I punctured my oil pan last night (doh) and so now i assuming im going to have a few more long hours in the garage. What do i need to do to replace my oil pan in my 95 m6? What do i need other than the pan and the gasket? Thanks

 

You will also need a timing cover gasket and water pump gasket. And while your there you might as well do the w/p, opti, and crank seals that are in the timing cover. and if your up to it i'd do the rear main and clutch(if needed) as well.(if you decide to pull the tranny) I don't think you will have to though to pull the pan. just take off the inspection cover.

also make sure to remove your oil level sensor before you drop the pan down or you'll need a new one of those too.

 

I don't think you need to remove the timing cover to replace the pan
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...oil+pan+gasket

 

I have an oil pan and a timing cover. PM me if interested. I will accept any reasonable offer.

 

There's a number of "how to" write ups for you to look at if you do a search, but all you need is a gasket and I would get a new one. I did it once reusing the old gasket and it leaked at the rear main seal adapter

 

I actually was looking at the repair guide for my car on Autozone.com and it says i just have to jack the motor up and pull the pan. Hopefully this works. I did a search and didnt find any writeups.

 

Any tips on getting to the bolts on the drivers side? There are two pipes going back from the radiator that are in the way. Are these easy to remove? Also how do you unclip the oil level sensor? Mine doesnt seem to want to move and i don't want to break it.

 

yeah my bad, i was thinking backwards. you have to drop the pan down to do the t/c.

 

When I did mine I made up a rig that I bolted across the shock towers and used some chain bolted to the intake manifold bolts to hoist the engine as high as it would go (the trans vent tube finally contacted the trans tunnel, this is a 6 speed). I then had to drop the K-member about two inches before the oil pan would clear. Dropping the K-member that much also required unbolting the struts at the lower end, disconnecting the steering shaft and removing the sway bar. A lot of work, but I guess it builds character

 

Its not hard to take off, use an engine hoist to lift the engine, remove the motor mount bolts from the engine block, and the frame, that long one that goes through the middle is a bitch to put back in with old mounts. Jack up the motor a few inches, remove the pan, put on new gasket, and reassemble. The wire on oil level sensor comes right off, you just need to unclip it.

 

So you were able to remove your pan without dropping the K member at all? I was hoping i wouldnt have to touch the K-memeber. I already undid the mount bolts going into the block, but i will have to get the other bolts tommorow. You think it is okay to jack the motor from the harmonic balancer?

 

It's anyone's guess, but that's a lot of weight to be putting on the front of the crank; I wouldn't do it. I would also loosen the trans mount bolt.

 

where is the trans mount bolt? Also when i am jacking up the motor, how do i know when the tranny will hit the trans tunnel?

Also, there are three bolts on each side for the K member correct? If i do have to drop the K member, can i just drop the threads an inch or two?

Finally, i tried removing the pan today, and it was very loose, but there is a thin sheet of metal between the pan and the tranny that is preventing the back end of the pan from coming down all the way. Can i just unbolt this?

Thanks for the help guys

 

The thin metal is the inspection plate, it comes right off with an 8, or 10mm socket, i cant remember which. you can lower the kmember, by loosening the bolts, but you will need to remove the steering shaft from the rack, its easy, just 1 bolt.

 

The trans mount bolt is in the middle of the trans support cross member at the rear of the transmission.

You will know when it is hitting the tunnel because as you raise the motor, keep checking for clearance by feeling with your hands. The first place it will contact is at the passenger side on the forward part of the trans at the trans vent tube.

I can't say how much you will have to drop your K-member, but I had to drop mine 2-1/2" on each side, which resulted in a total clearance of about 4 inches between the middle of the K-member and the bottom of the pan. Of course you can't drop it this much by just loosening the bolts, they have to be removed. I measured it with a tape for future reference, but I have a Canton 242-T pan, so it might be a little different with a stock pan.