1. Okay if my thinking is right if you use the drill priming tool then all that will do is prime the oil pump. There will be no oil or oil pressure in the 3 galleys till the LT1 drive stub or a SBC distributor is installed. That being said the drill tool does not really prime all bearing surfaces and lifters.
Is this correct?


2. Can any SBC distributor be used to prime the engine and all friction surfaces?


3. Can the starter be used to turn the assembled engine over without spark plugs to build pressure to lube all friction surfaces?

 

1. Incorrect. It will prime all gallerys. Your priming tool must have the collar that sits next to the cam for it to do this. Just using some sort of rod to spin the pump will not do the same thing.

2. Not unless you make it into the same tool you would use in 1. Not much point in doing that.

3. Better to use 1 than the starter.

 

Note that a big drill is needed to do this. Kills cheap Black & Decker 3/8 drills, that's for sure. Dewaldt 1/2 inch worked pretty good, but it's surprising how much power it takes to spin the pump.

 

A tool like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oil-P...QQcmdZViewItem

So if this is a drill killer I assume that there will be a good deal of resistance or work placed on the drill. I have a beef 1/2" drill but it does not turn very fast. What kind of RPM's are needed to reach max pressure?

 

A low RPM drill is actually best. The torque is high, so running the pump at a lower RPM means less power is required. As long as you are spinning it fast enough to see oil pressure, it's fine.

 

Cool, Thanks all

 

Yeah, or this http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...id=99&pcid=172 . Same thing.