Oil Pressure dropping at WOT
Oil Pressure dropping at WOT
Just noticed the other day, when playing around on a backroad that when I went to WOT, my oil pressure is around 45-50ish...but assoon as I get to ~5100rpms, its drops to ~30-35psi then goes back up around 5800rpms.
If I roll into it and let the rpms climb, it stays higher around the 45-50ish mark.
Any ideas as to why?
I do know that around 5200 rpms, my tranny starts to slip..sometimes worse than others...its currently getting rebuilt this week. Could that have something to do with it? Or just a bad/going out oil pump? (yes, its the stock one)
Thanks
If I roll into it and let the rpms climb, it stays higher around the 45-50ish mark.
Any ideas as to why?
I do know that around 5200 rpms, my tranny starts to slip..sometimes worse than others...its currently getting rebuilt this week. Could that have something to do with it? Or just a bad/going out oil pump? (yes, its the stock one)
Thanks
You need a windrage tray and a higher pressure spring (the "white" one). The tray should minimize the loss, and with that spring, you shouldn't ever go below 50 at WOT. Talk to InjectedSS about this problem, he'll tell you all about it.
Jason
Jason
Originally posted by speed76demon
Now i'm just making sure this is right. At idle my pressure is relatively low I think it is around 20
Now i'm just making sure this is right. At idle my pressure is relatively low I think it is around 20
The above information is correct, FYI.
Carson
Originally posted by mebanditws6
You need a windrage tray and a higher pressure spring (the "white" one). The tray should minimize the loss, and with that spring, you shouldn't ever go below 50 at WOT. Talk to InjectedSS about this problem, he'll tell you all about it.
Jason
You need a windrage tray and a higher pressure spring (the "white" one). The tray should minimize the loss, and with that spring, you shouldn't ever go below 50 at WOT. Talk to InjectedSS about this problem, he'll tell you all about it.
Jason

Also, i didnt realize how much work it was removing the stock oil pan
Originally posted by AlexsZ
damn..searched thru the cavitation results and boy, there are some issues with this
Also, i didnt realize how much work it was removing the stock oil pan
damn..searched thru the cavitation results and boy, there are some issues with this

Also, i didnt realize how much work it was removing the stock oil pan
It's not that bad after you've done it a few times. And, told ya so on cavitation
SOme 93-95 cars have a high rpm oiling problem. the fix is the oil pan. But on those cars (like mine
) it drops at 4K and stay there till redline, at about 35-50 psi.
Since your drops at 5.1K and back up at 5.8K, i have no idea. I have heard that cars that had a crap fix on the IM will get rtv down intot he pump screen and have sporadic high rpm oil readings.
If you have over 100K and are gonna keep the car for a while, pull it out. Make it a hoss
) it drops at 4K and stay there till redline, at about 35-50 psi. Since your drops at 5.1K and back up at 5.8K, i have no idea. I have heard that cars that had a crap fix on the IM will get rtv down intot he pump screen and have sporadic high rpm oil readings.
If you have over 100K and are gonna keep the car for a while, pull it out. Make it a hoss
Originally posted by schpenxel
Yea, basically just pull the motor
It's not that bad after you've done it a few times. And, told ya so on cavitation
Yea, basically just pull the motor
It's not that bad after you've done it a few times. And, told ya so on cavitation
Not really!!

Yea yea...you told me so, eh?
Originally posted by ChickenScreamer94
SOme 93-95 cars have a high rpm oiling problem. the fix is the oil pan. But on those cars (like mine
) it drops at 4K and stay there till redline, at about 35-50 psi.
Since your drops at 5.1K and back up at 5.8K, i have no idea. I have heard that cars that had a crap fix on the IM will get rtv down intot he pump screen and have sporadic high rpm oil readings.
If you have over 100K and are gonna keep the car for a while, pull it out. Make it a hoss
SOme 93-95 cars have a high rpm oiling problem. the fix is the oil pan. But on those cars (like mine
) it drops at 4K and stay there till redline, at about 35-50 psi. Since your drops at 5.1K and back up at 5.8K, i have no idea. I have heard that cars that had a crap fix on the IM will get rtv down intot he pump screen and have sporadic high rpm oil readings.
If you have over 100K and are gonna keep the car for a while, pull it out. Make it a hoss
I know I've lost some oil thru my front main seal (need to redo it) so i'm thinking maybe i've neglected to where i'm now low on oil. gonna top it off and see what happens *crosses fingers*But at least i know how ot solve it if not, the search yeilded many results that i wasnt aware of! I'm sure I'll be PM'ing some of you guys here soon
Originally posted by AlexsZ
oh, just the motor.....piece of caakkee!!!
Not really!!
Yea yea...you told me so, eh?
oh, just the motor.....piece of caakkee!!!
Not really!!

Yea yea...you told me so, eh?
Carson
Originally posted by schpenxel
hehe, I can do it in like 4 hours or less now, much faster with air tools. It's not that bad at all after the first time, and after you get rid of all the emissions bs.
Carson
hehe, I can do it in like 4 hours or less now, much faster with air tools. It's not that bad at all after the first time, and after you get rid of all the emissions bs.
Carson
So far, i may not have to go that far...buuutttt *shrugs*
dammit, if its not one worry, its another
It's really not that bad to do. Hardest part for me was getting the dang headers off. I later realized I could just unbolt the Ypipe and pull it out with the headers still on (although this might not be the case, depends on ur headers i think). Besides that, I usually just pull the radiator, accessory bracket, wiring harness, bellhousing bolts and motor mounts. I had the intake off both times i did it so i hooked a chain to the holes on the heads for the intake, pulled it right out. It helps to unbolt the motor mount from the block on both sides instead of just taking that center bolt off. Also, take off the oil filter, mine got caught and really was a pain last time. Hmm, thats really about it...have fun, PM me if u need any help.
Carson
Edit: If you swapped your heads/cam yourself, it'll be cake. You'll probably wonder why you didnt just pull it to change those
Carson
Edit: If you swapped your heads/cam yourself, it'll be cake. You'll probably wonder why you didnt just pull it to change those
Last edited by schpenxel; Apr 14, 2004 at 06:04 PM.
hmm, doesnt seem THAT bad...doing the heads/cam wasnt nearly as bad as I thought it was. It was justa lot of junk/periphials that had to be removed and unbolted.
I should get my car back this weekend from the tranny shop, I'm going to do the simple things first....checking oil level, replacing filter and topping off the oil. Driving it....if that doesnt work, then I'll begine planning to put it in the air...I reckon since I'll be doing this much, might as well throw some Lunati parts into the rotating assembly...hmm, 3-8-3 to be more specific
Thanks for the insight, I'm SURE you'll hear from me more on this matter...
I should get my car back this weekend from the tranny shop, I'm going to do the simple things first....checking oil level, replacing filter and topping off the oil. Driving it....if that doesnt work, then I'll begine planning to put it in the air...I reckon since I'll be doing this much, might as well throw some Lunati parts into the rotating assembly...hmm, 3-8-3 to be more specific

Thanks for the insight, I'm SURE you'll hear from me more on this matter...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



