Javier97Z28

I plan to get rid of the HV pump when I put in a K-member hopefully later this year.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

Whose the one with the cracked oil pump drive then? It doesn't need to be squished, it just needs to not come out.

Javier97Z28

My point is... 13 ft/lbs isn't alot...

If you're not torquing it down you have no idea how much torque you're putting down on it compared to me...

For all we know you could be tightening it down more, just lucky it hasn't cracked?

truedualws6

When I pulled the intake a couple of days ago I checked the oil pump drive
and the bolt was loose. The car only has about 5k miles since I torqued the
bolt to 13 ft-lbs. My plastic was not broken though. I just cleaned the bolt
and the hole really good with acetone, used some blue thread locker on the
bolt and torqued it back to 13 ft-lbs.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

I know it's not a lot, and maybe that isn't the real problem that's cracking the POS. But I still say you don't need to torque it very tight. Just clean the hole with acetone like the other guy said and put some locktite in there and snug the bolt down and believe me, it works. I can make one of those metal retainers in the machine shop at work if I want, but I've never needed to. It's a bad design, no doubt about it - I won't argue that point.

mdacton

I used my sdtock one before.....I never tqed it. I cranked down on it and it never broke. I still have it.

Probly a shaft or something binding up, I would ditch that thing asap. Its just trouble. The high volume pump will kill it

mdenz3

Hmmm

I'm looking my old one here and I could probably build an aluminum version without too much hassle.

Shon Herron

Can someone send me pix/links to the MORE unit?
we might could possibly make either the cap or a whole unit, got a guy looking at it now...

Don 97 SS

Years ago, I recall talking with Mike at the MORE shop when I was buying parts and getting advice on a rebuild. I worked with him on several projects. He said he saw a number of those phenolic pump drive components fail and toast an engine. That was enough to convince me I needed one of his little billet 'covers'. He handed me one and didn't even charge me for it. I don't think it cost him much to have them made as it is a very simple design. I wish I had a pic of it.

Javier97Z28

Ditch what?

Dunno why it would be binding.. ARP shaft, standard Melling pump.. pretty common stuff.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

Damn, this isn't rocket science! If you want to support the plastic stub housing, just cut a little piece of metal to fit over it, screw it down with some threadlocker (try not to smash it), and call it a day. Otherwise, go out and machine an aluminum distributor shaft housing for it or something.

FASTFATBOY

Well if it was NOT rocket science, the piece you want to put OVER the top will only stop it from jumping out of the hole AFTER it breaks. We are trying to support it on the sides so it wont break in the first place.

David

Kevin Blown 95 TA

Right david - you want me to make you one???

1racerdude

A while back I had thought of making a box full and selling them.
It would become a regular maintenance item like a timing chain on a rebuild.
If ya stop it from jumping out(if it breaks) with a plate on top then it could spin and not turn the pump right and wear and get cocked and wear the gear quickly.
Cracking at the bolt hole is the easiest place for it to break. It will find the next weakest point on the little arm after that if it has enough load and spin anyway. If the arm breaks at the housing it could go down???? and spin anyway. Again I don't know how much load it will take to mess it completely up,does any body?
Just better not to take the chance on a $10,000+ engine. Many do- not thinking about it and say it's the pump or something else that broke it, after they toast an engine.
The damn thing is plastic,guys.

Javier97Z28

You sound really upset about this thread?

This a valid concern I'd rather not guess at fixing.. it's not like you pull the intake every oil change to check. Granted it's easy enough to do but still.