 lift on a 112 and duration is around 230's.
Scat Crank balanced within 1.4 grams (they did a lot of extra work) as well as all the rods pistons, rings etc.
8 qt oil pan,
HV pump
Turbo 400 built by Kenny Wells.
Transbrake, delay box.
1000 HP Drive Shaft
Sphon TQ arm
Moser Spooled rear with 4:56 gears
Full 8 pt cage
Lexan Except for back glass,
5 Gallon Fuel cell
First 383 put out 401 to the rear wheels.
I ran one half a$$ pass at 11.5 at 117 mph and had a 1.68 sixty foot and the car started swaying towards the guard rail so I let off to regain control and then had to feather the gas to get it accross the finish line because the 26" tires had me at 7500 RPMs!!
Jim
SVO 42 pound injectors
Comp Solid Roller cam .630 lift on a 112 and duration is around 230's.
Scat Crank balanced within 1.4 grams (they did a lot of extra work) as well as all the rods pistons, rings etc.
8 qt oil pan,
HV pump
Turbo 400 built by Kenny Wells.
Transbrake, delay box.
1000 HP Drive Shaft
Sphon TQ arm
Moser Spooled rear with 4:56 gears
Full 8 pt cage
Lexan Except for back glass,
5 Gallon Fuel cell
First 383 put out 401 to the rear wheels.
I ran one half a$$ pass at 11.5 at 117 mph and had a 1.68 sixty foot and the car started swaying towards the guard rail so I let off to regain control and then had to feather the gas to get it accross the finish line because the 26" tires had me at 7500 RPMs!!
Jim
Re: Oliver billet rods and probe pistons
First off I got your IM, but i am NOT an engine builder, lol. Listen to what Bret says foremost, thats what he does for a living 
But in my opinion, If you are going to stick with your current domed piston, the probes should be ok if you have the SRS series. If you do decide to switch to a flattop i like SRP stuff for the price.
If you want the added for sure security on your rods, then the H beams are the way to go as bret said. I have the Eagle H beams and they have worked out well for me so far. Personally i think the failure before was from assembly, not the rods themselves though. You could prolly get away with a 4340 I beam, but for the price difference you might as well do the h beam

But in my opinion, If you are going to stick with your current domed piston, the probes should be ok if you have the SRS series. If you do decide to switch to a flattop i like SRP stuff for the price.
If you want the added for sure security on your rods, then the H beams are the way to go as bret said. I have the Eagle H beams and they have worked out well for me so far. Personally i think the failure before was from assembly, not the rods themselves though. You could prolly get away with a 4340 I beam, but for the price difference you might as well do the h beam
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