A new IAC is what, 60 bucks?
If I take the car to the dealer, its what 70 bucks just to scan the car to tell me whats wrong with it?

The problem is the left O2 is reading lean(code 44)...and the car is running really rough. Its rough on startup, but gets really bad when warmed up...the weird thing is, one time it was running EXTREMELY rough and the SES light came on (code 44)...but then all the sudden the SES turned off and the car instantly calmed down and ran fine till I got home. WTF...I replaced both O2's with brand new ones, so I know its not the O2...but something CAUSING the LO2 to run lean.

Anyone ever had a problem like this?

 

Auto Zone will scan for free if that helps, then you can decide what you need to do.

 

I have a scanmaster and its showing code 44...but ive replaced both O2's and its still showing the same code. This is why im soo confused, cause its not the problem that its showing.

 

Exhaust leak in front of the O2's? Does the exhaust sound any different than usual?

 

Well thats what ive been thinking too. I hear clicking on both sides(pretty sure jes LT1 valves....but the passenger side is worse than drivers side...which doesnt make sense because its the Driver side O2 thats lean. And when theres an exhaust leak, it makes the O2 lean on THAT side.

I put my ear up to it and try to listen as much as I can, but its hard over the engine noise/exhaust. I also looked for black soot, and theres none on the top of the headers on drivers side....but a LITTLE bit that I think is just oil from my previous oil leak on pass. side.

Ive asked before but never got a response if theres a way to find exhaust leak using the scanmaster....

 

might be a dumb ? but did u reset the comp after putting in the new 02's?

 

Yup...i unplug the car everynight because of a WHOLE different problem. I installed a new ignition and it for some reason stays on and drains the battery.

 

More than likely IAC wont solve code 44. When I had code 44 my problem was the drivers header front slip tube was sucking air and the clamp that came with my MAC's wouldnt seal it. Bought a muffler clamp from the parts store and fixed my problem.

 

Would that be the clamp right behind the O2 on driver side? I have a clamp it looks like 2 bolts holding the Edlebrock shorties to the exhaust going to the Y pipe....

 

You can buy my stock TB off EBay it come with the Stock IAC and TPS sensor which worked perfectly on my car. I'm sure it will sell for less than $30. My name is Magic8s10.

 

Might want to try swapping the O2s around to see if the problem follows... though if they are both new sensors then you are probably ok there. And if you wanna get crazy then swap the injectors from one side to the other to see if the problem follows.

Sounds to me like you might just have a misfire. That would cause a rough idle and because one cylindar is essentially dead...all the raw oxygen that should have been burnt is now traveling down your exhaust to the O2 sensor. The sensor now believes that bank is running lean because of all the raw oxygen so the computer throws a lean code. Especially if you say its rough in open and closed loop. Generally during open loop or startup you dont experience the side effects of an exahust leak b/c the O2 sensors are not yet relaying info back to the computer to change fueling.

 

Ok thanks for that info...Ill try swapping the injectors when I get a chance..then ill go from there.

What else would cause a misfire? Opti new, Coil a few months old...

 

bad wire, bad plug.

 

Driver side wires are all brand new...never got to changing the passenger side cause they're more of a bitch...but those are still only a few months old. But im thinking i could have a bad plug...its prolly been a year since I did those. Maybe ill order some of those if the injector switch doesnt work.