LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Oil Pressure dropping at WOT

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Old Apr 13, 2004 | 03:06 AM
  #1  
AlexsZ's Avatar
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Oil Pressure dropping at WOT

Just noticed the other day, when playing around on a backroad that when I went to WOT, my oil pressure is around 45-50ish...but assoon as I get to ~5100rpms, its drops to ~30-35psi then goes back up around 5800rpms.

If I roll into it and let the rpms climb, it stays higher around the 45-50ish mark.

Any ideas as to why?

I do know that around 5200 rpms, my tranny starts to slip..sometimes worse than others...its currently getting rebuilt this week. Could that have something to do with it? Or just a bad/going out oil pump? (yes, its the stock one)

Thanks
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 08:08 PM
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Search for cavitation.
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 09:30 PM
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You need a windrage tray and a higher pressure spring (the "white" one). The tray should minimize the loss, and with that spring, you shouldn't ever go below 50 at WOT. Talk to InjectedSS about this problem, he'll tell you all about it.

Jason
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 09:34 PM
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Now i'm just making sure this is right. At idle my pressure is relatively low I think it is around 20
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 10:05 PM
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Originally posted by speed76demon
Now i'm just making sure this is right. At idle my pressure is relatively low I think it is around 20
That doesn't sound unusual.

The above information is correct, FYI.

Carson
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 10:47 PM
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Originally posted by mebanditws6
You need a windrage tray and a higher pressure spring (the "white" one). The tray should minimize the loss, and with that spring, you shouldn't ever go below 50 at WOT. Talk to InjectedSS about this problem, he'll tell you all about it.

Jason
damn..searched thru the cavitation results and boy, there are some issues with this

Also, i didnt realize how much work it was removing the stock oil pan
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 10:52 PM
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Originally posted by AlexsZ
damn..searched thru the cavitation results and boy, there are some issues with this

Also, i didnt realize how much work it was removing the stock oil pan
Yea, basically just pull the motor It's not that bad after you've done it a few times. And, told ya so on cavitation
Old Apr 14, 2004 | 11:28 AM
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SOme 93-95 cars have a high rpm oiling problem. the fix is the oil pan. But on those cars (like mine ) it drops at 4K and stay there till redline, at about 35-50 psi.

Since your drops at 5.1K and back up at 5.8K, i have no idea. I have heard that cars that had a crap fix on the IM will get rtv down intot he pump screen and have sporadic high rpm oil readings.

If you have over 100K and are gonna keep the car for a while, pull it out. Make it a hoss
Old Apr 14, 2004 | 04:44 PM
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Originally posted by schpenxel
Yea, basically just pull the motor It's not that bad after you've done it a few times. And, told ya so on cavitation
oh, just the motor.....piece of caakkee!!!

Not really!!

Yea yea...you told me so, eh?
Old Apr 14, 2004 | 04:48 PM
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Originally posted by ChickenScreamer94
SOme 93-95 cars have a high rpm oiling problem. the fix is the oil pan. But on those cars (like mine ) it drops at 4K and stay there till redline, at about 35-50 psi.

Since your drops at 5.1K and back up at 5.8K, i have no idea. I have heard that cars that had a crap fix on the IM will get rtv down intot he pump screen and have sporadic high rpm oil readings.

If you have over 100K and are gonna keep the car for a while, pull it out. Make it a hoss
Well, it might go on to redline, since my tranny was screwed up, i never got to stay on it long...this weekend, i'm going to get it back and drive it around and see exactly how it acts...maybe with a good tranny it behaves differently I know I've lost some oil thru my front main seal (need to redo it) so i'm thinking maybe i've neglected to where i'm now low on oil. gonna top it off and see what happens *crosses fingers*

But at least i know how ot solve it if not, the search yeilded many results that i wasnt aware of! I'm sure I'll be PM'ing some of you guys here soon
Old Apr 14, 2004 | 05:26 PM
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Originally posted by AlexsZ
oh, just the motor.....piece of caakkee!!!

Not really!!

Yea yea...you told me so, eh?
hehe, I can do it in like 4 hours or less now, much faster with air tools. It's not that bad at all after the first time, and after you get rid of all the emissions bs.

Carson
Old Apr 14, 2004 | 05:32 PM
  #12  
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Originally posted by schpenxel
hehe, I can do it in like 4 hours or less now, much faster with air tools. It's not that bad at all after the first time, and after you get rid of all the emissions bs.

Carson
well, lucky me..i have no emissions crap. I cant say I've ever pulled the motor or even come close, I did some searching and apparentlythere isnt a write up about it anywhere.

So far, i may not have to go that far...buuutttt *shrugs*

dammit, if its not one worry, its another
Old Apr 14, 2004 | 06:01 PM
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It's really not that bad to do. Hardest part for me was getting the dang headers off. I later realized I could just unbolt the Ypipe and pull it out with the headers still on (although this might not be the case, depends on ur headers i think). Besides that, I usually just pull the radiator, accessory bracket, wiring harness, bellhousing bolts and motor mounts. I had the intake off both times i did it so i hooked a chain to the holes on the heads for the intake, pulled it right out. It helps to unbolt the motor mount from the block on both sides instead of just taking that center bolt off. Also, take off the oil filter, mine got caught and really was a pain last time. Hmm, thats really about it...have fun, PM me if u need any help.

Carson

Edit: If you swapped your heads/cam yourself, it'll be cake. You'll probably wonder why you didnt just pull it to change those

Last edited by schpenxel; Apr 14, 2004 at 06:04 PM.
Old Apr 15, 2004 | 02:12 AM
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hmm, doesnt seem THAT bad...doing the heads/cam wasnt nearly as bad as I thought it was. It was justa lot of junk/periphials that had to be removed and unbolted.

I should get my car back this weekend from the tranny shop, I'm going to do the simple things first....checking oil level, replacing filter and topping off the oil. Driving it....if that doesnt work, then I'll begine planning to put it in the air...I reckon since I'll be doing this much, might as well throw some Lunati parts into the rotating assembly...hmm, 3-8-3 to be more specific

Thanks for the insight, I'm SURE you'll hear from me more on this matter...
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