LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Oil pump drive gear plastic broken.. and wear pattern. Opinions?

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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 10:30 PM
  #91  
Steve in Seattle's Avatar
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Originally Posted by cehan
Just for general information, the original More Performance piece (which I purchased before I realized how simple a fix it was) is made of steel, not aluminum
Yeah, I wouldn't use aluminum either... steel's stiffer and cheaper and won't fatigue under continous vibration like aluminuim will.
Old Feb 5, 2008 | 10:49 AM
  #92  
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You can add me to the list of failures. Stock volume/stock pressure melling select pump and mine has 2 cracks in it.
Old Feb 5, 2008 | 11:54 AM
  #93  
Kevin Blown 95 TA's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Dave1980
I was talking about jb-weld earlier on in this thread. How well that stuff holds up under those conditions was the question in my mind.
JB Weld holds up just fine. I used it inside an exhaust port of a Harley head once and it was still there 15 years later when I tore it down. I had used it to smooth over a pounded out exhaust valve seat during a time when I couldn't afford to have it fixed correctly. That stuff is amazing and I think it's a good idea to reinforce the plastic piece with it in the pockets as long as the piece is completely clean and free of grease when it is applied.
Old Feb 5, 2008 | 01:05 PM
  #94  
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Hey Javier any update on how your engine is doing with this?
Old Mar 17, 2008 | 08:02 PM
  #95  
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From: stuart fl
i had the same problem. i just pulled my intake to reseal due to oil burning, found the housing on mine to be slightly cracked, i probably over tightened it. So i used a piece of stainless, was a bich to shape, but but it was the hardest material i could find. It worked perfect, used a water cuter to etch the shape of the housing so it wont shift or move. just make sure you drill holes for the oil to get to the bearing and the two cavites that are cut out are for strength. (my dad is a engineer and told me this) so i woudnt fill them when you indent the shape of the top into your metal it will be solid.
Old Apr 30, 2008 | 07:35 PM
  #96  
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All I can say is keep your eyes open.
Old Apr 30, 2008 | 07:59 PM
  #97  
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From: Kantuckee Yo'
I cracked one of these too. I replaced it with a uncracked used drive assembly. I also red loc-tited the bolt and torqued it to GM spec. Although the spec seems kinda low I assume the red loc-tite will do the trick. Damn sure this thing wont last if you over torque it.
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 12:07 PM
  #98  
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Anyone ever started selling an upgraded part for this?
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 12:29 PM
  #99  
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I used a MSD oil pump drive.
Replaced the gear.
Modified the intake.
Got a sbc bracket.
Bam expensive fix!
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 02:14 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by rickreeves1
Anyone ever started selling an upgraded part for this?
I got them, or can have them in a couple of weeks. $150 shipped.
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 04:12 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by Shon Herron
I got them, or can have them in a couple of weeks. $150 shipped.
I have made me a bracket to go on top of the pump drive also. I used 1/4 bar and shaped it to mimic the top of the oil drive plastic. I also drilled a hole to allow oil to fall into bearing area. Out of curiosity, what is different about what your talking about Shon?

My main concern was that my bracket does not shift to one side after being bolted down. It would then serve no purpose.
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 04:45 PM
  #102  
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The oil pump drive I have made is a complete new unit.


Last edited by Shon Herron; Feb 14, 2009 at 04:51 PM.
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 09:12 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by Shon Herron
The oil pump drive I have made is a complete new unit.

Looks sweet, are you going to sell them? If you are, how much???
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 09:26 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
Looks sweet, are you going to sell them? If you are, how much???
Originally Posted by Shon Herron
I got them, or can have them in a couple of weeks. $150 shipped.
I am taking pre-orders.....
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 07:05 AM
  #105  
Don 97 SS's Avatar
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Shon, that really looks like a nice mod that would address the problem, but is that billet piece really necessary? I mean I would think the simplier MORE plate, like I have, would get the job done as well and at a lower cost. Just asking.



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