Yes it's ok to remove one cap, (or all of them). If it's a stock main cap bolt then 77ft-lb is the torque spec with oil.

You could shine a flashlight down from the top of the motor, (where the oil pressure switch is). Might see the ball or plug that way without having to take off the oil pan.

Karl

 

I am running 4 bolt splayed programs main caps with studs and bolts. I am wondering how much the torque spec should be off from that. I will try the flashlight thing if it is visible from the top. (my engine is new on a stand BTW)

EDIT: doh! just remember this cap is in the rear.

 

does anybody have a pic of this ball? I just finished rebuilding the bottom end of my new motor and didn't remove, replace, or even see a "ball". Either that or im just being retarded and don't remember.

 

There are no surprises associated with this ball. It is merely a steel ball (think of a ball bearing) that measures .472" in diameter. To remove it when the engine is disassembled, tap it out from the top with a length of steel all-thread or some similar device. When the machine work is finished and the block is cleaned, and ready to reassemble, turn it upside down on the engine stand and locate the open-ended oil galley that is normally covered by the rear main cap. Drop the ball into that hole and stake it firmly into place with a brass drift punch. I believe that brass is the designated material of choice for this operation because it is softer than the steel ball and won't deform it.

That's the end of the process. If the ball was not removed prior to the machine work and that oil galley was not completely cleaned out there is a possibility that the oil can become contaminated with whatever material has settled into the galley during prior operation and/or the machining process.

 

Hmm I better pull my pan and main cap tomorrow. B/C I never removed a ball or installed one. The block was fully cleaned and tanked and the shop that did the machining installed the cam bearings but that was it. Some pics would really help thought if anybody has them. Not necessisarly of the ball but just the general area. Im trying to think but just cant imagine it.

 

 

hmm thats not good I don't like that picture. I might have a bad day tomorrow.

If mine is gone where can I get another one?

 

Well I confirmed 2 things today. 1: I do have the ball in place and 2: you can see it though the oil pressure sender hole.

 

Sweeet! good news.

 

If you have 3 rebuilds on the rod ends, I would be looking for a new set of rods.
Did you check the bearing clearances when assembling the engine(s)? Before you put it together again make sure to check the clearances - even if just by plastigauge. It will let you know if something is a little too tight.

 

One more thing, when you got the block back from the machine shop, did you wash the block with soap and water to get all the machining junk out? You will be amazed at the amount of crap that comes out of a freshly machined block - remember that the machine shop will hot tank or clean the block BEFORE the machining. They may not do so afterwards.

 

The rods have only been pressed on 1 set of pistons... but idk if you were talking to me or not. And yes all bearings were plastigauged and when I got the block back I asked if I should still clean it and they said they already did and it was ready to be assembled.

I just didn't remember seeing the ball and never even heard of it being 18 and this is my first rebuild that I actually did myself.

 

Thumbs up for doing-it-yourself.

 

Yep I loved it. I did it at school where Im going for my associates degree for now and will see where I go later. But I was an awesome experience and awesome to say I built it and somewhat blueprinted it all by myself... with my teacher looking over my shoulder. The only thing I didnt do myself was cam bearings and freeze plugs b/c my machine shop did it for an awesome price.

I hope it runs good. Its a 355 (.030 over) hypereutetic pistons, stock forged rods, stock crank turned .010, Im going to have my heads ported, and am running the cc503 cam with 1.6 nsa cc promags and 918 springs.

Its kinda funny everybody else was just rebuilding v6's and little honda 4bangers and I was building a badass lt1 and I hope can get me atleast a 11.99 slip. I think the motor will beable to do it, suspension is going to be my biggest issue

 

F-Yeah ,me too! Me too!

You need a good flashlight to get the light that far down.